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Thread: Engine with block rot question

  1. #11
    Member Shuttleman's Avatar
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    In these photo you see corrosion making its way thru the crankcase. In the second shows after the corrosion has been removed. Oil passage were not affected so this engine could be welded on the to of the valley. It is for sale but only as an assembly (the whole engine with fuel components, accessories: alt. A/C etc... Make an offer. IMG_1776.jpgIMG_0055.jpgIMG_0053.jpg

  2. #12
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    Interesting, would like to see pictures of the repair. Still searching for the ones I have! I have two engines coming over the winter with the same problem to fix (block changes) will be interesting to see if these are the same.
    Chris
    Chris Williams #15768 Back on the road after 14 years. Ex#4584
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  3. #13
    Sometimes Owner louielouie2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    I can weld a square piece of aluminum in the valley to seal the leak.
    I know Farrar Hudkins had to do this a couple of times, but the oil kept finding new ways to escape. Farrar is in the process of an engine swap now. Once valley rot has set in with the PRV, there's really no saving the engine; only ways to postpone the inevitable.
    Louie Golden

  4. #14
    Senior Member Drive Stainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by louielouie2000 View Post
    I know Farrar Hudkins had to do this a couple of times, but the oil kept finding new ways to escape. Farrar is in the process of an engine swap now. Once valley rot has set in with the PRV, there's really no saving the engine; only ways to postpone the inevitable.
    I am curious about what is happening here. The "block rot" holes that I have seen have occurred in the bottom of the deep, ~3/4"x3/4" square-shaped holes. The solution seems straightforward: cap the holes with some small squares of aluminum. But both you and Chris Williams explain that the oil will find a new place to leak from, as if the oil could blow through the cast aluminum like a stream of water through tissue paper.

    Nevertheless, I am very confident that I could make this repair based on my experience TIG welding aluminum.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    I am curious about what is happening here. The "block rot" holes that I have seen have occurred in the bottom of the deep, ~3/4"x3/4" square-shaped holes. The solution seems straightforward: cap the holes with some small squares of aluminum. But both you and Chris Williams explain that the oil will find a new place to leak from, as if the oil could blow through the cast aluminum like a stream of water through tissue paper.

    Nevertheless, I am very confident that I could make this repair based on my experience TIG welding aluminum.
    I don't think many people have tried to TIG weld a block for their fix. I'm betting that would work.
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  6. #16
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Farrar was just filling the hole with epoxy. It works for a while (depending on how much you drive the car) but the epoxy will just turn into mush or simply pop out.

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  7. #17
    Member Shuttleman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I don't think many people have tried to TIG weld a block for their fix. I'm betting that would work.
    Yes many people have.

  8. #18
    Member Shuttleman's Avatar
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    welded_block.jpg
    This is just one example from DMCH. The problem it that people do not remove ALL the corrosion. It has to be removed. It may go thru an oil valley but their is no point if you'r turning a blind eye on it. For sure it will go thru later if it's there already. You have to remove it all and make a good inspection of the wall thickness. Also corrosion never stop so another reason to remove it. Even if it's thru the oil passages there is a way to repair it but most owner are not ready to pay the price for it.
    Last edited by Shuttleman; 10-26-2016 at 11:13 PM.

  9. #19
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    I am curious about what is happening here. The "block rot" holes that I have seen have occurred in the bottom of the deep, ~3/4"x3/4" square-shaped holes. The solution seems straightforward: cap the holes with some small squares of aluminum. But both you and Chris Williams explain that the oil will find a new place to leak from, as if the oil could blow through the cast aluminum like a stream of water through tissue paper.

    Nevertheless, I am very confident that I could make this repair based on my experience TIG welding aluminum.
    I was unfortunate (or fortunate depending on point of view) to have one of the first engines to have this issue about 10 years ago and it was then a rather un-known. I have attached a couple of pictures of the repair I had done. The plates were TIG welded (not by me but a specialist) after the block was cleaned as well as it could be. Then coated with Glyptal paint as I have done on many engine re-builds since.
    Unfortunately whilst the weld worked and held the leak just found the next weakest point through one of the 'ribs' so I just changed out the block. I have found locally an 'old school' engineering company that specialises in repairing ally components so when I get my hands on another block that's go the same issues (I have two to do this winter) we are going to have another look at repairing them. I'm sure however these can be repaired as it seems DMCH are doing and you think you can, I just wonder if it's dependant on how bad the block rot is to start with?
    Pic 3.jpgPic 4.jpg
    Chris Williams #15768 Back on the road after 14 years. Ex#4584
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  10. #20
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    block4.jpg
    Another picture with rot in an unusual place (not one I have done, snatched picture from somewhere) I have been investigating this for some time and am convinced TIG welding is the best option.
    Chris
    Chris Williams #15768 Back on the road after 14 years. Ex#4584
    Worldwide DeLorean Owners Club: www.deloreans.co.uk Full colour DeLorean magazine shipped worldwide.
    DeLorean Essential Buyers Guide: http://deloreans.co.uk/product/delor...-buyers-guide/

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