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Thread: BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

  1. #261
    Senior Member cpistocco's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2013

    Location:  Cranston, RI

    Posts:    371

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    Red w/ faceted jewel:
    031-0431-300
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...khUkHr7Q%3d%3d
    or
    http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-0...rfnonsku=false


    Green w/ faceted jewel:
    031-0432-300
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...khUkHr7Q%3d%3d


    Bulb holder base:
    031-3101-01-101
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hH8QDfBw%3d%3d
    or
    http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-3...rew/dp/05B3024




    You should also be able to search those same PN's and look for other cheaper sources, those were just the quick ones I found that had them in stock.
    Thank You-
    I did not realize that the assemblies had to be purchased in two pieces (4 pieces in total), That is where I was going wrong,
    Much appreciated.
    -Charlie

  2. #262
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,468

    My VIN:    6125

    Quote Originally Posted by "What The Flux?" View Post
    Hi Mark,

    Great detailed info as always! I am grateful for your explanation. That kinda makes sense with what I had observed from various reference images and footage from OUTATIME. I could see that the three holes per heat sinks were shifted between the final holes that we see today. I think there are a few miscellaneous holes also, but don't think it would be fair to trouble you for those.

    I am curious to know if you are able to kindly clarify the spacing of the two sets of triangularly spaced holes however. I have noticed that they are quite distinctive to the A car and that they are slightly different to each other. Again, I wouldn't ask you to release anything that is sensitive or of shared intellectual property, but if you are able to calrify those hole positions, that would be really awesome!

    Just one last, tiny question if I may?... How many locator pins are there on the lower (side) of the yellow reactor hatch lid? I have calculated from your image that there might be three evenly spaced?
    I can check the model for more info on the triangular spaced holes for the CO2 nozzle mounting. I shared these images a while ago with another member via email that includes the hole spacing on the RH side.

    The locations on the hole positions are pretty much the highest level of detail you can get though on the vents. For it to really even matter you'd first have to have the shape of each plate correct, and then the individual plates located correctly in space relative to one another. Having an accurate engine cover is also important so you can accurately locate the whole vent assembles relative to the rest of the car.

    Otherwise you'll just have a really accurate hole pattern on inaccurate parts.




    In regards to the nuclear reactor hatch, yes there are three locking pins on the cap that line up with three corresponding notches in the core. Spacing is an even 120 degrees
    Last edited by Mark D; 03-09-2017 at 11:39 AM.

  3. #263
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    I can check the model for more info on the triangular spaced holes for the CO2 nozzle mounting. I shared these images a while ago with another member via email that includes the hole spacing on the RH side.

    The locations on the hole positions are pretty much the highest level of detail you can get though on the vents. For it to really even matter you'd first have to have the shape of each plate correct, and then the individual plates located correctly in space relative to one another. Having an accurate engine cover is also important so you can accurately locate the whole vent assembles relative to the rest of the car.

    Otherwise you'll just have a really accurate hole pattern on inaccurate parts.




    In regards to the nuclear reactor hatch, yes there are three locking pins on the cap that line up with three corresponding notches in the core. Spacing is an even 120 degrees
    Wow! You never cease to impress Mark! Thank you very much, I appreciate that.

    That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. If you do have the time or the inclination to provide the same for the LH side, that would be epic. Again, no worries if it's not possible though, I am grateful for what you have provided already.

    I completely understand about the accuate vent panels and engine cover, I'm hoping to gradually improve the accuracy as I go along and learn new info.

    Thanks also for the confirmation of the locking pins.

    Have a great day!

  4. #264
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    My VIN:    6125

    It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.

  5. #265
    Senior Member cpistocco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by minispeedstar View Post

    I'm down to my last 3 pairs but have more on the way, if you've not found any after a while let me know could prob hook u up.
    Very Kind of you Minispeedstar.... But I am going to try my best to find them on my own. I found some cheap on a site called "REXEL" ($7.00 apiece)
    Thanks
    Charlie

  6. #266
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Posts:    27

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.
    Incredibly helpful! Thank you Mark.

    Would it happen to be on the computer (laptop) that we saw in the OUTATIME documentary?

    Just another quick question (sorry to be so inquisitive!), is the rear edge of the engine cover curved to match the body work of the car, or is it straight and sits underneath the rear body panel?

    Thanks!

  7. #267
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

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    Quote Originally Posted by "What The Flux?" View Post
    Incredibly helpful! Thank you Mark.

    Would it happen to be on the computer (laptop) that we saw in the OUTATIME documentary?

    Just another quick question (sorry to be so inquisitive!), is the rear edge of the engine cover curved to match the body work of the car, or is it straight and sits underneath the rear body panel?

    Thanks!
    I've finally been able to upgrade to a more decent desktop machine at home to run Catia V5 which is the program all of the parts are designed in. I had a laptop during the restoration so I could work on the go during my trips out to California. Most 3D modeling programs are pretty demanding so it's nice to finally have a graphics card that is designed with modeling programs in mind.

    The rear of the engine cover is slightly curved to match the curvature of the fascia. The bottom plates for the bolt on lower vent sections are also angled for the same reason. This also requires three vertical plates of the lower vent section to be slightly different.

    I was describing in another post how that lower section was modified by the tram garage after production so the engine cover could be raised and lowered without removing the lower half of the vents. For the restoration undoing that modification meant having to measure what we left of the original vent bottoms and redesigning new parts back to the original state. All things considered it was one of the more challenging designs to perfect since the vents are such an important part of the time machine. It took a few weeks of collaborating back and forth with Joe and some extended measuring sessions with the real parts in hand.


  8. #268
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    I've finally been able to upgrade to a more decent desktop machine at home to run Catia V5 which is the program all of the parts are designed in. I had a laptop during the restoration so I could work on the go during my trips out to California. Most 3D modeling programs are pretty demanding so it's nice to finally have a graphics card that is designed with modeling programs in mind.

    The rear of the engine cover is slightly curved to match the curvature of the fascia. The bottom plates for the bolt on lower vent sections are also angled for the same reason. This also requires three vertical plates of the lower vent section to be slightly different.

    I was describing in another post how that lower section was modified by the tram garage after production so the engine cover could be raised and lowered without removing the lower half of the vents. For the restoration undoing that modification meant having to measure what we left of the original vent bottoms and redesigning new parts back to the original state. All things considered it was one of the more challenging designs to perfect since the vents are such an important part of the time machine. It took a few weeks of collaborating back and forth with Joe and some extended measuring sessions with the real parts in hand.
    I know only too well of the hardware demands of 3D software! Especially as the newer generation renderers are only GPU and sometimes only an NVIDIA GPU?! I noticed you taking real measurements of the parts on a portable laptop which looked like a pretty cool and convenient setup.

    Every time I read your posts on here, I learn something new and fascinating! I had no idea that the bottom most plates of the rear vents were angled like that to follow the profile of the rear lights?! It makes sense of course when you think about it. Also makes sense that the vertical plates would each have to be slightly different to allow for the bottom plate(s).

    Great that you restoration guys went to so much trouble to make them authentic to 1985. Legendary work!

  9. #269
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    Location:  Jamul, CA

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    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    Lots of similar available.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PHAO...item3f767a2256

    Cheers
    Steven
    I actually won it and for cheap too. However, it came in yesterday and it's kinda small- like a couple centimeters too small. The hole in the faceplate is 7cm, the gauge is 6.5 across the bezel. It looks accurate but obviously is not.

  10. #270
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    The meter panel that fits in the glove box is cut from 1/8" thick aluminum 6061 sheet and is flat with no bend at the bottom (as someone else posted earlier)

    The overall dimensions are 15 29/32 x 4 25/32. Most of the fabricated parts on the car have 'make sense' dimensions to the whole or half inch, but the meter panel is more oddly shaped for whatever reason. Either the guy who made the part was trying to hit an exact measurement to match the glove box, or he was just a little care free with his cut lines.

    The top edge of the aluminum plate is also notched out for clearance to the glove box latch mechanism. Without the notch the plate will not fit correctly in the glove box.

    This photo I posted a few posts back shows the upper profile of the plate.


    This is about as detailed as I can get with dimensions.
    Do you know what size the round gauges are? I got one off eBay - a Phaostron that's 2.5 inches across the bezel, but obviously too small as the holes in the faceplate are 7cm that I got from Bruce, and that's the size in the sketch on here as well.

    There's one more on eBay, but it's only 2 inches in diameter.


    Greg

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