BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

[Mark D]

Thanks for all the great info Mark! Would you able to confirm the various locations and dimensions of the Zero can enclosures on the car?

Sure I've got a list of all the zero cans you need to order, shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you some photos and info about each one.

[mluder]

Sure I've got a list of all the zero cans you need to order, shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you some photos and info about each one.

Can I get in on this action? Same for the dimensions of the rubber flog band holders?

Steve

[marty85]

The flux bands are 3/4". The mesh can be purchased at tons of places(Amazon.com, even) but i can't recall the correct hole size/spacing. I'm sure that info is out there on the internets.

The rubber brackets you'll need to custom make or find someone who can make or has a set to sell.

You can purchase a lot of stuff here for your car
http://www.bobspropshop.com/companystore_bttf.html

[drewguillory]

Hey Mark, there are a few open questions from our email conversation.. I figured it would be more beneficial to post them here, so that the information is public/available to the community (at your discretion, of course)

1. From what I can tell, there are (3) 9-position (11 counting the screw holes) single-row terminal strips/blocks located on the rear of the car. There are many different types available online. Do you have a part number, or the specific brand? Are all 3 exactly the same? They have "butterfly" metal tabs that the wires connect to - are these a part of the strip itself, or are they added on?

Passenger side terminal strip, next to the 2 zero cans - Where do the rear row of wires lead off to? It looks like they run down under the engine cover. The front row of wires run through the black split loom, but to where?

2. Blue tube/pipe that connects the 2 oil separators - name/part number? Probably impossible to find, so are dimensions available?

The 2 Janitrol clamps that secure the tube to the separators - part number/size?

3. Metal hose located on driver side pontoon - I believe this is a Hydraflow brand. Do you know the part number? Do the various rear deck hoses come as-is, or do they need to be modified with the correct end fittings?

4. Large orange and black "tiger" hose (located on rear bulkhead) - brand/part number?

5. 2 vented black boxes that sit on top of the binnacle - any info on these little guys? Where to get them?

[Mark D]

Hey Mark, there are a few open questions from our email conversation.. I figured it would be more beneficial to post them here, so that the information is public/available to the community (at your discretion, of course)

1. From what I can tell, there are (3) 9-position (11 counting the screw holes) single-row terminal strips/blocks located on the rear of the car. There are many different types available online. Do you have a part number, or the specific brand? Are all 3 exactly the same? They have "butterfly" metal tabs that the wires connect to - are these a part of the strip itself, or are they added on?

Passenger side terminal strip, next to the 2 zero cans - Where do the rear row of wires lead off to? It looks like they run down under the engine cover. The front row of wires run through the black split loom, but to where?

2. Blue tube/pipe that connects the 2 oil separators - name/part number? Probably impossible to find, so are dimensions available?

The 2 Janitrol clamps that secure the tube to the separators - part number/size?

3. Metal hose located on driver side pontoon - I believe this is a Hydraflow brand. Do you know the part number? Do the various rear deck hoses come as-is, or do they need to be modified with the correct end fittings?

4. Large orange and black "tiger" hose (located on rear bulkhead) - brand/part number?

5. 2 vented black boxes that sit on top of the binnacle - any info on these little guys? Where to get them?

I don't have all my info in front of me at the moment, but I'll answer what I can and look up the rest of the info...I should be around this weekend to update the answers below:

1. I'll have to check on quantity and brand of the terminal strips used. I know there are couple more double row terminal strips used throughout the car as well. The spade tabs that the wires mount to are separate parts and can be purchased as straight, 45, or 90 deg variations. For example, the terminals next to the Janitrol on the bulkhead have both a 90 and 45 spade connectors on each terminal, the 90's facing upwards and the 45's facing downwards. I've got more info I can post on these. I don't think the exact parts are available anymore, but people have made castings of accurate ones that when fully assembled are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing.

The wiring from the terminal strip next to the zero cans on the PS routes through a black corrugated duct secured by 3 purple clamps on the pontoon and then disappears into the 'void' behind the bulkhead where the car's relay/fuse compartment is. Nothing actually routes into the engine compartment...since he back window is removed this area of the car's interior is actually exposed to the outside elements.

2. The crossover tube that connects the two oil separators (w/ annodized blue end fittings was originally manufactured by Weatherhead, now a division of eaton. The correct end fittings are no longer available new so the only options at this point are to find an original NOS tube in a junk yard somewhere, or use a casting. The castings turn out surprisingly well and the color of the end fittings can be matched with Metalcast anodizing paint. I can look up the PN and post it, but I don' think any have been found in a long time.

3. The clamps that mount the crossover tubes to the separators are a "Marman" type clamp, I don't think I have the exact PN for this one. It's a somewhat common type of clamp so most replica builders find some that are close at scrap yards.

4. The orange/black duct that attaches to the bulkhead (is clamped to the elbow on top of the flux capacitor) is a corrugated exhaust duct, It's made by a few different companies, you may need to compare against photos to see which is the closest. I think I may have purchased from here in the past, I can't remember without doing some extra digging

http://www.new-line.com/hose/ducting...nal-wear-strip

5. The vented black boxes were a found item, I don't think anyone has ever found the exact part in the wild. The real ones were measured and photographed at one point and various people have made replicas. I bought a set from a replica builder a long time ago. The bases are machined out of aluminum billet and the upper cover is bent aluminum sheet with louvers stamped into it. I can take some basic measurements if you're just looking to get close.

[cpistocco]

Hello Folks
Can anyone recommend the best place to purchase flux bands and rear exhaust vents? I am looking to begin some BTTF mods that are strictly for static displays. I eventually want to do an easily reversible conversion, and I thought that this might be a good place to start.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Charlie

[drewguillory]

I don't have all my info in front of me at the moment, but I'll answer what I can and look up the rest of the info...I should be around this weekend to update the answers below:

1. I'll have to check on quantity and brand of the terminal strips used. I know there are couple more double row terminal strips used throughout the car as well. The spade tabs that the wires mount to are separate parts and can be purchased as straight, 45, or 90 deg variations. For example, the terminals next to the Janitrol on the bulkhead have both a 90 and 45 spade connectors on each terminal, the 90's facing upwards and the 45's facing downwards. I've got more info I can post on these. I don't think the exact parts are available anymore, but people have made castings of accurate ones that when fully assembled are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing.

The wiring from the terminal strip next to the zero cans on the PS routes through a black corrugated duct secured by 3 purple clamps on the pontoon and then disappears into the 'void' behind the bulkhead where the car's relay/fuse compartment is. Nothing actually routes into the engine compartment...since he back window is removed this area of the car's interior is actually exposed to the outside elements.

2. The crossover tube that connects the two oil separators (w/ annodized blue end fittings was originally manufactured by Weatherhead, now a division of eaton. The correct end fittings are no longer available new so the only options at this point are to find an original NOS tube in a junk yard somewhere, or use a casting. The castings turn out surprisingly well and the color of the end fittings can be matched with Metalcast anodizing paint. I can look up the PN and post it, but I don' think any have been found in a long time.

3. The clamps that mount the crossover tubes to the separators are a "Marman" type clamp, I don't think I have the exact PN for this one. It's a somewhat common type of clamp so most replica builders find some that are close at scrap yards.

4. The orange/black duct that attaches to the bulkhead (is clamped to the elbow on top of the flux capacitor) is a corrugated exhaust duct, It's made by a few different companies, you may need to compare against photos to see which is the closest. I think I may have purchased from here in the past, I can't remember without doing some extra digging

http://www.new-line.com/hose/ducting...nal-wear-strip

5. The vented black boxes were a found item, I don't think anyone has ever found the exact part in the wild. The real ones were measured and photographed at one point and various people have made replicas. I bought a set from a replica builder a long time ago. The bases are machined out of aluminum billet and the upper cover is bent aluminum sheet with louvers stamped into it. I can take some basic measurements if you're just looking to get close.

Thanks for the info Mark. It's funny that they decided to leave a gaping hole in the bulkhead, even for a giant movie prop. What if bad weather were to suddenly hit during filming? I suppose the crew had ways to quickly cover the car.

The back row of wires I was curious about can be seen in this photo:

893380_460859037320088_2125273228_o.jpg

Where do those suckers venture off to? I'm pretty sure this is the A-car.

3. You're right, the Marman (or "Marmon") clamps are relatively common. I often see them on Ebay but never know which size to buy.

4. Thanks for the link! I found several companies that sell them, but only in bulk
I'm waiting to hear back from a couple of places.. fingers crossed that they'll be willing to sell by the foot. Which, it looks like I'll only need a foot. I'll take an educated guess and say the inner diameter is 3". Is this correct?

I had no idea it was actually clamped to the flux elbow! In fact, I had no idea the interior and exterior bulkhead were the same piece! This explains the random screw ends and nuts that can be spotted. I always assumed it was 2 separate bulkheads, which is what I've done in my car (mostly for weatherproofing).

Do you know any contacts that would be willing to sell the various castings you mentioned? While I'm capable of building stuff from scratch, the level of detail and accuracy would never compare to solid casts of screen-used parts.

[mluder]

Hello Folks
Can anyone recommend the best place to purchase flux bands and rear exhaust vents? I am looking to begin some BTTF mods that are strictly for static displays. I eventually want to do an easily reversible conversion, and I thought that this might be a good place to start.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Charlie

The flux bands are quite literally the most difficult part to fabricate and are essentially hand bent tubing through trial and error fitting them as you go... so finding someone who can make some for you may be difficult. Also, if you're looking to do something reversible you will first need to decide how to mount them. The original way is with special brackets (mentioned above) that are attached to the car with screws - not easily reversible.

I made my static display time machine parts from plywood, and stuff I found at Home Depot and Lowes as well as an old hubcap shop. My louvers are made from gator board which is a more rigid form of foam core. The drawback to this scenario is it takes two vehicles to get me to a show... I drive my car and a helper drives another vehicle with the time machine parts because everything would come apart at speed.

Here's what mine looks like...
10644254_1702756243272643_674443456511255632_o.jpg12829275_1702757113272556_4582361865063248150_o.jpgDSC_0050.jpgDSC_0055.jpg

Cheers
Steve

[cpistocco]

The flux bands are quite literally the most difficult part to fabricate and are essentially hand bent tubing through trial and error fitting them as you go... so finding someone who can make some for you may be difficult. Also, if you're looking to do something reversible you will first need to decide how to mount them. The original way is with special brackets (mentioned above) that are attached to the car with screws - not easily reversible.

I made my static display time machine parts from plywood, and stuff I found at Home Depot and Lowes as well as an old hubcap shop. My louvers are made from gator board which is a more rigid form of foam core. The drawback to this scenario is it takes two vehicles to get me to a show... I drive my car and a helper drives another vehicle with the time machine parts because everything would come apart at speed.

Here's what mine looks like...
10644254_1702756243272643_674443456511255632_o.jpg12829275_1702757113272556_4582361865063248150_o.jpgDSC_0050.jpgDSC_0055.jpg

Cheers
Steve

YES! That looks great! I am going for that kind of look. BUT maybe with flux bands too. I want to do a non-destructive conversion for shows (comicons, etc). Easy on....easy off.
-Charlie

[cpistocco]

You can purchase a lot of stuff here for your car
http://www.bobspropshop.com/companystore_bttf.html

Getting in touch with Video Bob is like getting hold of the president. We are just peons!