Can you be more specific? If you're saying there is something off, then what are you referring to? The shape? Fitment?Originally Posted by minispeedstar
Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,471
My VIN: 6125
Can you be more specific? If you're saying there is something off, then what are you referring to? The shape? Fitment?
Posts: 40
Doesn't appear to have been shaped very well, almost bulging around the top and sides, the overhang and also the fact it's split / corner missing by one of the screw holes.. wondered if it was more to be screen accurate but after looking at screen shots realised it isn't?...
Last edited by minispeedstar; 02-18-2017 at 12:07 AM.
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 371
My VIN: 4941
Hello Mark
I have come to the conclusion that I will use Mr Weaver's Cad design. Is there any way that you (or someone else on the forum) could outline precisely which pieces are part of the exhausts. I am going to build those first (from 1/8 in aluminum).
Thank you...as always....for all of your assistance.
-Charlie
Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,471
My VIN: 6125
If you want to just build the vents then cut everything on his layout minus those marked with a red X.
I would advise cutting everything at once though since you will typically be charged a minimum fee for a run of parts and it'll be cheaper to do it all at once vs multiple runs of parts. You'll at least want the engine deck as well as the vents so you have something to mount the vents to.
Just as important as having the piece parts for the vents are how the parts are supposed to be assembled. IE: how parts overlap, if corners are edge to edge or corner to corner when welding, etc. For that you'll need to contact Weaver since he designed the parts and knows how they are supposed to go together. I'm also not sure how his vents are intended to mount to the engine cover either.
For anyone else with questions regarding Weaver's layout please contact him directly on his facebook page
Posts: 25
Mark, could you elaborate on these various hoses? Part numbers, correct length, proper fittings, stock vs modified, correct diameter, etc. Thanks in advance!
Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,471
My VIN: 6125
I could probably write a book just on all the hoses used... there is a lot to know about each one individually but I'll start with some basic info. A few are still available but most are either NLA or prohibitively expensive for the casual time machine builder. I've spent more time than I care to admit running NSN searches to find hoses that are close that can be cut apart and made to look correct. Most were originally purchased from Luky's in Burbank, CA. This place can still cut and crimp hose ends so if you find hoses with the right fittings but are too long, or only have one correct fitting you can frankenstein multiple hoses into one good one.
A while back I was talking with another member on the board and he created this image of the rear deck and assigned letters to each hose:
"A" - Hydraflow Bulkhead Hose(s) - These can be purchased to original spec direct from hydraflow. Super expensive though...like 300 bucks per hose. Need one on the side of the car and the same hose is mounted next to the flux capacitor in the inside of the car. The end fittings and crimping ferrules have slightly changed over the years but are pretty much the same as vintage hoses.
"B.1 and B.2" - Vent to Bulkhead - Large hoses from the side of the vents to the bulkhead are different PN's for each side. These can still be made to spec from the original supplier, I don't have the info handy at the moment for the supplier, but if you're interested I can dig it up. I think each hose was a couple hundred bucks.
"C" - Hydraflow Janitrol hose - This simply inserts into the Janitrol and the other end connects to a custom welded pipe fitting/bulkhead connector that is screwed into the bulkhead. The hose itself is similar to hose A but is a larger size. Same green nomex casing over the hose.
"D" - Flexible Aluminum Duct - Can be purchased from NAPA and other auto parts stores, pretty standard emissions hose.
"E" - Oil Separator to Trapezoid Hoses - These have to be hand made from scratch and are a huge pain in the ass to make correctly. Metal flexible inner hose covered by a special SS woven double outer braid. We've had to machine end fittings from scratch since they are not available anywhere.
"F" - Weatherhead crossover tube - Used to be plentiful at Luky's but have not been available for a long time. People have made castings of these that look just as real as the originals. The end fittings can be painted with "Metalcast" anodizing paint.
"G" - Vent to Vent - Small black inboard hoses w/ 45 deg fittings that bridge across the black strip on the vents. These also came from Luky's and no longer exist. The set I have was custom made by butchering together various different hoses that had the correct end fittings.
"H" - Reactor Duct - Black corrugated ducting connected to plastic/PVC elbows painted silver. Each requires a different type of clamp. Lots more to know on the hose and clamps. If you want accuracy.
"I" - "Vent to Deck" - Small stainless hoses with 90 fittings originally came from Luky's. These don't exist anymore either with the correct type of end fittings. The set I have was butchered together using longer hoses with the fittings cut off and then crimped back on a shorter hose.
"J" - CAT Ducting - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cat.php - I'll have to look up the correct size. This same ducting is used on the interior of the car along the center console.
"K" - Orange and black exhaust duct - Connects to 90 deg elbow on flux capacitor through the bulkhead.
OTHERS NOT LABELED:
Hydraflow reactor hoses - These are the four reactor hoses that connect around the ring of the reactor and fit between the heatsinks. The far ends connect to the oil separators. These can be purchased from hydraflow or XRP to specs that are close to the originals. $100-$200 per hose though. Vintage ones are almost impossible to find in the the correct size, AN-5 so AN-6 reproduction are one option. The correct hoses have a single black spiral tracer that runs the length of the hose, the repros are either solid green or have a double yellow tracer.
Orange tube - Connects Janitrol to Zero can on rear bulkhead - Flexible Air intake duct. Not sure if the supplier for these have dried up or not.
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
^^^^^^This is AWESOME!^^^^^^
Thanks
Steve
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
Posts: 25
One hose not listed (due to the lightning rod holder in it's place) is this guy:
I believe it is Aeroquip type/brand. A quick search for aeroquip on EBay pulls up both hoses and end fittings.. many look pretty close to the screen used. Mark, do you know the proper sizes for these fittings?
I will definitely attempt to frankenstein parts together. As you've mentioned the real hoses are either rare or crazy expensive.
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 65
Hi Mark, I was wondering if you know who's BTTF Delorean was at the Oscars with Michael J. Fox last night. Thanks
Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,471
My VIN: 6125
Hey Drew,One hose not listed (due to the lightning rod holder in it's place) is this guy:
I believe it is Aeroquip type/brand. A quick search for aeroquip on EBay pulls up both hoses and end fittings.. many look pretty close to the screen used. Mark, do you know the proper sizes for these fittings?
I will definitely attempt to frankenstein parts together. As you've mentioned the real hoses are either rare or crazy expensive.
The red/silver hose is Aeroquip brand PN 601021L0150. It would be a miracle to find one of these in the wild, so you'll be more likely to build one with the correct hose and end fittings. The hose and fittings are AN size -12, although the flange fitting on the 90 deg end is a size -20 flange. In total you'll need:
1x Flare Fitting (Straight end with blue nut) 816-12D
2X Sockets (Red hex part that screws onto fittings and captures the hose) 516-12D
~16" of wire braided hose 601-12D
1X Blue mounting flange for 90 deg end 9644-20D
And last but not least the actual 90 deg flange fitting, 8585-14-12-20D. You'll probably have zero luck finding one of these so you have a few different options:
Use a regular 90 deg fitting (standard flare) and remove the blue nut. You can mount the standard 90 deg end directly to the 'trapezoid' instead of using the blue flange to hole it in place. The diameter of the regular 90 deg flare end will be but a fraction of the diameter of the blue -20 flange mount, so you can also weld/braze on an aluminum disc and paint the fitting red with anodizing paint to make it look more accurate. Or you can just leave the 90 deg end as-is and just rigid mount the hose itself into place and put the blue flange around the hose end making it appear that the flange is actually holding it there.
You can also get a size -12 flange fitting and modify that with a larger -20 end on it which will give you a more accurate look than modifying the -12 standard flare fitting. There would be welding/brazing involved here as well.
To mount the straight end of the hose to the aluminum bulkhead production fabricated a pipe coupler welded to a strip of bar stock (steel) and then threaded the straight hose fitting on to it. The coupler is held onto the bulkhead with a couple of screws.
Hope that info helps. It's a little complicated to describe without having many pictures on hand. If you need something more visual to get what I'm trying to describe let me know.
As far as cost goes for all the pieces you can still expect to spend somewhere between $100-$200 in parts to build the hose.
Last edited by Mark D; 02-27-2017 at 02:07 PM.
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