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Thread: BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

  1. #241
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,470

    My VIN:    6125

    Quote Originally Posted by Revol2 View Post
    Hi guys!
    I wrote a message in private to many authorities builders car BTTF
    I wanted to buy bttf speedo already built or Replica Stanley Display and I also wrote to Gary Weaver
    Gary Weaver is totaly me ignored
    so...* that money is so much that is not necessary any more? )
    I Do not know who to knock for to find Stanley ReadOut Replica(!)
    all they ignore and hide
    Only Mark D, me very much helped and I'll start to build speedo himself
    thank you very much Mark, for your very detailed answer!

    I received a Hammond
    and my box is very ribbed outside
    Attachment 49297
    Attachment 49298
    Attachment 49299

    I'm a other kind of ordered?
    Attachment 49296

    everybody have are ribbed sides on your boxes?
    Please tell me, where to get the correct box ? Thx!
    The hammond enclosure you have is correct and the waviness on the outside of the enclosure are pretty common. It's not really a "defect" but it's related to the molding process of the box itself. The inside of the box has actual ribs where you can subdivide the box up or glue in partitions, and the slightly ribbed outside it just waviness from the injection molding process. You can use a sanding block to flatten out the plastic, or when you paint the box use a filler primer and block the primer and the waviness will be less noticeable.

  2. #242
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    1

    Need Overhead Console Layout etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    Check your email, I forwarded you some info.
    I also need the drawing or or layout of the overhead panel.

    Raul

  3. #243
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,470

    My VIN:    6125

    In regards to the perforated mesh for the meter panel, it's the same aluminum mesh used on the flux bands on the exterior of the car. It's sold in 4x10 sheets and one sheet is more than enough for one car.

    McNICHOLS® Quality Perforated Metal, Round Hole, Aluminum Type 3003-H14, .050 Gauge, Mill Finish, 3/32" Holes on 5/32" Centers, Staggered Pattern, 33% Open Area, Sheet, 48.0000" Width x 120.0000" Length

    http://www.mcnichols.com/product/173...=avc:AV-127478

  4. #244
    Junior Member drewguillory's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2012

    Posts:    25

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    The red/silver hose is Aeroquip brand PN 601021L0150....

    To mount the straight end of the hose to the aluminum bulkhead production fabricated a pipe coupler welded to a strip of bar stock (steel) and then threaded the straight hose fitting on to it.
    Do you know the dimensions of this bar stock? I imagine they cut both pieces from a longer bar.

  5. #245
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,470

    My VIN:    6125

    Quote Originally Posted by drewguillory View Post
    Do you know the dimensions of this bar stock? I imagine they cut both pieces from a longer bar.
    I do know the dimensions but don't have the info handy. I'll pull up the CAD model later and take some measurements. The pipe fitting is a Male-Male NPT fitting if I'm remembering correctly. It doesn't actually have the correct threads to match the end of the Aeroquip hose, but they just jammed it on there as tight as they could to make it work.

  6. #246
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,470

    My VIN:    6125

    The meter panel that fits in the glove box is cut from 1/8" thick aluminum 6061 sheet and is flat with no bend at the bottom (as someone else posted earlier)

    The overall dimensions are 15 29/32 x 4 25/32. Most of the fabricated parts on the car have 'make sense' dimensions to the whole or half inch, but the meter panel is more oddly shaped for whatever reason. Either the guy who made the part was trying to hit an exact measurement to match the glove box, or he was just a little care free with his cut lines.

    The top edge of the aluminum plate is also notched out for clearance to the glove box latch mechanism. Without the notch the plate will not fit correctly in the glove box.

    This photo I posted a few posts back shows the upper profile of the plate.


    This is about as detailed as I can get with dimensions.

  7. #247
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Posts:    8

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    ... or when you paint the box use a filler primer and block the primer and the waviness will be less noticeable.
    Super Mark, I will do so
    You have a big head! Thx

  8. #248
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Posts:    27

    Hi Mark,

    Thank you for continuing to help us all with our questions. I think we all learn and benefit from your knowledge and experience.

    I'm sorry to keep throwing questions your way, but was wondering if there is any useful information for the unintended holes that exist on the bottom of the reactor core (behind the heatsinks) and on the rear vents themselves (the miscellaneous holes that don't have screws in them). I could attempt to measure them out from pictures, but if you have actual dimensions that would be really useful.

    Thanks

  9. #249
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,470

    My VIN:    6125

    Quote Originally Posted by "What The Flux?" View Post
    Hi Mark,

    Thank you for continuing to help us all with our questions. I think we all learn and benefit from your knowledge and experience.

    I'm sorry to keep throwing questions your way, but was wondering if there is any useful information for the unintended holes that exist on the bottom of the reactor core (behind the heatsinks) and on the rear vents themselves (the miscellaneous holes that don't have screws in them). I could attempt to measure them out from pictures, but if you have actual dimensions that would be really useful.

    Thanks
    The best information that we have is that the extra "oops" holes around the nuclear reactor ring were from a design change in the heat sink spacing sometime during the build. The reactor as we know it now has one heat sink centered on the rear of the reactor with the remaining heat sinks evenly spaced around it. Early on in the build this wasn't the case and the heat sinks were spaced differently.

    Something like this:


    The extra holes that still exist line up with the hole spacing on the heat sinks.

    I can confirm with some reference photos, but as far as I know this is an A car trait only. The B car only had one set of holes that matched to the A car after the final spacing was decided.

    There are a few other "oops" holes in the vents that are there for interesting reasons. There are two sets of triangularly spaced holes on the top of each vent that hold the plastic CO2 dispensing nozzle inside the vent. The nozzle could be mounted in one of two positions to blast CO2 either straight back, or up at an angle.

    In the mall parking lot scene when the car returns back cold from the first time travel event with Einstein in the car, you first see the CO2 blast backwards horizontally towards the camera. Then it cuts to a wide shot immediately afterwards and you see the plume of CO2 shooting out at an upward angle.

  10. #250
    Member
    Join Date:  Apr 2015

    Posts:    40

    Quote Originally Posted by cpistocco View Post
    Wow- That switch layout is exactly what I have been looking for.... One switch every inch! Can you tell me how you create the sound effects? Also, what is the proper size of the red and green jewel lights?
    Thanks a million
    Charlie
    ps- It took me 3 attempts before I could bend the plexi properly!
    The jewel lights are 1", the sound affects are a little complicated and I don't want to highjack this topic anymore than I have already, tho here's a handy tip on how to make the plexi work using a heat gun, original cover and some masking tape....







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