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Thread: BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

  1. #381
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

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    Quote Originally Posted by kgp4death View Post
    whats the model of the muffler filters on the rear passenger side near the capacitors? Thanks in advance
    They are atomuffler M00. The base is just a piece of wood with chamfered edges and two holes drilled in it. The atomuffler show up on ebay frequently, although as with most of the other parts on the car the new mufflers changed from the vintage ones and the cast top looks slightly different.

    Here's photo of one that is legit:
    Last edited by Mark D; 09-28-2017 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Added Photo

  2. #382
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by BadCompany View Post
    Hey Mark,
    Please post the pictures of the roentgen gauges......please let me know which one was used on the A car
    Thanks
    Here are a few photos of the roentgen gauge from the A car:




    And a comparison of a correct gauge and an incorrect gauge


  3. #383
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxQ View Post
    Hi Mark,
    I'm having to make my own 'Torr Laboratories' Vacuum Relays for my Flux Capacitor build - I've looked everywhere for these things... Do you (or anyone else reading this) know the diameter and height/thickness of the brass section of the relays? Thanks!
    M.Q
    The relay coil housings are made of steel with yellow zinc plating.


  4. #384
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2017

    Posts:    9

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    The relay coil housings are made of steel with yellow zinc plating.
    Thank you Mark! You have no idea how much I appreciate this The Stahlin J1210HPL (electrical box) I ordered arrived today. It feels like Xmas lol...
    T.

  5. #385
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
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    20170929_113714.jpg
    Made this today

  6. #386
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2017

    Posts:    9

    90 Degree - Orange Distributor/Spark Plug Boots/Caps & Grommets

    Hi Guys,
    thanks to the help I've received on this Forum - especially from Mark, I am now making good progress with my Flux Capacitor build. I'm still undecided as to which way to go with the Vacuum Relay bases. Fabricate them or make a master and cast them (pros & cons both ways).
    Meanwhile... I've looked everywhere for the correct 90 Degree - orange distributor/spark plug boot/caps and the orange grommets that the yellow leads go through on the mounting plate. What are they from originally Mark? Can you still get them? I've attached a screen shot from the BTTF DeLorean restoration DVD. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    mQ
    IMG_1395 - Copy.jpg

  7. #387
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

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    My VIN:    6125

    I was not around when the screen used Flux Capacitor was being rebuilt, but I believe it was put back together with the original boots and wires after they were cleaned up. The boots on the car now should be those that were originally on the A car in 1985. It's also unique along with the B car in that it has the rubber on the backing board where the yellow wires pass through. The C car did not have these and there are a few other variations between the flux capacitors on the A, B and C cars. These can easily be made by using just the ends from the 90 deg boots and cutting off the large end that would normally go over the glass relay tube.

    The boots you can find in black rubber at our your local auto parts store. The shape is the same as screen used l and they just need to be dyed orange using some SEM vinyl dye in a spray can. I've got a couple dozen boots from when I bought a bunch a few years back, if anyone is really looking for some and can't find any locally send me a PM. Otherwise here's a link to the ones you can get on OReilly's website.

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...ct512a/2595059. You can search that same PN and brand on other sites to find alternative sources as well.

    The only slight difference on these is that you'll want to sand the end of the narrow (where the yellow wire enters) end flat to eliminate the rounded/radiused edge. The end should be flat and not rounded.

  8. #388
    Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2015

    Location:  Rhode Island

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    My VIN:    it's over 9000....well 3070

    screws/bolts

    Might sound like a stupid question but what type of screws were used on flux band brakets they need to ancor themselves i would guess but too tight would bow the stainless steel, probably over thinking it.

  9. #389
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,468

    My VIN:    6125

    Quote Originally Posted by kgp4death View Post
    Might sound like a stupid question but what type of screws were used on flux band brakets they need to ancor themselves i would guess but too tight would bow the stainless steel, probably over thinking it.
    On the screen used cars there was no time to remove panels to access to the inside for a nut and bolt so in most cases so they just used sheet metal screws. If you do the same you'll want to use a center punch and drill plot holes in advance to prevent the drill bit from wandering.

    For the front flux boxes you can get to the opposite side of the fender with your hands so a larger nut/bolt with washers were used. I'd also recommend removing the T panel from the roof when installing the upper flux boxes to bolt those on the same way as the fronts.

  10. #390
    Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2015

    Location:  Rhode Island

    Posts:    34

    My VIN:    it's over 9000....well 3070

    Thanks Again

    Thanks Again

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