Posts: 104
Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
Where does this go?
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
I tried searching this thread but go no results.
Is there a master list of all the zero cans on or in the car?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
VSR Can (Passenger Side Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z61-163A-2.625 Untrimmed (Square 3.81W x 10.15L x 2.625H Untrimmed. Custom draw depth requires larger blank)
Strain Relief Box SM (Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z32-64A-2.5 Untrimmed (Square 2W x 4L x 2.5H Untrimmed)
Strain Relief Box LG (Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z48-80A-3.5 Untrimmed (Square 3W x 5L x 3.5H Untrimmed)
PS Pontoon Boxes (PS Pontoon) - 2 EA - Z48-80A-3.5 Untrimmed (Square 3W x 5L x 3.5H Untrimmed)
Heatsink Box (Rear Deck) - 1 EA - Z80-112A-5.0 Untrimmed (Square 5W x 7L x 5H Untrimmed)
Shockmount (Inside Shockmount) -1 EA ZR35A-3.0 Untrimmed (Round 2.2OD x 3H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Behind Reactor (Rear Deck) - 1 EA - ZR35A-3.0 Untrimmed (Round 2.2OD x 3H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Trapezoid Cans (Rear Deck) - 2 EA - ZR75A-4.0 Untrimmed (Round 3.5OD x 4H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Pacman Cans (Pacman Assy) - 3 EA - ZT68-68B-0.56 (Square Lid 4.25W x 4.25H Trimmed to .56 w/ .25" Outer Corner Radius)
The large strain relief box and the pontoon side boxes start as the same part and are trimmed differently. The pontoon cans are mostly unmodified and you need to just trim up the 'ears' that are left over from the forming process. The strain relief box has the bottom cut to form the bent out side tabs that are drilled and mounted to the bulkhead. I don't have the exact measurements for trimming the parts, but there are some good photos of the pre-restored and post-restored car that show the boxes and how they are modified.
Simple but dumb question - how do you prep the phone keypad to fit into the TRW time circuits enclosure? Do I remove the existing keypad front that seems to hold the keys, and then break off the extraneous keys?
Greg
I'm assuming you've got one of the GTE phone keypads that wasn't originally part of a real TRW keypad/enclosure? If that's the case, then yes you have to remove the front face of the keypad and replace with a replica that has blanks to delete the * and # keys. People have been 3D printing or casting that front face in addition to the green housing.
It's been a while since I've taken apart one of the keypads but if I'm remembering correctly once it's disassembled enough to swap the face plate you should be able to just pull out the two unneeded keys and reassemble with the new face plate. The red housing behind the creme colored face plate on the real TRW keypads that hold all the buttons still have the cutout/openings for the * and # but those buttons were just never installed.
You basically just need to mod your GTE phone keypad to match how it would have been assembled from the factory had it originally come with the alternate face plate without those two buttons.
Hope that all makes sense.
Well it seems I have the same keypad that was shown earlier that are $5 bucks. I drilled out the 4 tabs on each corner plus the two in the middle, and it came apart pretty easily. And the new faceplate I have has matching holes for the circuit board to mount to it.
So it was easier than I thought.
Greg
Couple new questions..
One- where do you guys get the gauges for the plutonium gauges? I know we have to mix them with new labels and all, but is there a source for them? My local surplus place may get them once in a blue moon, but I’d assume there’s a place that has a good supply?
Two: K4 switches- where’s a good place to find these?
Thanks!
Greg
Posts: 104