Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 847
My VIN: 5625
Does anyone know how to test the rad fans just to see if they actually work? I'm not sure that I have ever had it running long enough to get up to temp. Do I just need to jumper the two pins on the otterstat with the ignition on? If so, and the fans don't come on how do I know if the otterstat is operating correctly?
Last edited by Trstno1; 02-02-2015 at 02:49 PM.
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 388
My VIN: 4870
When I got my car the fans were disconnected from the otterstat and jumped together (otterstat was gone and the pipe was welded shut), the fans came on and stayed on when turning the key. After replacing the fans (toby's DMCNW) and the otterstat all was good. If you jump the wires with stock fans and get nothing I'll bet you need new fans just to start. Otterstat is only a couple of bucks I would just get a new one and be done with it.Originally Posted by Trstno1
Vin# 4870 - Rebuilt PRV motor - custom seats - fuzzy dash and stock everything else
-Chris
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 847
My VIN: 5625
Ok, I jumpered the wires from the otterstat and the fans came on. Is there a way to test the otterstat with a meter for function? Obviously if the two pins have continuity when the otterstat is cold it would need replaced. But is there any other test that one could run to see if it works other than running the vehicle up to temp? At rest should the otterstat pins be tested as an open load or a certain resistance?
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 847
My VIN: 5625
Right now the otterstat measures at 4.8 M ohms when cold between the two pins. Do the otterstat readings control the temp gauge in the car or just the operation of the rad fans? Sorry.....newbie here.
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,385
My VIN: thirty two 'o five
Club(s): (PNDC)
I think thats backwards - continuity when hot (switch closed).
It's a make or break connections, like a light switch.
Dave
Here, somewhere.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
You can take it out of the car, put an ohm meter on it (will read wide open), warm it up to 200 degrees and see of it closes (zero ohms). Kind of a lot of work.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 276
My VIN: 1776
The otterstat controls only the fans. Since jumpering the wires caused the fans to run, there's a pretty good chance the otterstat is bad (they are notoriously failure-prone).
Make sure that the otterstat pipe is oriented so that the otterstat is on the bottom. This ensures that the otterstat is immersed in liquid coolant, and is not insulated in a vapor pocket.
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 847
My VIN: 5625
Yes, The otterstat is mounted so that the terminals are pointed down. I guess the other sensor that may be causing the issue is the coolant temperature switch. Since I dont have any means of actually testing the temp of the coolant, I suppose I should just get a replacement of each......
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,077
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Not quite straight on the names of the components that are - and are not - in this circuit. See boldface comments:
Assuming the coolant in the pipe is getting hot enough to kick on a good Otterstat the only part you need is a new/good Otterstat. The book says the Otterstat switch-closed temp is ~207F/97C in case you feel like testing yours off the car as Dave described.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 847
My VIN: 5625
Sounds good, I'll test things tomorrow. Thanks!!
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
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