Fuel Injector pressure test

[bytes311]

I was watching a video on YouTube about testing the fuel injectors by pushing down on the plate to produce a spray, seen here: http://youtu.be/V1adoUkH70c

Mine doesn't have any resistance when pushed in, so the method in the video doesn't work. I'm wondering if the spring is stuck in the open position, because my engine has been running rich and terrible for the last week. It seems like it keeps pumping fuel into the cylinders. The engine doesn't idle unless I leave my foot on the pedal.

This started after I cleaned the idle speed regulator and fixed a vacuum leak. It ran perfectly for a couple minutes... it could finally breath! But then it went down hill after that. The Cat got hot and melted the honeycomb.

Through process of elimination, I removed the muffler and the Cat (both were glowing red), bought new spark plugs, cleaned out the idle speed regulator (again), and cleaned the contacts for the ignition coil. The engine still sounds like it's missing, and dies at idle.

I'm at a complete loss here.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-Daniel

[David T]

I was watching a video on YouTube about testing the fuel injectors by pushing down on the plate to produce a spray, seen here: http://youtu.be/V1adoUkH70c

Mine doesn't have any resistance when pushed in, so the method in the video doesn't work. I'm wondering if the spring is stuck in the open position, because my engine has been running rich and terrible for the last week. It seems like it keeps pumping fuel into the cylinders. The engine doesn't idle unless I leave my foot on the pedal.

This started after I cleaned the idle speed regulator and fixed a vacuum leak. It ran perfectly for a couple minutes... it could finally breath! But then it went down hill after that. The Cat got hot and melted the honeycomb.

Through process of elimination, I removed the muffler and the Cat (both were glowing red), bought new spark plugs, cleaned out the idle speed regulator (again), and cleaned the contacts for the ignition coil. The engine still sounds like it's missing, and dies at idle.

I'm at a complete loss here.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-Daniel

\
The plunger is stuck in the mixture unit. It needs to be disassembled, the plunger gently removed, everything cleaned with Acetone till the plunger moves freely, and then reassembled. You may have to replace the cat.

[bytes311]

\
The plunger is stuck in the mixture unit. It needs to be disassembled, the plunger gently removed, everything cleaned with Acetone till the plunger moves freely, and then reassembled. You may have to replace the cat.

Aha! I will do that.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yes. The fuel distributor is stuck wide open. Not only are you melting the exhaust you are diluting the engine oil. You are lucky it ran at all. Check the oil level, if it is too high or smells like gas change the oil now. Cams are expensive.

BTW David T does NOT mean to take the fuel distributor apart. Just remove it from the engine, pull the plunger out if you can, clean it, and put it back in. If you separate the two halves of the fuel distributor the odds of getting it back together again and working are somewhere between slim and none.

[bytes311]

Yes. The fuel distributor is stuck wide open. Not only are you melting the exhaust you are diluting the engine oil. You are lucky it ran at all. Check the oil level, if it is too high or smells like gas change the oil now. Cams are expensive.

BTW David T does NOT mean to take the fuel distributor apart. Just remove it from the engine, pull the plunger out if you can, clean it, and put it back in. If you separate the two halves of the fuel distributor the odds of getting it back together again and working are somewhere between slim and none.

Thanks Dave. Yeah, the oil smells of gas and I plan on changing that tomorrow. As for removing the distributor from the engine, I'll have to figure out how that thing is bolted on there. <grin>

- Daniel

[David T]

Thanks Dave. Yeah, the oil smells of gas and I plan on changing that tomorrow. As for removing the distributor from the engine, I'll have to figure out how that thing is bolted on there. <grin>

- Daniel

You take the mixture unit off and separate the two halves of the large aluminum housings. You DO NOT take the metering unit apart. That is the black heavy steel thing with all of the fuel lines attached. Once you have the metering unit apart you can get the plunger out.

[DMC5180]

You take the mixture unit off and separate the two halves of the large aluminum housings. You DO NOT take the metering unit apart. That is the black heavy steel thing with all of the fuel lines attached. Once you have the metering unit apart you can get the plunger out.

David,

I take it your not advocating simply removing the 3 straight slot screws from the metering head and lifting it off the aluminum housing? Have you had bad experiences with this method?

[Bitsyncmaster]

David,

I take it your not advocating simply removing the 3 straight slot screws from the metering head and lifting it off the aluminum housing? Have you had bad experiences with this method?

I had to use an impact "driver" to get those 3 screws out but with that tool it was no problem.

[DMC5180]

I had to use an impact "driver" to get those 3 screws out but with that tool it was no problem.

Yeah an impact driver is mans best friend when it comes breaking loose screws threaded into aluminum. An absolute must have item when working on motorcycle engines too.

[bytes311]

Got it out, but how do I remove the pivet pin to reach the plunger? Took the snap rings off and the ball bearing. I 20150208_151448.jpgsee the pin but which way do I drive it out?