Door locks seizing

[Trstno1]

Ok guys

I started having an issue with the central locking system. I can use the keys in the door and the locks operate as though they should. However if I am in the car with the doors closed and hit the door lock switch on either door the solinoids lock but freeze in the lock position, thus locking me in the car. The only way to get the solinoids to release is by pulling the lock module power wire from the power lock circuit breaker and de-energizing the lock solinoids. Does this mean my factory lock module is toast (or rather the relays inside it)? If I pull out the lock module and open it up what should I be looking for?

I don't really care about having power locks now, but would like to hook up a keyless entry unit or a wings a loft system at some point down the road.

What I don't want to happen again.......getting locked inside the @!#% car again

What is everyone's thoughts?

[sdg3205]

I'm not sure it's the solenoids sticking. Could be a lock and latch misalignment. Have you fused the DLM with a 10 amp fuse? That would ensure you blow the fuse and prevent lock in.

Also, the inertia switch can unlock in a heart beat.


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[Trstno1]

I'm not sure it's the solenoids sticking. Could be a lock and latch misalignment. Have you fused the DLM with a 10 amp fuse? That would ensure you blow the fuse and prevent lock in.

Also, the inertia switch can unlock in a heart beat.


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Hmm, lock and latch misalignment. Could you expand on that? And I will install a 10 amp fuse today. Thanks!

[Rich]

Hmm, lock and latch misalignment. Could you expand on that? And I will install a 10 amp fuse today.

Procedure is in ST-10-8-81 which starts on p.57 of this .pdf:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13720563/DeL...ins-Hybrid.pdf

It comes from one of the stickies at the top of the Resources page:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?28...Engine-Manuals

Focus on the Locks pages of that service bulletin.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Yes your solenoids are probably sticking due to the points jambing in the module. The all time best fix for that is a Lockzilla module but since they're not available you could substitute a reconditioned module with better relays. We carry this and also reconditioned more powerful solenoids.

If you really don't care about having power locks just disconnect the module lead and you'll have a manual locking system. If you still have binding issues at that point THEN you will need to perform adjustments.
Rob Grady

Ok guys

I started having an issue with the central locking system. I can use the keys in the door and the locks operate as though they should. However if I am in the car with the doors closed and hit the door lock switch on either door the solinoids lock but freeze in the lock position, thus locking me in the car. The only way to get the solinoids to release is by pulling the lock module power wire from the power lock circuit breaker and de-energizing the lock solinoids. Does this mean my factory lock module is toast (or rather the relays inside it)? If I pull out the lock module and open it up what should I be looking for?

I don't really care about having power locks now, but would like to hook up a keyless entry unit or a wings a loft system at some point down the road.

What I don't want to happen again.......getting locked inside the @!#% car again

What is everyone's thoughts?

[Timebender]

Where is the Door Lock Module located, so I can add a fuse or decide to disconnect the lead? I don't have problems yet - doors open and close fine and lock okay from the outside, but I haven't tested it from inside the cabin.

[Patrick C]

Where is the Door Lock Module located, so I can add a fuse or decide to disconnect the lead? I don't have problems yet - doors open and close fine and lock okay from the outside, but I haven't tested it from inside the cabin.

Found this picture online. The DLM is the black plastic box with the wires coming from it.

[Timebender]

Thanks Patrick - I was looking right after I posted and found the same. At least it's easy to get to.

[Trstno1]

Does anyone know what a bad relay looks like in the DLM?

[DrJeff]

Does anyone know what a bad relay looks like in the DLM?

relay switch.jpg

This is a picture of a similar relay (but not exactly the same relay in the DLM). The red arrow shows the contact point where the arm of the relay (the bit that physically moves as the current is applied - thus the clicking sound) closes the circuit. In a stuck relay this contact point will be closed (or touching) all the time. Sometimes the contact is fused closed (essentially welded together), or other times it could be that the mechanism of the arm is no longer working and the arm won't withdrawal from the contact point (broken or worn out spring). The contact points are usually very close, so there may be sufficient carbon buildup on the surface to essentially have the relay act as if it were closed.