Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Last edited by DMC5180; 02-15-2015 at 02:01 PM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
On the front of each side of the intake manifold is a large freeze-out type of plug. A cupped disk pressed into a large hole. The bolt that holds a bunch of ground wires is tapped into the manifold on the top, right side. If you put too long a bolt in that hole it goes too far and hits the plug bending it and causing a leak.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Interesting, who would ever guess that even being possible.
Thanks David
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I didn't say you could have a bad impulse coil, I said if went bad and was changed and the gaps are messed up on the reluctor the motor will run badly. A bad impulse coil would cause the motor to not run at all. Testing the injectors is more than just fuel flow. A bad pattern can mess up a cylinder too. Did you carefully gap each spark plug the same? Did you put the secondary ignition wires back exactly as they were? Is the distributor cap on all the way? I plug the inlet to the mixture unit and pump smoke in through the hose from the crankcase inlet.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,385
My VIN: thirty two 'o five
Club(s): (PNDC)
No! Don't buy a new one, but if you've exhausted all other possibilities it only takes 1 minute to swap an idle ECU from a fellow owner.
I seriously doubt its the ECU, but hey who knows. Wouldn't be the first time a new problem came to light. Ask me about my PPR o-ring debacle.
Dave
Here, somewhere.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I brought up the problem with the bolt because you would never find such an unusual vacuum leak without doing a smoke test. On one car I did when I hooked up, smoke started pouring out of the left/rear pontoon. When we opened it up there was no carbon canister! The hoses were just hanging loose in there. On another car, EVERY injector seal was shooting smoke. Very common to find the air pipe for the idle motor to be leaky too. Another unusual one was no "O" ring on the cold start valve. You could take the whole motor all apart and find this stuff but using a smoke machine is a lot more efficient. Unless you can control ALL of the air going into the motor (meaning NO vacuum leaks!) you will have a hard time getting it to idle correctly and set the mixture. Bad idle ECU's are rare but we have seen cases on this forum where there was a problem with them. Before assuming a bad ECU you should rule out all other possibilities. Even if you do have a bad ECU and replace or fix it, it can't work correctly if you still have other problems like vacuum leaks or things not adjusted properly.
David Teitelbaum
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
It's definetly not a bad ECU so don't waste time or money swapping it. Rather than doing compression or leakdown testing (much better indicator of engine health BTW) at this stage of diagnosis I would simply adjust the CO plug allen screw back and forth a half turn or so to see if it stabilizes in either direction. Too rich or too lean will both cause hunting. Ideally the dwellmeter should oscillate back and forth between 40 & 50 degrees when the enrichment is spot on.
Rob Grady
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current