Uh..oh.. Door Hinge mount threads stripped...

[Brian_SS_TT]

Hi All-

As I was taking the doors off I noticed one of the bolts was very hard to back out, went slowly to avoid snapping it off and once out notice the threaded plate in the door is stripped, previous owner may have cross threaded when installing, maybe using an impact to get it to seat.

Anyway does anyone have any experience with this or have any suggestions? Can this plate be easily changed out for a new one? Thread repair heli-coil, insert etc seems like there's not enough room.

Maybe the vendors have come across this? Dave S, Toby, Rob?

Any help would greatly be appreciated.

For those asking why the heck I would take the doors off in the first place... I needed to treat the roof box.


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[PJ Grady Inc.]

Yes I've fixed these before. You must open the stainless up with a die grinder and burr to allow the install of a SOLID threaded insert like a "Timesert" (My preferred brand). You'll need to stabilize the bracket using a bolt on the good thread in order to make a drill & tape repair to allow use of the threaded insert. This is a tricky repair requiring an installation kit and steady hands. You only get one shot or it's new door time. I like your nifty door fixture. BTW where do you live as I travel around a bit?
Rob

Hi All-

As I was taking the doors off I noticed one of the bolts was very hard to back out, went slowly to avoid snapping it off and once out notice the threaded plate in the door is stripped, previous owner may have cross threaded when installing, maybe using an impact to get it to seat.

Anyway does anyone have any experience with this or have any suggestions? Can this plate be easily changed out for a new one? Thread repair heli-coil, insert etc seems like there's not enough room.

Maybe the vendors have come across this? Dave S, Toby, Rob?

Any help would greatly be appreciated.

For those asking why the heck I would take the doors off in the first place... I needed to treat the roof box.


IMG_1576.jpgIMG_1580.jpgIMG_1574.jpg IMG_1581.jpgIMG_1583.jpg

[David T]

Yes I've fixed these before. You must open the stainless up with a die grinder and burr to allow the install of a SOLID threaded insert like a "Timesert" (My preferred brand). You'll need to stabilize the bracket using a bolt on the good thread in order to make a drill & tape repair to allow use of the threaded insert. This is a tricky repair requiring an installation kit and steady hands. You only get one shot or it's new door time. I like your nifty door fixture. BTW where do you live as I travel around a bit?
Rob

It can be repaired with a Heli-Coil but as Rob says, a solid kind of insert like a Timesert would be preferable but to get them is expensive, you can't buy 1. Don't be fooled by the Heli-Coils, the specs claim a LOT of strength but a lot depends on what you are installing it in and how well you do it. I have used Heli-Coils a lot and the only times I had any trouble was if it didn't install correctly. Once installed I have never had one pull out or strip. Maybe it was stripped at the factory? All kinds of surprises await the unwary! At least you got the bolt out without breaking it off. You DID mark positions BEFORE you removed the doors?

[Brian_SS_TT]

Thanks for the fast response guys!

Yeah don't really like the sound of "new door time". LOL
Honestly I've never installed a helicoil or insert and if it's one shot or new door time might be better left to someone that's has done it successfully...

BTW Rob when's the next time you're coming through Chicago? I'm in the west suburbs

I borrowed the door jig design from Houston...I was down there last summer and noticed it and just recreated from memory..came out ok.

David-Yep I marked the hinges to the roof box and marked the doors to the edges of the roof box and marked the hinges to the doors. Should get me about 95%+ of where it originally was leaving some fine adjustments...I hope! I have heard alot of nightmares about door alignment...

It's possible it was installed at the factory but I believe it was replaced at some point. No vin under the headliner and the door guides are plastic on the Drivers side and Steel on the passenger side. Build date Dec 81'

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I used Helicoil's back in the 80's but Timeserts are better in every way except price. DO NOT GAMBLE ON A HELICOIL as failure is not an option here.
You'll have to lay out a hundred plus for the kit verses over 15 times that amount for a new door with freight. Add a day or two of a competant Delorean mechanic's labor or your own. Even if you're a very good mechanic plan on spending two days minimum hanging the door, transfering parts and glass, and aligning and regraining the door to match your car. It would be cheaper to ship the door to me than risk wrecking it with insufficent tools or experience. BTW the factory people never stripped those bolts in my experience but it's possible.
Rob

It can be repaired with a Heli-Coil but as Rob says, a solid kind of insert like a Timesert would be preferable but to get them is expensive, you can't buy 1. Don't be fooled by the Heli-Coils, the specs claim a LOT of strength but a lot depends on what you are installing it in and how well you do it. I have used Heli-Coils a lot and the only times I had any trouble was if it didn't install correctly. Once installed I have never had one pull out or strip. Maybe it was stripped at the factory? All kinds of surprises await the unwary! At least you got the bolt out without breaking it off. You DID mark positions BEFORE you removed the doors?

[DMC5180]

Sounds like a short drive to Crystal lake would be prudent. Dave only uses timeserts that I'm aware of. You won't have to buy the kit. Just a little shop time and one insert. Plus whatever other gotta have trinkets catch your eye in the showroom.😜

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Since you're near Dave Swingle give him first crack on the repair. If for some reason he takes a pass let me know and I may be out there soon for a day or so.

Thanks for the fast response guys!

Yeah don't really like the sound of "new door time". LOL
Honestly I've never installed a helicoil or insert and if it's one shot or new door time might be better left to someone that's has done it successfully...

BTW Rob when's the next time you're coming through Chicago? I'm in the west suburbs

I borrowed the door jig design from Houston...I was down there last summer and noticed it and just recreated from memory..came out ok.

David-Yep I marked the hinges to the roof box and marked the doors to the edges of the roof box and marked the hinges to the doors. Should get me about 95%+ of where it originally was leaving some fine adjustments...I hope! I have heard alot of nightmares about door alignment...

It's possible it was installed at the factory but I believe it was replaced at some point. No vin under the headliner and the door guides are plastic on the Drivers side and Steel on the passenger side. Build date Dec 81'

[Brian_SS_TT]

I'll give Dave a call tomorrow, if he passes I'll let you know.

Thanks

[Brian_SS_TT]

Well...No Time-Sert needed here!. Somehow I was able to get the mounting plate out without damaging the door. There's a backing flange that holds the plate against the bolt holes and it has a middle tab to keep if from falling, I was able to lift the plate enough to bend the tab back and release the plate.

Yeah I'm surprised I got it out too.

So Mike & Dave no need to get back to me on the Time-Sert however do you think the machine shop next to you can make a new plate?

btw an inspection camera with a flexible whip is a must have. DeWALT DCT410S1


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[PJ Grady Inc.]

Nice move! It's been a long time since I've repaired one of these and never looked in there with a camera because at that point I didn't have one if they even existed commercialy. I have one now but forgot to consider they could benefit you in this situation. You have me considering spending a weekend probing all the Delorean orifices I can find searching for new access areas and repair techniques. Where do all the hours in a day go anyway? The possibilities are endless. Just goes to show you CAN teach an old dog new tricks.
Rob

Well...No Time-Sert needed here!. Somehow I was able to get the mounting plate out without damaging the door. There's a backing flange that holds the plate against the bolt holes and it has a middle tab to keep if from falling, I was able to lift the plate enough to bend the tab back and release the plate.

Yeah I'm surprised I got it out too.

So Mike & Dave no need to get back to me on the Time-Sert however do you think the machine shop next to you can make a new plate?

btw an inspection camera with a flexible whip is a must have. DeWALT DCT410S1


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