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Thread: VIN 10201 Thread

  1. #11
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    786

    My VIN:    10201

    Found the fuse box info... Multiple incorrect fuses used in mine

  2. #12
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    786

    My VIN:    10201

    Got all of the correct fuses in now. Ive been working trying to remove the rear bumper and having troubles with it. I found this and numbered it for reference.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    1.Remove engine cover latch plate
    2.Disconnect latch cable
    3.Remove side markers and disconnect bulb wires (N7 screws)
    4.Remove coil cover and disconnect black bulkhead connector
    5.Remove all the nuts from the studs in the fascia going through the muffler heat shield (in my case these are bolts and nuts) (M6 bolts/nuts)
    6.Remove nuts connecting fascia to the fenders down low (these are also bolts and nuts for me) (M6 bolts/nuts)
    7.Remove Taillights (M5 bolts)
    8,Remove any bolts going through fascia support piece into the pontoon (may require removal of carbon canister and intake hose) (usually M6 bolts)
    9.Remove bolts going to fascia mounting L brackets (M8 bolts)
    I got 4,6,7 and 9. Im pretty sure I got 8. I think all that's left that's holding it on are the bolts from 5. The bulk head connector is still zip tied to the engine bay and I can't figure out how to disconnect the latch cable. Im also not sure what 3 is referring to.

    I also removed the engine cover to see if I could find a way to patch the breaks from the bracket. A lot of my bolts are rusted, some shearing off, so I plan on replacing them with some stainless steel ones. That way Ill have to worry about rust even less.

  3. #13
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Crystal Lake IL

    Posts:    5,016

    My VIN:    05429

    Quote Originally Posted by mr_maxime View Post
    Got all of the correct fuses in now. Ive been working trying to remove the rear bumper and having troubles with it. I found this and numbered it for reference.



    I got 4,6,7 and 9. Im pretty sure I got 8. I think all that's left that's holding it on are the bolts from 5. The bulk head connector is still zip tied to the engine bay and I can't figure out how to disconnect the latch cable. Im also not sure what 3 is referring to.

    I also removed the engine cover to see if I could find a way to patch the breaks from the bracket. A lot of my bolts are rusted, some shearing off, so I plan on replacing them with some stainless steel ones. That way Ill have to worry about rust even less.
    Remove the small metal cover and the cable should be pretty obvious. You can unbolt the entire latch mechanism and pull it through the access hole.


    #3 is the red marker lights in the quarter panels. The wires and bulbs will come out the back with the fascia.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

  4. #14
    Senior Member
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    Location:  West Sayville, N.Y.

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    You should replace all your fuses as all but the first are original and they melt/overheat as they oxidize. You fan circuit breakers are also original and are likely failing. Your coolant sender/otterstat in the other picture is leaking and it's usually because the sender housing has cracked from corrosion within which will also stop the fans. Replace both the sender and the seal.

    Your L/H upper control arm is so rusted if you have it glass beaded there wont be much left! You should probably replace both upper arms as they are not overly expensive. The lowers are expensive so it would pay to have those restored IF they are structuraly strong enough. They should be removed, glass beaded, inspected and powdercoated if they are reusable. Fit all new bushings. The original balljoints are high quality and may be reusable depending on wear and mileage. If they don't move easily (meaning not loose....there should be "stiction" before movement) and have no inner rust they can be used with new boots.

    Your brakes, steering, suspension, cooling system, etc. have to be as good as new (preferably better as in improved over stock) before you even contemplate a ditterent high output motor. This car needs a full restoration before you could do a V8 conversion safely. We can assist you with parts or service or even a V8 conversion when/if the time comes.
    Rob Grady



    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    It looks like you are missing the front end recall reinforcing brackets. Kit is here:

    http://store.delorean.com/p-10229-fr...ecall-kit.aspx

    I don't see the brackets, not sure about the castle nuts and cotter pins, etc. Can't tell from the photos.



    Given the surface rust on your suspension (front and rear), I would count on needing to get your brakes rebuilt (calipers) and fluid flushed. Perhaps the rotors will need turning too.

    Not sure about the steering rack, a closer inspection would be recommended. Look for tears in the boots. I'd imagine your tie rod ends and the ball joints maybe in poor shape considering the areas next to them.

    Not sure what that greyish goo is that looks to have dripped down in a couple spots on the front frame?



    The part you mentioned as separating is the door seal:

    http://store.delorean.com/p-10340-ou...eal-front.aspx

    Likely just the glue needs attention. Not a big deal or fix.

    In that same photo, the side finishing metal pieces along the windshield generally meet the top piece flush. Yours is sticking out some, as the top horizontal piece looks too short (which I'd assume is the side piece not flush and not the top piece being too short).

    http://store.delorean.com/p-9322-a-p...nisher-lh.aspx

    It is screwed into place in a couple spots. Yours might just have had a screw fall out. Don't worry, screws fall out all the time. The world is an imperfect place.



    Yea, cracking is no nice. See if you can find the date code on the sidewall and report back. Not that it matters too much as these should likely be replaced after seeing that cracking.



    Yea, important. Charging the battery of course, but if the belt goes, your coolant doesn't flow and you get what you got with the overheat. Rule of thumb is, if you see the battery light come on, pull over immediately. Don't keep going even if you live just a couple more miles away.



    That's the portion of the lower engine cover stay/bracket that is supposed to be attached to the underside of the lower cover. It's not a very amazing design, but yea, it won't work like that.

    See if this image helps you understand how it is supposed to work:

    http://store.delorean.com/c-312-8-4-...ver-lower.aspx

    It's part number 10 on that diagram.



    Take Chris' advice, leave that badboy alone unless you take precautions for asbestos inhalation. That looks to be the one under the catalytic convertor. You have much more of yours left than my car had. Not sure what the going advice is on those in general? Bueller? Bueller?



    That's the otterstat. That's a silly name for the "turn the cooling fans on switch." Hard to say if yours is working, since if it was, the fans would come on when the coolant gets hot, but since your coolant wasn't flowing, it was going to get hot anyway.

    You can replace the seal for that and it likely stops the leak. Your otterstat "tee" is pointed in the proper direction though (down) so that is good. Take note of those leads there as we'll likely be jumpering those in the near future to prove your fans are working.

    http://store.delorean.com/p-6348-coo...otterstat.aspx



    That's no moon, it's a space station. Just kidding, that's not the fuel system, it's your bulkhead connections (electrical) and the cylinder thingy is your ignition coil.

    You have about the cleanest one I've ever seen so bonus marks for that.



    Ok, yea, you can see the engine bay light switch has the connection on the left disconnected. The plunger is supposed to hit into a small little tab and depress the plunger. It might be missing, not sure, maybe that's why it got disconnected?

    http://store.delorean.com/p-9651-lgt-sw-actuator.aspx



    Check your fuses against the colours/sizes that should be in there (the diagram is in the manual and on here in the resources section). There aren't any blue 15 Amp ones on purpose.



    Priority order:
    Alt belt and coolant
    New tires
    Rusty suspension (brake work, ball joints, tie rod ends, front end recall, etc. as mentioned above)
    VOD cleaning can really wait unless you know there is a hole in the engine block waiting there for you. Not wait indefinitely maybe, but it doesn't need to be done right this second. I would get the car running reasonably well and safely and then go after the VOD. You need to take so much apart that if it isn't running well before you start, you'll never figure out what is not right to get it going once you do the reassembly.
    The radio, cigar lighter and speedo are all items that can wait until the crucial ones are done. Speedo seems crucial, but it really isn't on this car.



    Get the car safe and reliable before doing cosmetic stuff or big swaps or changes.

    Or use this to decide: would you rather drive the car when it's less than cosmetically perfect or admire its cosmetic perfection while its stuck in the driveway? Wait on the cosmetic stuff.

  5. #15
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    786

    My VIN:    10201

    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    You should replace all your fuses as all but the first are original and they melt/overheat as they oxidize. You fan circuit breakers are also original and are likely failing. Your coolant sender/otterstat in the other picture is leaking and it's usually because the sender housing has cracked from corrosion within which will also stop the fans. Replace both the sender and the seal.

    Your L/H upper control arm is so rusted if you have it glass beaded there wont be much left! You should probably replace both upper arms as they are not overly expensive. The lowers are expensive so it would pay to have those restored IF they are structuraly strong enough. They should be removed, glass beaded, inspected and powdercoated if they are reusable. Fit all new bushings. The original balljoints are high quality and may be reusable depending on wear and mileage. If they don't move easily (meaning not loose....there should be "stiction" before movement) and have no inner rust they can be used with new boots.

    Your brakes, steering, suspension, cooling system, etc. have to be as good as new (preferably better as in improved over stock) before you even contemplate a ditterent high output motor. This car needs a full restoration before you could do a V8 conversion safely. We can assist you with parts or service or even a V8 conversion when/if the time comes.
    Rob Grady
    Thanks for the input. The V8 swap is way down the road and I agree with getting it good as new. Im wary of driving it even after it gets a new alternator belt. Im pacing myself on parts right now until payday and I will probably need to have this car transported down to Alabama or Georgia in about a month.

    I got the latch cable out. Currently letting some WD-40 soak in the bolts through the heat shield.

    EDIT: Also will need a new market light gasket. Front driver was missing on and bulb rusted into the socket.
    Last edited by mr_maxime; 04-04-2015 at 06:57 PM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    786

    My VIN:    10201

    finally got the rear fascia off


    I think the new plan is to finish replacing alternator belt and put the car back together. Send to DMC dave for inspection, then store until I move back south. I dont really have the time or tools for major mechanical work here in Wisconsin.

    Also is the fan fail light supposed to be constantly on? I think I read in another thread that it being on means the fans are working but off means they arent, because mine have definitely been off the majority of the time.

  7. #17
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Crystal Lake IL

    Posts:    5,016

    My VIN:    05429

    They should not be on. Light on means fan has failed. The blue module needs to be replaced with the recall jumper.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

  8. #18
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    786

    My VIN:    10201

    Will do. i also sent you a PM about the inspection. I got the belt on but cant seem to tighten it enough by myself so a friend is coming over to help.

    I noticed that the stainless on the pontoon was cut. Not sure if this is normal but one of the cuts goes right through. This is on both sides.



    The pieces where the spoiler bolts to the pontoons are both bent. I think the car may have been rear ended at some point. Seems to be the only damaged part, and there were no accidents reported on the Carfax.

  9. #19
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    786

    My VIN:    10201

    Belts are in. Started the car and turned on the AC, my friend said you could somewhat hear the radiator fans turn on. Also while idling my car will bounce between 750rpm to 1100rpm.

  10. #20
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Crystal Lake IL

    Posts:    5,016

    My VIN:    05429

    That cutting is normal on the pontoons. Factory or QAC work to make the body fit together. We see it on many cars.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

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