Found the fuse box info... Multiple incorrect fuses used in mine
Found the fuse box info... Multiple incorrect fuses used in mine
Got all of the correct fuses in now. Ive been working trying to remove the rear bumper and having troubles with it. I found this and numbered it for reference.
I got 4,6,7 and 9. Im pretty sure I got 8. I think all that's left that's holding it on are the bolts from 5. The bulk head connector is still zip tied to the engine bay and I can't figure out how to disconnect the latch cable. Im also not sure what 3 is referring to.
I also removed the engine cover to see if I could find a way to patch the breaks from the bracket. A lot of my bolts are rusted, some shearing off, so I plan on replacing them with some stainless steel ones. That way Ill have to worry about rust even less.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
You should replace all your fuses as all but the first are original and they melt/overheat as they oxidize. You fan circuit breakers are also original and are likely failing. Your coolant sender/otterstat in the other picture is leaking and it's usually because the sender housing has cracked from corrosion within which will also stop the fans. Replace both the sender and the seal.
Your L/H upper control arm is so rusted if you have it glass beaded there wont be much left! You should probably replace both upper arms as they are not overly expensive. The lowers are expensive so it would pay to have those restored IF they are structuraly strong enough. They should be removed, glass beaded, inspected and powdercoated if they are reusable. Fit all new bushings. The original balljoints are high quality and may be reusable depending on wear and mileage. If they don't move easily (meaning not loose....there should be "stiction" before movement) and have no inner rust they can be used with new boots.
Your brakes, steering, suspension, cooling system, etc. have to be as good as new (preferably better as in improved over stock) before you even contemplate a ditterent high output motor. This car needs a full restoration before you could do a V8 conversion safely. We can assist you with parts or service or even a V8 conversion when/if the time comes.
Rob Grady
Thanks for the input. The V8 swap is way down the road and I agree with getting it good as new. Im wary of driving it even after it gets a new alternator belt. Im pacing myself on parts right now until payday and I will probably need to have this car transported down to Alabama or Georgia in about a month.
I got the latch cable out. Currently letting some WD-40 soak in the bolts through the heat shield.
EDIT: Also will need a new market light gasket. Front driver was missing on and bulb rusted into the socket.
Last edited by mr_maxime; 04-04-2015 at 06:57 PM.
finally got the rear fascia off
I think the new plan is to finish replacing alternator belt and put the car back together. Send to DMC dave for inspection, then store until I move back south. I dont really have the time or tools for major mechanical work here in Wisconsin.
Also is the fan fail light supposed to be constantly on? I think I read in another thread that it being on means the fans are working but off means they arent, because mine have definitely been off the majority of the time.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
They should not be on. Light on means fan has failed. The blue module needs to be replaced with the recall jumper.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Will do. i also sent you a PM about the inspection. I got the belt on but cant seem to tighten it enough by myself so a friend is coming over to help.
I noticed that the stainless on the pontoon was cut. Not sure if this is normal but one of the cuts goes right through. This is on both sides.
The pieces where the spoiler bolts to the pontoons are both bent. I think the car may have been rear ended at some point. Seems to be the only damaged part, and there were no accidents reported on the Carfax.
Belts are in. Started the car and turned on the AC, my friend said you could somewhat hear the radiator fans turn on. Also while idling my car will bounce between 750rpm to 1100rpm.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
That cutting is normal on the pontoons. Factory or QAC work to make the body fit together. We see it on many cars.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC