VIN 10201 Thread

[mr_maxime]

Got my car back from DMCMW. The oreilly belt I had on burnt off, probably due to not being tight enough. I drove the 800 mile trip with nearly no issues. The sideskirt started falling off and scraping the road so I had to duct tape it on and the antenna is pretty much dead.

Otherwise, DMC found that the installed fuel pump was incorrect and put a DMC one in. They installed new injectors, fixed my AC which was really needed, put new tires on, and replaced the trailing arm bolts with the inconel ones. I still have to install my new speedo kit, brake pads and a radio I got from my sisters car.

[mr_maxime]

I got my car in Alabama now. I put a new oil pressure sensor on at work. We threw it up on the lift to start taking a crack at the angle drive and I noticed this on the passenger side.



It looks fairly old, dont know how much this impacts the car seeing as how the fiberglass is also damaged. We got as far as trying to take the large nut out, but couldnt get it to budge before we gave up. Then on my drive home in the dark, I hit a large piece of truck tire I couldnt see. The car stopped getting gas and I had to pull over. I turned it off and i tried turning it back on, but it just cranks. It doesnt sound like the fuel pump is running. It wouldnt start last saturday, but after talking to DMC Dave, I checked the connections and tapped the RPM relay. This seemed to work since it started. I tried the same on the side of the road, but it was a no go. As far as I can tell, there doesnt seem to be much damage. The passenger horn got knocked higher up and there are some tire marks on the body. The fuses are all good too.

My guess is that the impact knocked something loosed or maybe the RPM relay is toast. Also the weatherstripping on the right door is now leaking. There was a torrent of rain on Monday and the passenger side is still wet.

[andy blackmon]

I live just north of Bham. I have replaced or worked on almost every part of a Delorean 33years of owning has made me a fair hand with these cars.If you need a hand with anything or advice let me know, i will be glad to help .PM me and i will give you a phone number . I like the paint job. Andy B

[bfloyd]

If you hit that chunk of truck tire hard enough to do some damage to the horns, I'd almost bet you popped the inertia switch under the dash. It's job is to cut off the fuel pump. Find the switch under the dash and check to see if the plunger is popped up . If it is, push it back down and try to start the car .

[mr_maxime]

I checked the inertia switch and the plunger was down. I pulled it up and pushed it back down to make sure

[mr_maxime]

DMCMW Dave suggested I take out the inertia switch and jump the black wires together. While doing that I noticed that the inertia switch wasnt even plugged in and the wires were already jumped.

[mr_maxime]

I got the relay update from DMC and changed them all out. The car still isnt starting. We checked power to the fuel pump and ignition coil. I dont think we got a reading on from the plug to the pump, but we could feel it pumping to the engine. The coil did have power, but the spark plugs would not spark. My coworker called it a night and I started taking out the radio.

[Andrew]

I got the relay update from DMC and changed them all out. The car still isnt starting. We checked power to the fuel pump and ignition coil. I dont think we got a reading on from the plug to the pump, but we could feel it pumping to the engine. The coil did have power, but the spark plugs would not spark. My coworker called it a night and I started taking out the radio.

Sounds like an issue between the ignition control module and the distributor. First of all, check fuse 1, if that is good check the yellowish plug near the driver's side firewall. It may have come loose if the retaining clip is missing. Next check the resistance in your distributor pulse coil, this can be accomplished by unplugging the distributor pulse wire at the yellowish plug and measuring the resistance between the two leads. It should be at .5 OHM. If there is an open circuit or no resistance the pulse coil or the wire leading to the distributor has failed.

Off the top of my head I can't recall the procedure for checking the ignition control module. While failures of the ICM have been documented, it is pretty rare.

[mr_maxime]

I get 600ohms checking the leads on the yellow part and open circuit on the white part.

[DMCMW Dave]

I get 600ohms checking the leads on the yellow part and open circuit on the white part.

Sounds about right. The white part is the input to the ECU, careful what you feed in there as it's very low voltage normally.

If you can't find any obvious missing/wrong voltages, this is where a buddy with another car comes in handy to start borrowing expensive parts (ECUs) to test.

ECU failure is rare, it is still most likely that you have a bad connection in a harness connector. You need to get a schematic and start tracing out the ignition system looking for a voltage that isn't where it is supposed to be. At some point it comes to old fashioned circuit tracing and/or parts substitution.