Waking the car up from a nap

[OverlandMan]

So if anyone has been following for the past year and a half, I've been slowly rebuilding and cleaning the entire fuel system in 5482. I believe I have literally touched every component in this system.

• Cleaned the fuel tank
• New fuel pump, boot, baffle screen, & rubber lines
• Fresh gas
• New DPI fuel line kit
• Cleaned injectors & flow tested
• New injector rubber seals
• New copper crush washers
• New fuel filter
• New fuel accumulator
• Fixed stuck plunger in fuel distributor
• New banjo bolts
• New injector clips

I also replaced these components in the engine compartment:

• Spark plugs
• Ignition wires
• Distributor cap & rotor

Up until Saturday, the car had not run since September 2013. A couple weeks back, I tried to crank it up but couldn't get it to run or even try. Turns out my old fuel pump died (thud sound when powering). I replaced that and jumped the RPM relay to prime the system for a few seconds. Now I can get it to run (It's alive!) for a few seconds and then it immediately dies. I can repeat the process for what seems indefinitely. The car will run for a few seconds, then die.

In pondering this a bit, my initial thoughts are maybe the RPM relay is failing and not keeping the fuel pump running? I should be able to jump it and test that theory. If that's not it, another thought I had was maybe the new DMCH intake hose in the tank is collapsing? I recall hearing members using a screen door spring to keep that line from collapsing.

I thought I'd see what you guys thought in addition to my two initial theories. It seems like a fuel delivery issue since I can get it to run for a few seconds every time I try to start it up. I would think oxygen and spark can be eliminated here. What say you guys?

[David T]

So if anyone has been following for the past year and a half, I've been slowly rebuilding and cleaning the entire fuel system in 5482. I believe I have literally touched every component in this system.

• Cleaned the fuel tank
• New fuel pump, boot, baffle screen, & rubber lines
• Fresh gas
• New DPI fuel line kit
• Cleaned injectors & flow tested
• New injector rubber seals
• New copper crush washers
• New fuel filter
• New fuel accumulator
• Fixed stuck plunger in fuel distributor
• New banjo bolts
• New injector clips

I also replaced these components in the engine compartment:

• Spark plugs
• Ignition wires
• Distributor cap & rotor

Up until Saturday, the car had not run since September 2013. A couple weeks back, I tried to crank it up but couldn't get it to run or even try. Turns out my old fuel pump died (thud sound when powering). I replaced that and jumped the RPM relay to prime the system for a few seconds. Now I can get it to run (It's alive!) for a few seconds and then it immediately dies. I can repeat the process for what seems indefinitely. The car will run for a few seconds, then die.

In pondering this a bit, my initial thoughts are maybe the RPM relay is failing and not keeping the fuel pump running? I should be able to jump it and test that theory. If that's not it, another thought I had was maybe the new DMCH intake hose in the tank is collapsing? I recall hearing members using a screen door spring to keep that line from collapsing.

I thought I'd see what you guys thought in addition to my two initial theories. It seems like a fuel delivery issue since I can get it to run for a few seconds every time I try to start it up. I would think oxygen and spark can be eliminated here. What say you guys?

Sounds like it is running on the cold start valve and when it shuts off the motor stops. Try holding the air sensor plate down a little when it starts to see if you can keep it running. You might need a slight adjustment to the mixture screw. To see if the RPM relay is the problem jump it out temporarily.

[OverlandMan]

Sounds like it is running on the cold start valve and when it shuts off the motor stops. Try holding the air sensor plate down a little when it starts to see if you can keep it running. You might need a slight adjustment to the mixture screw. To see if the RPM relay is the problem jump it out temporarily.

That's something I hadn't thought of and would make sense. I'll have to enlist a helper because I don't have enough time between the key turn and the motor quitting to get out and to the back of the car to accomplish. I test this out ASAP and post the results.

If it turns out I do have to hold the mixture plate down to keep it running, you're saying it would be a mixture screw adjustment in order to correct? Any further details on that would be great.

When I was flow testing the injectors, I had to press down on the plate in order to get them to spray, which is normal operation. How does this (the fuel dist, air plate, etc.) work at startup under normal conditions?

[DMCMW Dave]

That's something I hadn't thought of and would make sense. I'll have to enlist a helper because I don't have enough time between the key turn and the motor quitting to get out and to the back of the car to accomplish. I test this out ASAP and post the results.

If it turns out I do have to hold the mixture plate down to keep it running, you're saying it would be a mixture screw adjustment in order to correct? Any further details on that would be great.

When I was flow testing the injectors, I had to press down on the plate in order to get them to spray, which is normal operation. How does this (the fuel dist, air plate, etc.) work at startup under normal conditions?

You should set the CO so that nothing comes out of the injectors with the plate at rest, but they start flowing at the tiniest pressure. That should be within a half turn of where it should be.

[OverlandMan]

You should set the CO so that nothing comes out of the injectors with the plate at rest, but they start flowing at the tiniest pressure. That should be within a half turn of where it should be.

I think that's how it's set now. It ran well back in the day and I didn't make any changes.

So if Dave T's theory is that the cold start is starting the engine but then it dies... what would be causing that (assuming pressing down on the air plate does keep it running)?

[SS Spoiler]

Ballest resistors?

[David T]

Ballest resistors?

That is also a strong possibility, since the engine quits as soon as you stop cranking. Actually it would be a connection on the second part (the bypassed part of the ballast resistor during starting) that would be the problem. I suggested fuel first as the more likely culprit but it could be electrical. That's why I asked him to try holding the sensor plate. If that makes ANY difference then it means it is a fuel problem. Although DMCW Dave is right about getting the adjustment close, that assumes the frequency valve is working too. If it isn't then you would be running very lean and pushing on the air sensor plate should be enough to keep it running. That would tell us there is some kind of a problem with the fuel system. Since it is a very easy thing to do (it requires NO tools or extensive knowledge) I suggested it (it does require a helper!).

[DMCMW Dave]

Ballest resistors?

Good call.

Usually this symptom is plugged injectors or fuel distributor.

The key is if you can make it run by pressing the plate, if that doesn't work either check the electrics as Paul mentioned.

[OverlandMan]

Good call.

Usually this symptom is plugged injectors or fuel distributor.

The key is if you can make it run by pressing the plate, if that doesn't work either check the electrics as Paul mentioned.

I performed 2 tests tonight.

1. Jumped the RPM relay and tried starting
2. Pushed down on the air plate about 1/4 down and tried starting

Niether problem seemed to have any affect. The car tries to run for a second or two at most and that's it. I also went through and checked all my fuses, which were fine.

Is there a test I can do on the ballast resistor to check to see if it's bad? I'm guessing I should be able to take an Ohm reading or something with a multi-meter.

Worth mentioning, when I first got it running on Saturday, it ran for 15-20 seconds before it died, then just started doing the 1-3 run then die symptom. This makes me think the injectors and fuel dist are probably ok?

[Jonathan]

Is there a test I can do on the ballast resistor to check to see if it's bad? I'm guessing I should be able to take an Ohm reading or something with a multi-meter.

Double check the connections are where they should be on the ballast resistor and the ignition coil under the bulkhead cover. Not underestimating your abilities, Jeff, just thinking of an oversight I made not long ago. I got checking connections and cleaning up the area and flat out left one of the ignition coil wires unplugged initially. Might be as simple as one of the connections isn't right. Post a pic or two of those two areas if you want someone else to look it over for you online.