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Thread: VIN 2203 "barn find"

  1. #11
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Illinois

    Posts:    2,440

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)

    Quote Originally Posted by Timebender View Post
    Maybe the PO swapped the front and back tires...
    Kinda difficult to fit a 14 in tire on a 15in rim and visa versa...

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
    [email protected]
    lsdelorean.com
    I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.

  2. #12
    Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech RamblinDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2015

    Location:  Farmington Hills MI

    Posts:    359

    My VIN:    2203

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    So I have a few quick questions that maybe some of you guys might be able to help me with.
    I've grown up working on cars vastly different than a DeLorean, this is a new venture for me haha.
    My previous restoration was a 1953 Ford Coupe with a flathead V8, so things that are DeLorean specific will take some time to figure out.

    My first batch of questions:
    Firstly, the binnacle is cracked on my car, is it possible to recover it in vinyl?
    I read the pdf on fixing the warping on the bumper, that's not too much of an issue anymore, however they it will need to be repainted. Does anyone have a paint code for the bumpers?
    Since the car has been sitting since '96 the gas tank is probably full of nasty old gas. What's the best way to clean it out?
    What are the most cost effective ways of getting the most horsepower from the stock motor?
    I've seen the Stage I exhaust, various turbo kits, Stage II upgrades, ect., but I don't know the best route to go. I really like the idea of adding turbos though.
    Has anyone had issues when lowering the car with the upgraded suspensions kits? I plan on doing that as well.
    My car also needs a lot of interior work, is DMCH the only source for interior pieces?
    And lastly, what is the best source for the gas struts for the louvers/front hood/doors? I've seen several sources for them.

    It's going to be a few months before I can start to seriously work on the car. I'm leaving in a few days for Detroit to work for GM. So for now, I'm trying to figure out my budget for the repair work.
    Thanks!
    Jayce

  3. #13
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    1,243

    My VIN:    10201

    While I don't know many answers to what you asked I can offer some info I learned with mine. You'll most likely need the relay update kit. I'd also check all of the fuses. I know some people have had theirs melt. Mine were almost all incorrect. I'm also assuming you'll need tires and dmcmw told me they go with 225 instead of 235 in the rear. Thatll open you up to some matching tires.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Dangermouse's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Atlanta OTP GA

    Posts:    7,084

    My VIN:    2743

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)

    Quote Originally Posted by RamblinDMC View Post
    So I have a few quick questions that maybe some of you guys might be able to help me with.
    I've grown up working on cars vastly different than a DeLorean, this is a new venture for me haha.
    My previous restoration was a 1953 Ford Coupe with a flathead V8, so things that are DeLorean specific will take some time to figure out.

    My first batch of questions:
    Firstly, the binnacle is cracked on my car, is it possible to recover it in vinyl?
    I read the pdf on fixing the warping on the bumper, that's not too much of an issue anymore, however they it will need to be repainted. Does anyone have a paint code for the bumpers?
    Since the car has been sitting since '96 the gas tank is probably full of nasty old gas. What's the best way to clean it out?
    What are the most cost effective ways of getting the most horsepower from the stock motor?
    I've seen the Stage I exhaust, various turbo kits, Stage II upgrades, ect., but I don't know the best route to go. I really like the idea of adding turbos though.
    Has anyone had issues when lowering the car with the upgraded suspensions kits? I plan on doing that as well.
    My car also needs a lot of interior work, is DMCH the only source for interior pieces?
    And lastly, what is the best source for the gas struts for the louvers/front hood/doors? I've seen several sources for them.

    It's going to be a few months before I can start to seriously work on the car. I'm leaving in a few days for Detroit to work for GM. So for now, I'm trying to figure out my budget for the repair work.
    Thanks!
    Jayce
    Congrats again Jayce

    For your questions, Search is your friend as there are multiple threads on most if not all of them

    Yes, the binnacle is repairable with filler & vinyl, finished product obviously dependant on skill
    Paint codes : http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?349-Paint-Codes
    Gas tank - empty tank with cheap pump, clean out thoroughly with acetone (need small arms or some sort of improvides tool.
    Engine HP - everyones opinion of cost vs benefit is different. General advice is to get it running as stock and see if you really need it. 130HP isn't too bad as it is a light car, and it will depend on how you want to use the car. There are several threads in the "custom" section about various turbo/DPI/EFI upgrades. Does your engine even turn over (manually, I mean?)
    No real issues with lowering, but of course that is dependent on how low, and what size tires you put on it.
    DMCx are the best source for the majority of interior parts. Selected non-OEM parts, like shift plates, can be got at other places. DPI keep a stock of SS trim items too.
    Struts for the hood/louver can be got anywhere (DMCx/DPI/SpecialT) without any issue. Door strut performance can be an issue based on climate. (Personally I have a set from SpecialT and they have worked well, but others have had differing experiences)


    Good luck

    engine and interior pics would be appreciated too, btw
    Last edited by Dangermouse; 05-21-2015 at 02:18 PM. Reason: begging for photos
    Dermot
    VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320

    I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans

    http://www.will-to-live.org

    No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"

  5. #15
    Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech RamblinDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2015

    Location:  Farmington Hills MI

    Posts:    359

    My VIN:    2203

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it! It's going to be around three months before I come back from Michigan, so for now I'm going to start researching and purchasing some parts.
    I'll get some engine and interior pics ASAP.


    Thanks again!

  6. #16
    Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech RamblinDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2015

    Location:  Farmington Hills MI

    Posts:    359

    My VIN:    2203

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Just placed an order for some new hood/louver/door struts.

    I'm also considering powder coating the wheels in the early production dark gray. I like how it matches the facias.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Jimmyvonviggle's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Calgary

    Posts:    982

    My VIN:    3028

    Quote Originally Posted by RamblinDMC View Post
    Just placed an order for some new hood/louver/door struts.

    I'm also considering powder coating the wheels in the early production dark gray. I like how it matches the facias.
    Funny I never made that connection before, I wonder if that was actually the intention?
    Barry

  8. #18
    Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech RamblinDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2015

    Location:  Farmington Hills MI

    Posts:    359

    My VIN:    2203

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    The color is fairly close, it might even be the same color.
    You guys think it's better to repaint them to the correct silver or go with the darker color? My car does have all of the other early production features: (grooved hood, gas flap, console clock, ect.)

  9. #19
    DeLorean owner since 2011 Stainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Syracuse, UT

    Posts:    634

    My VIN:    2087

    Quote Originally Posted by RamblinDMC View Post
    The color is fairly close, it might even be the same color.
    You guys think it's better to repaint them to the correct silver or go with the darker color? My car does have all of the other early production features: (grooved hood, gas flap, console clock, ect.)
    Unless you want to keep it like it came from the factory, the color of the wheels is a personal preference. If you like the darker wheels, I say go for it. What's better is each man's opinion. For example, I personally prefer the lighter wheels, but that is also the original color as my VIN is 2087, not too far from yours.
    Jared L.

    June '81, manual, black inter. VIN 2087
    Other cars: 2012 Toyota Sienna, 2007 Mazda 6, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
    DeLorean blog: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hopkins, MN

    Posts:    328

    My VIN:    1121

    Club(s):   (DOA) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by RamblinDMC View Post
    The color is fairly close, it might even be the same color.
    You guys think it's better to repaint them to the correct silver or go with the darker color? My car does have all of the other early production features: (grooved hood, gas flap, console clock, ect.)
    I'm partial to the dark gray, too. However, I do prefer to keep things that were optional on the car VIN correct. I wouldn't put a different hood or different colored wheels on MY car. I would do aftermarket improvements, though; sort of a purist, I guess. That's me and my car, though. If I were you I'd do whatever you want to with your car... again, I'm partial to the dark gray wheels.

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