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Thread: VIN 4728 Running Resto

  1. #441
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,319

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Now take a Dremel cutoff wheel and cut the rest of the rivets off flush with the stainless. The remaining parts will rattle around in the door for a while.
    Let the rattling begin! lol

    Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
    Livin' the dream....

  2. #442
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,319

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Roof box is secured and I adjusted the doors with Grady struts...very nice dampening effect at the top.

    I removed old silicone to paint & reseal. The infill panel was sealed to where it meets the underbody, I'm wondering if that was overkill, or should I reseal as it was?

    Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
    Livin' the dream....

  3. #443
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

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    My VIN:    <2000

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Roof box is secured and I adjusted the doors with Grady struts...very nice dampening effect at the top.

    I removed old silicone to paint & reseal. The infill panel was sealed to where it meets the underbody, I'm wondering if that was overkill, or should I reseal as it was?

    Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
    Nice job! I would re-seal the infill panel as it was.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  4. #444
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,319

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Nice job! I would re-seal the infill panel as it was.
    Good call...last night & tonight I removed the infill panels (to replace the lower strut mount plates) and saw why the sealer is necessary: the rivet holes.

    I have everything reassembled and will begin resealing this week. Replacing my bent mounts made a noticeable difference!
    Last edited by Rich_NYS; 07-29-2019 at 11:59 PM.
    Livin' the dream....

  5. #445
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,319

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Let the rattling begin! lol
    I changed my mind about the rivet pieces in the door; I used a shop-vac followed by a long piece of very sticky aluminum tape folded lengthwise in thirds. It was like using sheet metal fly paper....worked great.



    I also reinstalled the windshield trim and decided to change my usual MO of doing everything I can "while in there."

    The summer is half gone and my car sat for almost 2 weeks. My mission this year is to put miles on my car, so I'm going to put everything back together and will "go back in" another time.

    Securing the roof box and door adjustment snowballed into: inspect/clean/paint the roofbox interior, roof seals, outer seals, lower door seals, lower strut mount brackets, strip & paint windshield trim, new dome lights, repaint/reseal everything I encounter, replace screws...etc.

    As much I like the easy small projects and work efficiently & meticulously, I need to prioritize drive time during the very short NYS driving season.

    So....I'll be hitting the road asap with no roof seals, no outer seals, things not re-silicone-sealed & re-painted, and no headliner. I'll stay out of the rain and finish things a little at a time instead of all at once so I can enjoy driving the car.
    Livin' the dream....

  6. #446
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,319

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Last night I fixed a vacuum leak, tonight I tuned the carb and went for a drive....runs great and plenty of HP.
    Livin' the dream....

  7. #447
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,319

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    I need to connect another "lighter socket" to power a dash cam...where can I connect to existing wiring without making a mess?

    Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
    Livin' the dream....

  8. #448
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    2,048

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Id go off the radio power, if you're in the mood to pull the center console, that is.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Website
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    My Patreon
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  9. #449
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,319

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    I had my car up on stands today, checking my transfer case fluid and looking for the source of a brake noise (I've since determined I think I need anti-rattle clips.)

    I noticed the bolts for the axle shaft were all loose....some were coming out. I had replaced them with allen head bolts from McMaster. I know others have done this as well, but haven't heard of an issue. I don't have lock washers on them, but the stock bolts didn't either. Does anyone here have the allen head type, and did you install lock washers?
    Livin' the dream....

  10. #450
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,109

    My VIN:    6125

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    I had my car up on stands today, checking my transfer case fluid and looking for the source of a brake noise (I've since determined I think I need anti-rattle clips.)

    I noticed the bolts for the axle shaft were all loose....some were coming out. I had replaced them with allen head bolts from McMaster. I know others have done this as well, but haven't heard of an issue. I don't have lock washers on them, but the stock bolts didn't either. Does anyone here have the allen head type, and did you install lock washers?
    I think you sent me a set of allen head bolts as well since you had extra during your rebuild. I haven't gotten around to installing them...

    In general, split lock washers do almost nothing to prevent fasteners from loosening up so I wouldn't bother with those. In this case I'd probably go with some blue loctite instead.

    If I'm remembering correctly the allen head bolts were phosphate and oil coated which may have contributed the the bolts loosening up. Before you reinstall them you could hit them with a shot of brake parts cleaner to remove the oil. If you don't want them to rust over you can spray just the heads with some matte finish black paint to keep them looking nice.
    Mark Dehlinger

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