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Thread: VIN 4728 Running Resto

  1. #291
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,511

    My VIN:    4519

    Progress:

    Car is running & driving again, so the big stuff should now be out of the way.

    I'm working on changing the steering wheel & directional assembly, but the wheel is stuck. The air chisel method isn't working, so I pulled the column and propped it upright to allow ATF/acetone to creep into the splines Hopefully today is a better day.



    I need to change the rear brake hoses, then bleed the system. I haven't yet found a cap for my pressure bleeder, so last night I came up with this:

    IMG_3775.jpg

  2. #292
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,470

    My VIN:    6125

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Progress:

    Car is running & driving again, so the big stuff should now be out of the way.

    I'm working on changing the steering wheel & directional assembly, but the wheel is stuck. The air chisel method isn't working, so I pulled the column and propped it upright to allow ATF/acetone to creep into the splines Hopefully today is a better day.



    I need to change the rear brake hoses, then bleed the system. I haven't yet found a cap for my pressure bleeder, so last night I came up with this:

    IMG_3775.jpg
    Ha! That's awesome...talk about using what you've got on hand... that looks like an old water pump coolant hose, right?

  3. #293
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,511

    My VIN:    4519

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    Ha! That's awesome...talk about using what you've got on hand... that looks like an old water pump coolant hose, right?
    Yep.....see what you inspired? Haha.....I bet even Steve couldn't redneck a better solution than that!

  4. #294
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Mar 2014

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    490

    My VIN:    04194: 5-Speed, Black Int, 79 Peugeot 604 Manifold, 05052: 5-Speed, Gray Int, 78 Peugeot 604 manifol

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Progress:

    Car is running & driving again, so the big stuff should now be out of the way.

    I'm working on changing the steering wheel & directional assembly, but the wheel is stuck. The air chisel method isn't working, so I pulled the column and propped it upright to allow ATF/acetone to creep into the splines Hopefully today is a better day.



    I need to change the rear brake hoses, then bleed the system. I haven't yet found a cap for my pressure bleeder, so last night I came up with this:

    IMG_3775.jpg
    The steering wheel is a pressed tapered fit. The best way to get it off without breaking anything or knocking a tooth out is to use a steering wheel puller. You'll need two long bolts to thread into the wheel and washers. IIRC they are M8, but check the forums to be sure. I used and air hammer quite a bit with no results. Once I gave in and bought the steering wheel puller, I had the wheel off in 30 seconds :-)
    Last edited by Andrew; 02-20-2017 at 10:30 AM.
    Andrew
    4194 Since 7/98
    5052 Since 7/14

    1972 Buick Riviera
    1974 Bricklin SV-1 177
    1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (4.2 I6, 4 Speed)
    1983 Pontiac Trans Am (Knight Rider Conversion in progress)
    1985 Oldsmobile Toronado (daily driver)

    Solex carb and antenna television guru.

    "My carbon footprint is bigger than yours!" :-)

  5. #295
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,511

    My VIN:    4519

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
    The steering wheel is a pressed tapered fit. The best way to get it off without breaking anything or knocking a tooth out is to use a steering wheel puller. You'll need two long bolts to thread into the wheel and washers. IIRC they are M8, but check the forums to be sure. I used and air hammer quite a bit with no results. Once I gave in and bought the steering wheel puller, I had the wheel off in 30 seconds :-)
    Thanks Andrew, the air hammer isn't working. I'm going to get a puller and try to figure out what to do about bolts....probably tap the holes bigger as Dave M suggests.

  6. #296
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,005

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
    The steering wheel is a pressed tapered fit. The best way to get it off without breaking anything or knocking a tooth out is to use a steering wheel puller. You'll need two long bolts to thread into the wheel and washers. IIRC they are M8, but check the forums to be sure. I used and air hammer quite a bit with no results. Once I gave in and bought the steering wheel puller, I had the wheel off in 30 seconds :-)
    I'm pretty sure the wheel threads are M6 which is why they often pull the threads. Twice I have had to drill and tap to a larger 5/16" bolt.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #297
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,511

    My VIN:    4519

    This steering wheel is a pain in the ass; I pulled the m6 threads, and now trying to tap 5/16 threads.

    If this doesn't go well, I'm going to post a pic of a steering wheel cut into two pieces.

  8. #298
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,005

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    This steering wheel is a pain in the ass; I pulled the m6 threads, and now trying to tap 5/16 threads.

    If this doesn't go well, I'm going to post a pic of a steering wheel cut into two pieces.
    Put some torque on the bolts and then tap (with a hammer) the bolt that is pressing on the center column stud. Keep adding more torque and keep tapping that bolt and it should break free.
    Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 02-20-2017 at 04:03 PM.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #299
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,005

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Put some torque on the bolts and then tap (with a hammer) the bolt that is pressing on the center column stud. Keep adding more torque and keep tapping that bolt and it should break free.
    I forgot to state that the "bolts" in the wheel you want to have those fully seated as far as they go. Then you use the nut on the bolt to add torque.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #300
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,511

    My VIN:    4519

    Thanks Dave,

    I finally got it....thanks for stayin' in the game with me.

    I think your advice to tap to a bigger size appears to be a "must do" for a stubborn wheel like this one.


    It's still in one piece...I'll be listing it for sale soon.


    Soooo....now I think I really am past all the hard stuff and should make my goal of being ready & waiting for driving season.

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