Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
Today I continued prepping my frame. I used a wire wheel, flap wheel, sander, and phosphoric acid.
100_4784.jpg 100_4794.jpg 100_4796.jpg
I also did a "partial frame-off" to access the area of the frame rail I haven't been able to reach (where the A/C hoses are.)
-I kept jack stands at all 4 lift points.
-Added jack stands to the frame in the rear (at the engine cradle.)
-Supported the front of the frame with a jack.
-Removed all but the 4 rearmost body bolts.
-Slowly lowered the front of the frame a few inches.
The gap between the underbody & frame rail opened just enough so I could clean out the peeled epoxy. I wasn't able to feather the edge of the good epoxy, but I'll be able to do a good job coating it w/POR-15 and a topcoat. I didn't get any pics while it was separated, but I'll be doing it again when I paint and will get some pics then.
Last edited by Rich_NYS; 11-21-2015 at 06:01 PM.
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Rich,
If there were actually a screw or something similar down inside one of the cylinders, don't you think it would have a much more violent and engine destroying impact than a ticking or knocking sound?
I just mean with that cylinder head going up and down 1,000 times per minute or more, regardless of whether that screw or piece of something was above or below, I'd expect it to do some serious damage to an engine and not just something you can hear.
I'm trying to say that even if you don't get the camera down in there to look, I would find it hard to believe there is something substantial like that in there causing you problems.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
I agree, and said the same thing to my Dad (experienced mechanic) who told me it would depend on exactly where the foreign object would be, and that it could get embedded in the face of the piston. He also mentioned something called "carbon knock" that he has seen in the past, and that it causes a noise similar to what I have.
I wasn't expecting to see much, but since I was able to get a camera, I figured: "why not?"
Carbon build up was a big problem back with leaded gas. Not so much these days.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
Whew...got it today.
I welded a nut on the end of the stud(thanks Ron,) but it still wouldn't budge. Also, I could feel it "flexing" so I added vice-grips to it. Still no-go, so I sprayed & tapped on it with a hammer a while, then held an ice cube on it (laugh if you must -lol.) After working "back & forth" I finally felt it move a bit. Repeatedly spraying, working, icing seemed to be the winning combo.
Victory!
100_4805.jpg
You can buy a can of freeze spray. I used that stuff for finding intermittent in electronics troubleshooting. Basically all that can does is pump liquid R134 out of the nozzle.
http://www.dalco.com/p-2506-max-pro-...FckYHwodYr4FQw
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
Thanks Dave. Andrew mentioned it last week, that's what made me think if the ice cube -haha! I thought I had a can of Dust-Off I was going to try, but didn't find it so I went old-school with the ice -lol!
I should probably keep a can of that freeze spray on hand, might be useful for the Y-Pipe bolts.
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 2,208
My VIN: 4877
Club(s): (PNDC)
Things like that are why I'll leave heavy engine work to guys at DMCNW....hehe.
Rob Depew
Tacoma, Wa
'81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
The Ressurection of 4877......
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Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
Roger that!
My first car needed exhaust manifold gaskets so I brought it to a nearby import shop (I think 6-8 studs snapped on that job.)
I decided to do this one myself since the car would be on stands (and partially disassembled) in my garage all Winter, and I want to get the exhaust noise fixed before continuing to diagnose a noise that has been a bit tricky.