Coolant in my engine oil

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Judging from the green residue at each end of Y-pipe connection, it would be a strong indicator of leakage.

Yes the block pipe hoses appear to be leaking heavily. I always change these out to silicone with the proper clamps so you won't need to go back and retighten them after they bed in. Someone has already switched out the hoses once and didn't use silicone apparently (the clamps appear to be the nonslotted style for silicone use strangly enough) judging by their dull appearance or you probably wouldn't have this mess. You should clean and decarbonize the motor and consider changing the dist. cap, rotor, wireset and plugs. A new slave cylinder may also save you grief in the near future as all that stuff looks pretty hammered. Don't forget to consider a new water pump too. It's so much easier to do all these jobs with the mnfd off theat you should strongly consider it. Change all of the fasteners too as they will be corroded. After that you'll have no need to visit the VOD for a very long time provided the block is still solid. A thorough cleanup and pressure test of the cooling system should be done before refitting the manifold.
Rob

[David T]

Yes the block pipe hoses appear to be leaking heavily. I always change these out to silicone with the proper clamps so you won't need to go back and retighten them after they bed in. Someone has already switched out the hoses once and didn't use silicone apparently (the clamps appear to be the nonslotted style for silicone use strangly enough) judging by their dull appearance or you probably wouldn't have this mess. You should clean and decarbonize the motor and consider changing the dist. cap, rotor, wireset and plugs. A new slave cylinder may also save you grief in the near future as all that stuff looks pretty hammered. Don't forget to consider a new water pump too. It's so much easier to do all these jobs with the mnfd off theat you should strongly consider it. Change all of the fasteners too as they will be corroded. After that you'll have no need to visit the VOD for a very long time provided the block is still solid. A thorough cleanup and pressure test of the cooling system should be done before refitting the manifold.
Rob

All of the vendors sell a master water pump kit but what they include can vary. The "while you are in there" can add up. In addition to all that is mentioned in the above post you can also add the idler bearings, the belts, the right upper muffler bracket, the S/S clutch hose, heater valve, all of the hoses (including the little vacuum ones), a S/S header bottle and more if I keep typing. Maybe exhaust manifold gaskets too. If you do your own work you can spend more on parts and get more done. This can grow to become one of the most costly areas but from a reliability standpoint it is one of the most important.

[Josh]

Took a look at the car in question. The coolant in the valley is indeed from the rotted out coolant hoses. The hater pipe is also pretty rusted; there may be a pinhole or two in it.
The coolant in the oil is still a major concern though. The block is solid, so no block rot mixing the leaky coolant with the oil via the upper oil galley. Im thinking a leak down test would be prudent...

[DMCMW Dave]

. Im thinking a leak down test would be prudent...

That finds bad valves or rings. Maybe a head gasket. I still think a cooling system pressure test with the oil drain open would be prudent.

[Farrar]

Oops - wrong thread.

[Josh]

That finds bad valves or rings. Maybe a head gasket. I still think a cooling system pressure test with the oil drain open would be prudent.

that would do the trick! Good advice as usual dave.