DMCH alternator

[Rich_NYS]

Rich, it's Dana not me. The covering is thermal heat protection sleeve.


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Sorry 'bout that, thanks for the info... !

[DMC-81]

Thanks again Dennis. Great info on those tools. I'll have to look for them.

I decided to just use the new connector, instead of risking damage by removing a pin. I tested the brown Duceiller wire for the S connection, and it was successful in turning off the flashing condition with the key on.

Attachment 49210

This is a cleaner setup in my mind, but I realize I'll have to test the voltage difference as described earlier by Ron in post 32 and 36 before I wrap it up permanently.... (It'll be a while until I can start the car again). If it fails this test, I'll connect the red wire to the alternator post.

As far as the testing goes, I'm looking for a greater than 0.5 volt difference between the alternator and the battery at maximum alternator output.

Question: I assume I test with the engine running at a fairly fast idle, and for:
1) the alternator I test at the output post on the back (with the 2 groups of 6 brown wires attached), and:
2) the "battery", I test the voltage at the brown Duceiller wire where I connected it

Is that correct, and are there additional tips? What about lesser alternator output speeds?

What's the downside if the voltage difference is out of spec? Edit: I found the answer to this question in Dave M's post # 31.

Thanks,

I was finally able to test the voltage with my new plug and the "S" wire connected to the original brown Duceiller wire. I got 14.59 volts at the alternator output terminal and 14.53 volts across the battery.

What are your thoughts? Is that a good result?

[Drive Stainless]

I was finally able to test the voltage with my new plug and the "S" wire connected to the original brown Duceiller wire. I got 14.59 volts at the alternator output terminal and 14.53 volts across the battery.

What are your thoughts? Is that a good result?

Sounds great!

[DMC-81]

Sounds great!

Thanks Matt. I measured it at a steady idle (after warm up). I didn't have an assistant to do it at a fast idle but I assume the voltage difference wouldn't creep up dramatically as the RPMs increase due to the built in voltage regulator. Is that a correct assumption or should I test again?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks Matt. I measured it at a steady idle (after warm up). I didn't have an assistant to do it at a fast idle but I assume the voltage difference wouldn't creep up dramatically as the RPMs increase due to the built in voltage regulator. Is that a correct assumption or should I test again?

Your voltage is probably regulating fine. It should not climb much more than 14.6 volts. It's only when you have a lot of load and low RPM that it may fall below that value.