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Senior Member
Question on replacing slave cylinder
I am working from t he top. I have got to old slave out and unhooked. I seem to have plenty of room.
Where I am running into a snag is trying to pry the pin back to get the new one in and I'm having issues, even it a pry bar getting it to push back.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
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EFI'd
Originally Posted by
Justin51982
I am working from t he top. I have got to old slave out and unhooked. I seem to have plenty of room.
Where I am running into a snag is trying to pry the pin back to get the new one in and I'm having issues, even it a pry bar getting it to push back.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
The pin should push the piston into the new slave cylinder, you shouldn't have to push the fork back at all. With the pin rotated up a little bit try pushing the slave cylinder onto the pin, and once the piston pushes in rotate it down in place.
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Senior Member
Getting the slave out was always easier for me when i went at it from below. Granted, you have to practically "hug" the tranny to do so.
Keep in mind, a small pry bar or long handled screwdriver might be necessary to pull the fork back.
Brandon S.
2014 Honda Civic EX
2007 Volvo S60R
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Originally Posted by
Morpheus
Getting the slave out was always easier for me when i went at it from below. Granted, you have to practically "hug" the tranny to do so.
Keep in mind, a small pry bar or long handled screwdriver might be necessary to pull the fork back.
You have to kind of angle the slave cylinder piston end up, fit the pin into it, and then try to lay the cylinder down and in while the pin pushes the piston into the cylinder. Hard to explain AND difficult to do especially since you can't really see what you are doing as you do it. Believe it or not it is easier to do from underneath unless you have the intake manifold off.
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You know what makes it really easy??
getting rid of the stock exhaust crossover pipe..lol.. but yeah i have always done them from underneath the car and just rotated the pin onto the slave..
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Senior Member
I have headers so no stock exhaust pipe. I was able to get it in and fitted. What a miserable job. At least it's done now though. Should have a long time before it has to be done again!!
Thank you everyone. It is really appreciated!
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Originally Posted by
Justin51982
I have headers so no stock exhaust pipe. I was able to get it in and fitted. What a miserable job. At least it's done now though. Should have a long time before it has to be done again!!
Thank you everyone. It is really appreciated!
To ensure that it lasts a long time flush and bleed the brakes and clutch every other year.
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Young Padawan With The DeLorean
IMG_6315.jpgIMG_6314.jpg
Just as a point of reference, here's a good shot with the body removed. I'm going to be doing this soon but I'll have the manifold off. I didn't capture it in the picture but what holds the pin in place? Is there an e-clip on the right side?
Alex Abdalla
6575
Late 1981, Grey 5-speed, 75k miles. Built 11/11/81
A stock-look with modern, reliable technology.
A full restoration with step-by-step "what I did" is in progress at
www.delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com
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Guy with a DeLorean
For what it's worth, I found getting the slave cylinder in and out was made a million times easier with the heater control valve hose disconnected. This is the small hose that runs right above the slave cylinder that connects the RH side cylinder head to the coolant valve. You can either partially drain the coolant beforehand, or you can just disconnect the rubber hose and shove a bolt in there to stop the coolant from continuously leaking out. I was replacing all the rubber hoses in this area on my car anyway so it was a no brainer for me to remove it. It might be a little more up front work but it it saved a lot of frustration trying to get the slave cylinder in and out.
Here's a photo for reference (working from below the car):
As others have said, to install the slave cylinder you rotate the pin on the clutch fork up at around a 45 deg angle so you can slide the slave cylinder on to the pin. Then you pivot the whole thing down together and bolt the slave cylinder in place. It's not possible to get the pin into the slave cylinder with the slave already in the correct spot.
This is where removing that upper hose makes a big difference...with the hose out of the way you have much more clearance to maneuver the slave cylinder around once the pin is inserted.
Last edited by Mark D; 07-21-2015 at 01:47 PM.
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EFI'd
The piston of the slave cylinder has an indentation in it that holds the pin in place on that end.
Originally Posted by
kings1527
Just as a point of reference, here's a good shot with the body removed. I'm going to be doing this soon but I'll have the manifold off. I didn't capture it in the picture but what holds the pin in place? Is there an e-clip on the right side?
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