SEM Trim Black Failure

[DMC5180]

Acetone is acetone. Any brand will do. The brand most often seen in hardware stores is Sunnyvale IIRC.

It means let your intitial coats set up for at least 1 hour before applying the final top coat. You have up to a 24 hour window in which to apply the final coat without the need to scuff prep for adhesion. Basically the initial coats remain in a green stage cure process for the first 24 hrs.

[1batt4u]

So I tested both the SEM primer paint and top coat paint using an HVLP spray gun.

Primer came out great, smooth finish, top coat came out good, but sort of a texture finish. I did buy the aerosol spray cans a few years ago, did some tests and same with that, it came out sort of a texture look.

Is this how these SEM black trim paints always come out?

[mluder]

So I tested both the SEM primer paint and top coat paint using an HVLP spray gun.

Primer came out great, smooth finish, top coat came out good, but sort of a texture finish. I did buy the aerosol spray cans a few years ago, did some tests and same with that, it came out sort of a texture look.

Is this how these SEM black trim paints always come out?

Yep... The trim black definitely has a bit of "texture" to it. As I understand it can be varied depending on the distance you spray from - Farther away = more texture, etc. That being said, a few washes and the texture starts to knock down.

Cheers
Steven

[1batt4u]

Yep... The trim black definitely has a bit of "texture" to it. As I understand it can be varied depending on the distance you spray from - Farther away = more texture, etc. That being said, a few washes and the texture starts to knock down.

Cheers
Steven

I used a cap off a aerosol spray can to pick up the paint from the can and pour into the HVLP spray can. I was looking at the cap with paint all over it and it has a very nice smooth finish, no sort of texture or anything. Looks really good!

I guess it all about adjusting the spray gun and distance. I was actually kinda far, because all the aerosol spray can I use write keep 10-16" away from part when spraying. I thought the same here, but the videos I checked out using a spray gun everyone was so close. Some mentioned about being 5cm(2in) away from part. So I'll test different psi adjustments and go closer.

Thank you!

[cpistocco]

I used a cap off a aerosol spray can to pick up the paint from the can and pour into the HVLP spray can. I was looking at the cap with paint all over it and it has a very nice smooth finish, no sort of texture or anything. Looks really good!

I guess it all about adjusting the spray gun and distance. I was actually kinda far, because all the aerosol spray can I use write keep 10-16" away from part when spraying. I thought the same here, but the videos I checked out using a spray gun everyone was so close. Some mentioned about being 5cm(2in) away from part. So I'll test different psi adjustments and go closer.

Thank you!

The more you reduce the paint, the less "bumpy" it will be....BUT do not over-reduce (It may run or lift your primer). Also, you should never put topcoat directly over a self-etching primer. You need to seal it first.

[mluder]

The more you reduce the paint, the less "bumpy" it will be....BUT do not over-reduce (It may run or lift your primer). Also, you should never put topcoat directly over a self-etching primer. You need to seal it first.

I don't recall the instructions for the primer indicating that... Though Josh does mention earlier in the thread that you do need to scuff the primer with a red scotch-brite prior to topcoat.
I would think a sealer would counteract the purpose of a primer - to give something more mechanical for the top coat to bond to. Can you elaborate?

Cheers
Steven

[1batt4u]

I bought SEM primer. It doesnt mention anything like that. Just to wait 1 hour to 24 hours to topcoat it