Electrical / Power issue to fuel pump

[DMC5180]

Use the Ohms/continuity function on your meter and test the wires like I mentioned earlier. Let us know the number results.

[OutOfTime]

Use the Ohms/continuity function on your meter and test the wires like I mentioned earlier. Let us know the number results.

Sorry, I somehow missed that, I'll give that a try and report back.

[OutOfTime]

Pull the RPM relay and perform an audible continuity test between the FP connector and RPM connector terminals of the white/purple wire. You will probable need to rig up an extended wire lead to span the distance.
Their is one front harness to main harness connector located inside the underbody with the washer fluid tank removed. You may have a poor connection at that connector. Green corrosion syndrome. If you don't get an audible tone it will be due to high resistance. The black/ purple wire should also be continuity checked to ground.

OK... now Im really confused....

I put on the jumper and still no power to the FP.

I tested the continuity off the white/purple wire expecting there to be none... but wow, there was continuity! So now I know the connection is there, but why isnt it being supplied with 12V?

Thanks again guys, you are awesome

[DMC5180]

What was ohms reading. Use auto range if you have it. Also do the black/purple at the FP connector to any ground.

[OutOfTime]

What was ohms reading. Use auto range if you have it. Also do the black/purple at the FP connector to any ground.

Ohms reading was 1.0 when at the 200 level.

There is NO continuity to ground, I ran that back all the way to the battery just to be sure.

[OutOfTime]

For finding a bad connection, you need to leave the load (pump) connected. You will need to make a short jumper with two 1/4" flat pins which you can buy at most auto parts stores. Use 16 AWG wire or larger. You pull the RPM relay connector and plug one end of that jumper into the white/purple wire pin. The other end goes into the brown wire pin. That should power your pump without turning the key on.

Ok, update... I left your jumper on and ran a test ground wire to the battery and plugged the connector onto the fuel pump. It instantly came on

So it seems like I have a bad ground wire.... the question is, can I run a new ground wire from the FP to an anchor point in the front trunk and call it a day? Thank you

Mark

[DMC5180]

Test the voltage of the brown wire at the RPM relay connector too.

[OutOfTime]

Test the voltage of the brown wire at the RPM relay connector too.

When I tested the voltage between the brown wire and the white/purple I got a reading of (-3.40) ... Now I'm really confused but that doesnt take much

[DMC5180]

Just do a simple voltage check of the brown wire. Do not run through the white/purple. We're just doing basic verifications.

Post a photo of your relay/fuse compartment And your ohm meter connected.

[OutOfTime]

Just do a simple voltage check of the brown wire. Do not run through the white/purple. We're just doing basic verifications.

Post a photo of your relay/fuse compartment And your ohm meter connected.

Im sorry, Im a total newb at this.

When I connect one probe to the brown wire and the other to the + battery terminal I get 0.00. To the negative terminal I show -12.65

Mark