4877 Ressurecting a bad girl...

[Domi]

Looking good, does the doors close properly?

[Lwanmtr]

Did you just remove washers to adjust the panels? The front of my doors is lower than the front fenders and my front latch is adjusted as high as the pin will go.

On the driver side I started by removing one washer on the rear cause it was rubbing..but then the pin wouldnt go in at all..so until I get some thinner washers I have it back the way it was. The fenders were already pretty well adjusted to the doors, so I didnt have to remove any of the washers on those.

I think the front pin is about where it needs to be cause any movement seemed to make it not want to work correctly...but i still feel a little bump, even with the rear striker removed.

Looking good, does the doors close properly?

Thanks. Yep, the doors both open and close properly...the driver side can still feel bit of a bump when opening or closing, so i have more work to do there....the passenger side is super smooth (Toby did that one)...If I cant get it I'll just have to wait til I take the car up there for suspension and other stuff and have them do it..hehe.

[DMC5180]

with the Fender to door fit it is a compromise. The factory shimmed the top of the fenders up to match the hood . This causes the fit to the doors to be too high. the only way to get all three to line up is to remove the hood seal. I've been down this road before.


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[Lwanmtr]

Luckily my panels are all lining up just fine...well as fine as a hand built car can be

Its just them striker pins...hehe

[Lwanmtr]

Ok today was...annoying....

Jacked the front end up so I could start cleaning up the surface rust on the frame...got the wheels off..fyi, loosen the lugs prior to lifting the car..luckily I have a ryobi impact drill that was able get them loose..hehe.

Here's some pics...looks pretty good under there, yeah? read on.......

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Even the rotors are looking decent...just some surface rust..no grooves or anything like that...I'll be changing brake pads while the wheels are off this time around..

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Ok..so on to the first order...removing the fuel tank closing plate..went pretty easy..only had to use secret sauce on two of the bolts and even those released quickly..Yaay..or so I thought..wrangled it free and when it finally dropped there was floof of material that dropped out...yikes...I got this...looks messy, eh?

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Ok..here it is after 2 hours of hitting it with a wire wheel and a chisel...looks like the rust has pretty much taken over...Does it look at all salvageable? Guess I'm adding another $300 to my list....

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Popped back under the car to try and get a lil better pics of the frame on that side...looks like its pretty much surface rust there..I'll know more tomorrow after I get in there with the wire wheel.

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Does the closing plate look like it may have been a coolant leak in there? the worst is on the topside of it.

ahh well....

[Nicholas R]

Does the closing plate look like it may have been a coolant leak in there? the worst is on the topside of it.

No, it looks like it had a brake fluid leak. Brake fluid will eat right through the frame and closing plate epoxy completely exposing it like that. With the master cylinder mounted to the firewall right above the closing plate, this type of damage is very common.

[Lwanmtr]

Ahh ok. The brake master looked ok and I hadnt noticed any leaks, but I'll check again when I get back under there later.

[Nicholas R]

Yeah; especially since the majority of the corrosion is on the LH/Drivers side of the inside of the plate; literally right below the brake master cylinder (and clutch master cylinder if it's a manual). I'd put money on it that at some point the car had a leak that went unaddressed for a while.

[Lwanmtr]

Yeah, wasnt even thinking about that thing. maybe otta design a sheild that will sheild everything from the master cylinder. Mines an auto, so no clutch master to worry about.

[Nicholas R]

Yeah, wasnt even thinking about that thing. maybe otta design a sheild that will sheild everything from the master cylinder. Mines an auto, so no clutch master to worry about.

Might not be a bad idea, though once the system is thoroughly vetted, the brake system is pretty reliable. It's usually a master cylinder on a car that's been in storage for decades that starts to leak. For now I'd take the effort and apply it to making sure your brake system is sound.