Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Here are some photos of the new fan fail boards. I'm putting this first one into potting tonight so I can do the same testing for temperature and the same testing I did for fuse blow time with a shorted fan.
Note one MOSFET sits higher than the other because I ran out of board space and had to put an IC under that MOSFET.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
What's the blob in the last photo?
Dennis
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Did a temperature test of the REV C and REV B at 30 amps (15 amps each fan) and results were almost the same.
The hot unit voltage drop on the REV C is 0.0987 volts on one fan and 0.0931 volts on the other. The REV B hot unit drop is 0.1383 volts on one fan and 0.1395 volts on the other. So the REV C is producing less heat via the loads. Now the REV C draws 6 ma. more on it's internal 5 volt power but that would not produce that much heat.
Here is my thought. Since the REV B fuses are not potted into the unit, all that heat does not get into my measurement of temp of the unit.
Still more testing to do.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
I have no clue what you are talking about, but I am definitely interested on this topic. Keep up the good work!
Everyone is tough through a keyboard
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
It was my goal to reduce how hot the fan fail unit gets running high current (OEM) fans. I did reduce the power (total heat generated) but I did not take into account some of heat on the old fan fail unit was in the fuses and not getting transferred to the fan fail unit.
Old fan fail generates 4.17 watts of heat at 30 amps (15 amps each fan). Case temp peaks at 141.4 deg. F
New fan fail generates 2.88 watts of heat at 30 amps (15 amps each fan). Case temp peaks at 140.9 deg. F
Not that the unit running at those temps will make if fail since all my components are rated to work above 185 deg. F. But assuming that 64 deg rise above ambient, if the relay compartment is above 120 deg. F that would bring the unit close to that 185 rating with a worst case of 15 amps on each fan.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
I tested the new and old units at 20 amps (10 amps each fan) and the new REV C peaked at 111.3 deg. F and the old peaked at 110.6 deg. F. I also ran the new one at 16 amps (8 amps each fan) which is the typical low power fan current. It peaked at 102.2 deg. F.
I tested the unit in my car and made up a shorting plug to install into the harness at the fan connector.
Passenger side pumped 125 amps for 14.5 ms.
Drivers side pumped 125 amps for 15.0 ms.
So as expected my solid state fuses are much faster than a standard fuse. They are also precise for the tripping. They will trip in well under one second at 18.2 amps.
The fan on sequence was just a "freebee" since I had to install MOSFETs for the solid state fuses.
I will be driving to a tech session in a few weeks and that 6 hours of driving will show bugs if there are any bugs in the "fan fail" light. I did not put any filters in the software for fan fail light driving but the current sensors have a pretty large capacitor filter on them. I have Toby fans in my car.
It's a shame I did not get them to run cooler. I could get a little cooler if I go with 4 oz. copper on the circuit boards but that may never get done.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 09-11-2015 at 04:36 PM.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
I installed a parallel jumper on the longest circuit board trace to reduce power (heat). What generates heat is the resistance of my current sensor (1.2 mil/ohm), MOSFET (1.0 mil/ohm) and the circuit board traces.
So now the old REV B board generates 4.185 watts of heat and the new REV C board generates 2.43 watts of heat if each fan is drawing 15 amps (probably worst case). The potted side of the REV B unit stabilizes at 62.1 deg F above ambient. The potted side of the REV C unit stabilizes at 63.6 deg F above ambient. This just proves the fuses are dissipating a lot of heat and not transferring a lot of that heat into the unit.
I'm going to start offering the REV C units for sale at $20 above the price of REV B units to cover the cost of the additional components. I've run the first unit for 6 hours driving my car with Toby fans. Only thing in question is if the other fans may produce more noise and may cause a random fan fail light flash. I hardware filtered the current sensors pretty heavy and have not added any software filtering.
So the REV C units:
1) Produce less heat
2) Are not user programmable
3) Have fixed 18 amp electronic fuses
4) Will sequence the fans turning on with a 2 second delay on the second fan.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/