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Thread: New Fan Fail relay

  1. #21
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,096

    My VIN:    03572

    I forgot to add the circuit power to the load power on my heat calculations.

    REV B heat = 4.54 watts.

    REV C heat = 2.88 watts.

    Just wanted to have accurate documentation for any future testing. The REV C draws a little more circuit power for the additional components.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

    Posts:    231

    My VIN:    4665

    I've got the OEM fan motors. From the outside they are in excellent physical condition, compared to what I've seen in other photos. Both are working, no immediate need to replace I would assume, given some competing repair opportunities.

    But I would like to get the jumpers and inline fuses out of the relay area and replace with some proper device.

    Should I wait on ordering your recent REV until your testing is complete, or will the previous REV be fine?

  3. #23
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    I've got the OEM fan motors. From the outside they are in excellent physical condition, compared to what I've seen in other photos. Both are working, no immediate need to replace I would assume, given some competing repair opportunities.

    But I would like to get the jumpers and inline fuses out of the relay area and replace with some proper device.

    Should I wait on ordering your recent REV until your testing is complete, or will the previous REV be fine?
    I've finished testing with my car running Toby fans. I just painted 5 of the new REV C units today. The new unit and old unit will run about the same temperature with the same loads. I have both units for sale. The new REV C produces less heat since the external fuses are not used and it will sequence your fans on. I still need to document the new unit on my web site.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I've finished testing with my car running Toby fans. I just painted 5 of the new REV C units today. The new unit and old unit will run about the same temperature with the same loads. I have both units for sale. The new REV C produces less heat since the external fuses are not used and it will sequence your fans on. I still need to document the new unit on my web site.
    Thanks. I have your email address and will paypal you tomorrow.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Morpheus's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Orlando, FL

    Posts:    1,174

    My VIN:    1098

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Dave, are the prices for your products on your website? I can't seem to find them.

    I'm definitely interested in a few of your items.
    Brandon S.

    2014 Honda Civic EX
    2016 Toyota Tacoma SR5 V6


  6. #26
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheus View Post
    Dave, are the prices for your products on your website? I can't seem to find them.

    I'm definitely interested in a few of your items.
    I have not set up buying on my web site. Just email or PM me to buy.

    Fan Fail, $94
    Electronic fused Fan Fail, $114
    Dome unit, $88
    RPM relay, $83 with your old unit
    Fan relay, $77
    Blower relay, $72
    Head Light relay, $72
    Hot Start relay, $66
    Pair of window switch LED boards, $20, $25 installed, requires the new DMCH switches.
    Idle ECU, $138 with your old unit. I have 11 pin units also for $150 with your 9 pin unit returned.
    LED AC panel, $110. Your choice of blue or green backlighting.
    Front Relay Bank Ground Buss, $15. $10 if combined with another product.

    Prices include shipping to lower 48 states
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #27
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,096

    My VIN:    03572

    Install document

    Got my first order for the new "ELECTRONICALLY FUSED FAN FAIL UNIT".

    So had to do a quick write up of installation. Boy this guide is simple since the new unit is not user programmable.

    Only problem would be testing that your fan fail light is working. Old unit you just removed a fuse. New unit you will have to pull one of the fan connectors (near the fans) off to verify your fan fail light is working. If you have my LED AC panel board you know the connection is there seeing the fan on indicator LED lights.
    Attached Files
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #28
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

    Posts:    460

    My VIN:    4502

    I am longing to install this new unit in my car
    VIN 4502

  9. #29
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,096

    My VIN:    03572

    I've decided to stop sales of my electronically fused fan fail unit. I designed this unit because the fuses produced so much heat when an owner was still using OEM fans. But after many sales it turns out the fan start and run currents are just so unpredictable that I can not guarantee all users will be happy with the unit.

    I have not decided if I will produce a fused unit again. I could produce a cheap fused unit with a simple circuit to drive the fan fail light if a fuse blows.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #30
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,096

    My VIN:    03572

    I've been giving the fan fail a lot of thought. The problem with checking low current is it shows problems with marginal connections which most users don't have the ability to fix. The OEM fans do have high current problems but again the users don't know this because the 20 amp fuses don't blow. The 20 amp fuse takes 12 seconds to blow with 30 amps of current. Then currents less than 30 amps can still work for up to an hour without blowing the fuse.

    So my thought now is to go back to using fuses. I will flash the fan fail if the load side of a fuse drops below 10 volts. I will also keep my fan on driver (-5 volts) when the fans are powered so my AC LED board will still light the fan running LED. This saves me a lot of components and built time so I should be able to offer these at a lower price than the units that did test fan currents.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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