Brake light switch replacement?

[DMC5180]

I'm just a little confused by the difficulty loosening nut number 3. With that nut removed the switch should simply slide through the bracket. Was that not the case ?

How did you go about making the hole a little larger?

Also did you remove the seat to gain access? I've always found it much easier to lay on the floor.

[Timebender]

I'm just a little confused by the difficulty loosening nut number 3. With that nut removed the switch should simply slide through the bracket. Was that not the case ?

How did you go about making the hole a little larger?

Also did you remove the seat to gain access? I've always found it much easier to lay on the floor.

Well, it was difficult at best to slide a set of needle nose pliers in there (it's a very very tight space) to even get to the nut, and when I was able to, the nut would move a little bit, but then stop - I tried to hold it steady while turning the switch instead but still no luck and kept dropping the pliers (I'm 6' 7" and pretty big overall, so it's nearly impossible to get both arms/hands in there). Since the game pedal is in the way as well, you don't have a lot of room to turn the pliers, and there's no room for even a 17mm (or 16mm) crescent wrench. So I got some very small vise grips and latched onto the nut, then started to spin the switch to get it to back out, but no luck either as it wouldn't budge without using a wrench, and then the case started to break.
Once I finally had it out, there was still the fun of putting the new one in. I used a drill bit that was the same size as the threaded area of the new switch (well, a tad larger), and bored out the hole slightly.
Then it came to getting the new one in and trying to not drop the nut on the other side. It's very hard to get it almost up flush against the bracket, and not drop it, holding it with one hand as you try and sing the new switch into it. You can't just put the switch in, then slide the nut over it and tighten it as the button is pushing against the brake lever.
And if you get the switch in with the nut in place, my hands were to big to reach in and turn it. And a pair of needle nose pliers again wouldn't fit.
Plus it's too tight to reach with one hand to spin the switch in while holding the nut with something (again not enough room).

I had considered removing the seat, but at that point was too tired and frustrated, even though it would've taken no time probably. And laying on the floor on my back probably would've been easier too.

[DMC5180]

6'7" says it all. I gave a guy a ride in my car who was 6'9". Their was no way he could drive the car because of his knees.


Dennis

[Timebender]

I just fit in mine and that's with the 5 speed as well

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I managed to replace my brake light switch last night with one from a 1981 Volvo- pretty much the same fit though the hole had to be made slightly larger.
No one told me what looked like a 10 minute job would take almost 4 hours. Why 4 hours you may ask?

First, getting the old one out wasn't easy, as the nut that held it was seized. A liberal spray of WD40 kind of helped but not much.
Second, ever try getting a pair of needle nose or very small vice grips in there with the pedals in the way?
Third, if someone told me the DeLorean was built mostly by Leprechauns before I had one I would have thought it was a fun Irish joke about the car being made in Ireland.
Turns out it was built mostly by Leprechauns, as no normal sized person (or normal sized giant in my case) can fit comfortably in there to get the switch out using both hands, and then get the other one in, which was almost impossible. Not completely, but almost.

At the end of my 4 hour journey, I was able to get the nut behind the mount, get the switch in, and turn it to accept the nut, as well as tighten down enough. Hooked up the two wires which went on fine, and now I have brake lights once again.

It should not have taken 4 hours and I'm sure it would have been less had I the shop manual, or some advice here at the least on how to remove and replace it.

Next purchase: Shop manual.

The nice thing about the Volvo switch is it's not cheap plastic.

I guess you didn't see my suggestion about a stubby 14mm wrench? With that (and only that will work) I can do the job in less than a half hour depending on the exact positioning and tightness of the nut. I felt guilty for charging the customer $40- or $50- labor last time I did one because it looks so simple but is so cramped that it takes some time. Now I don't feel guity at all....thank you!
Rob

[Timebender]

No- missed that suggestion Rob... And happy to help you not feel guilty about the labor cost. Danny charges $110 an hour out here, and most non-D shops charge $100 an hour nowadays.

As far as the wrench, doesn't seem like anything I'd find at a local hardware store- though maybe Ace would carry it.

[refugeefromcalif]

As far as the wrench, doesn't seem like anything I'd find at a local hardware store- though maybe Ace would carry it.

Sometimes when I need a Stubby wrench, I'll buy a cheap one and cut it in half.

George

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Sometimes when I need a Stubby wrench, I'll buy a cheap one and cut it in half.

George

I've done that too George. A professional technician needs a good set though which can be Snap-on, Mac, Matco, (probably Facom and Stahlwille as well) or other high end toolmakers.
Rob

[David T]

I've done that too George. A professional technician needs a good set though which can be Snap-on, Mac, Matco, (probably Facom and Stahlwille as well) or other high end toolmakers.
Rob

Yeah but, I have also done that but I hate cutting up an expensive Snap-On (Snap-Off!) wrench. Craftsman is a lot cheaper and if you are only going to use it infrequently it will serve the purpose. I have also bent wrenches for special places but now they sell them all bent up too. They cal them "Water Pump" wrenches and they are bent up into "S" shapes and are double-ended box wrenches. Try to stay away from any of the brands made in China like Cobolt. They can break without much warning and you can get hurt. The open end will spread too.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Yeah but, I have also done that but I hate cutting up an expensive Snap-On (Snap-Off!) wrench. Craftsman is a lot cheaper and if you are only going to use it infrequently it will serve the purpose. I have also bent wrenches for special places but now they sell them all bent up too. They cal them "Water Pump" wrenches and they are bent up into "S" shapes and are double-ended box wrenches. Try to stay away from any of the brands made in China like Cobolt. They can break without much warning and you can get hurt. The open end will spread too.

What I meant David is if you buy a set of good "Stubbies" you won't need to shorten them as they come that way. I agree that Craftsman are great for the money and I have cut a few uf them in half without guilt but couldn't do that to the high end stuff and sleep well at night.
Rob