What's a reasonable price for a replacement engine?

[Farrar]

My car's engine is toast. Since I am only working part-time now while I'm a full-time college student, my "fun" budget is extremely limited. Nonetheless, while I finish school (I graduate in the spring), I want to put the car on the road rather than let it deteriorate in the garage.

Here's the problem. I've never bought a used engine before. Searching online, I've seen some engines that look like crap for $250 all the way up to "guaranteed for 30 days" without pictures for $700. I have no idea what I'd get for the money at any amount. I am not an experienced shopper. I have never even been to a junkyard. I am coming to the community for the voice of experience, since I know some of you have bought used engines before.

Bottom line: how much can I expect to pay for a B28F or otherwise "drop-in" replacement engine?

Thanks in advance.

[davidc89]

Although I don't know how much a used engine would go for, what I can tell you is that no matter what you buy its going to be a gamble. Especially if you can't hear it run.

[David T]

Although I don't know how much a used engine would go for, what I can tell you is that no matter what you buy its going to be a gamble. Especially if you can't hear it run.

Just exactly what is wrong with your engine? Any used engine you buy is a gamble unless you buy it from a vendor who will guarantee it but you still have to put in your labor to R & R it. The cheapest way is to fix your motor unless you blew it up. Even if it overheated all it may need is a valve job. If you ran it without oil and burnt up all of the bearings then replacing it is probably cheaper than rebuilding.

[Farrar]

Just exactly what is wrong with your engine?

Block rot.

[Shuttleman]

Where is the corrosion on the block? Can you post a picture?

[Farrar]

Where is the corrosion on the block? Can you post a picture?

Can't get a picture right now, but I can tell you that I have already patched two rot holes on the top of the engine with epoxy, and it's sprung another leak (or those repairs have failed).

Meanwhile, the engine has either a failed head gasket or cylinder liner (symptom: coolant disappearing into the oil), and a failed rear main seal (symptom: oil leaking from between the engine and transmission). I'm not bothering with those repairs because of the block rot.

The car is sitting while I search for a replacement engine.

[sdg3205]

What about finding a running Volvo car with our engine? They go for pretty cheap and you can test drive the engine! Pull the engine, sell whats left or junk it. Still cheaper than a NOS DMCH crate.

Have you spoken to DPI or DMC franchises about used engines?

[AugustneverEnds]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?90...t=engine+donor

Knew this would come in handy some day, sorry for your troubles though

[Josh]

Just exactly what is wrong with your engine? Any used engine you buy is a gamble unless you buy it from a vendor who will guarantee it but you still have to put in your labor to R & R it. The cheapest way is to fix your motor unless you blew it up. Even if it overheated all it may need is a valve job. If you ran it without oil and burnt up all of the bearings then replacing it is probably cheaper than rebuilding.

It most definitely has a hole in the valley.

I wouldnt spend more than $200 on an engine but thats me. lol

[DMCVegas]

I just did a search over on http://www.car-part.com to check for spare PRVs for sale. It's amazing how quickly in the past 10 years they've suddenly disappeared. Which honestly, I kinda blame Volvo people who have their heads still stuck in 1979 for that.

PRV Engines are a gamble, and they usually get junked because of one of these two legitimate reasons:

1. They've overheated and blown head gaskets.
2. The fuel injection system is severely out of tune and is guzzling fuel.

Usually with the overheated engines, those are beater cars that have been thrashed to hell. With the bad fuel mixture cars, those have been running rich a while, and finally got dumped because of their horrible fuel economy.

Me personally, my spare PRV cost me $500. Though it did have a damaged exhaust bolt hole and had no warranty, but I bought it from another owner who knew it ran before it was pulled from a wrecked car. Usually with more plentiful engines, I'd say not to worry, as most places will gladly take back and just exchange it with another out back. But with the PRV, well, you're gonna need some due diligence. Though it does seem as though you're in a good price range.

If I were in your position right now, these are the options that I would consider:

1. Mothball the car until I was done with school. Then once I have a job, wait until my budget is increased for a rebuilt.
2. Find a donor engine block, and move over your internal parts. More time consuming, yes. And who knows if you might not have some rusty internal parts. But you do get to learn.
3. Engine swap with an Eagle Premier 3.0 and EFI.
4. Go with one of these used engines.

If you want to go with a used PRV engine, here are some tips:

• Ask to have the unit compression tested.
• Pull the oil filler cap to ensure the plastic screen is still in place. If not, you know the engine has overheated and has damage.
• Do some preventative work before installing the engine by replacing the main seals, and other gaskets if needed.
• Haggle