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Thread: What's a reasonable price for a replacement engine?

  1. #21
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    we manufacture guide wear plates, have easily 800 plus complete timing chain sets oil and vacuum sealed etc. The PRV is far from ever going extinct on the merits of what we are doing for it alone. Not to mention others out there as well. Engine swaps will never become the norm due to this.


    Regarding what all changed in the PRV manufacturing process other than the blocks. The list is extremely long. The heads were updated significantly over the years along with the casting alloys used etc. It would take a few days to bring this information together into presentable form. I have years of documented research on the subject including the engineering behind it. As with almost everything in life practice makes perfect. As time progressed the manufacturing of the PRV evolved for the better.
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  2. #22
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DPI JOSH View Post
    we manufacture guide wear plates, have easily 800
    Wish I knew that, I guess I can stop buying them whenever they pop up for sale now!
    -----Dan B.

  3. #23
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Back on topic... I would highly recommend a 3.0 with megasquirt. Could be done for under 1000$ if planned right. Another alternative is 3.0 with megajolt and keep your carb. Benefit to this is you dont need to touch your fuel system. Intake would slide right on with some spacers. I think the 3.0 is key here though for availability and cost.

    If you ever do go this way, mail me your crank pulley and ill send you back a crank position sensor setup

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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  4. #24
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the information, everyone. I am making a mental checklist.

    The 3.0L Premier/Monaco engine is much easier to find, it seems.

    MegaJolt with Ford EDIS would seem a viable and affordable option for the later Premier/Monaco engines that did not have an ignition distributor. That would solve one problem, but still leave the problem of fueling. I don't believe a 3.0L engine could easily be carbureted, because -- if memory serves -- the intake manifolds have different footprints and bolt patterns between the 2.85L and the 3.0L, and no carbureted 3.0L was ever produced.

    Re: crank position sensor -- the Premier doesn't already have one?

    I should also mention that #2613 is an automatic. I'm not sure if it would make an engine swap more or less difficult over a manual, since I have not done an engine swap before.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  5. #25
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    The 3.0L Premier/Monaco engine is much easier to find, it seems.
    This is probably due to a younger age, but again why I blame the Volvo people for the PRV hatred since 760 GLEs PRVs are scarce, yet I can find lousy Peugeot 4-bangers everywhere...


    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    MegaJolt with Ford EDIS would seem a viable and affordable option for the later Premier/Monaco engines that did not have an ignition distributor.
    Actually the 88-90 engines DO have a distributor. It is attached to the end of the right camshaft. HOWEVER, it is NOT adjustable. You cannot adjust the timing whatsoever. The Engine ECU still took care of that one. 91 & 92 Engines deleted the dizzy and went full DIS.


    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I don't believe a 3.0L engine could easily be carbureted, because -- if memory serves -- the intake manifolds have different footprints and bolt patterns between the 2.85L and the 3.0L, and no carbureted 3.0L was ever produced.
    Correct. Since there are no bungs for K-Jet Injectors, and LH-Jet & Renix moved the injectors into the manifolds, the intake ports are bigger. Makes for a much better flowing head though. No Carbureted 3.0L exists to my knowledge. Though that doesn't mean you couldn't fabricate something. Like say maybe a Webber carburetor on top of the throttle...


    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Re: crank position sensor -- the Premier doesn't already have one?
    It does. It's trigger ring is already welded to the Flexplate. But the Sensor itself might be still attached to the Bellhousing.


    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I should also mention that #2613 is an automatic. I'm not sure if it would make an engine swap more or less difficult over a manual, since I have not done an engine swap before.
    The biggest questions here would be:
    1. Will the DMC-12's Bellhousing fit the Premier/Monaco's Flexplate?
    2. If the Premier/Monaco's Torque Converter doesn't match the input shaft to the Transaxle, will the Flexplate still accept the DMC-12's Torque Converter?


    Otherwise I don't see any reason that the Transmission Computer cares what kind of engine is bolted up since it operates independently. Otherwise, you're going to have to install the DMC-12 Flexplate & Torque Converter and go with a Crank Trigger.
    Robert

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  6. #26
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Robert covered the bases very well

    I would not screw around with the flex plate trigger wheel even though you have an auto. mounting the sensor is a concern as well as the tooth pattern is funky. You would still need to run megasquirt/megajolt unless you are a sucker for punishment and run the eagle ecu.

    Just to re-iterate just because it has a distributor does not mean it is good to go. There is no advance of any sort. the rotor is directly connected to the camshaft. For this reason you would need to switch to coil pack ignition with megajolt or full on fuel and spark with megasquirt. Both require a crank position sensor.

    OR do some funky work with the heads and cams and fit in a delorean distributor. I believe bill mentioned he was going to pursue this.

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  7. #27
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    I would not screw around with the flex plate trigger wheel even though you have an auto. mounting the sensor is a concern as well as the tooth pattern is funky. You would still need to run megasquirt/megajolt unless you are a sucker for punishment and run the eagle ecu.
    I don't even know if the trigger wheel works with Megasquirt. And I absolutely wouldn't touch the old Renix stuff. That one custom widebody DeLorean in flat black (I can't remember who owns that car) has an Eagle Premier 3.0L engine swap, and that started out with the Eagle's Renix ECU, and it never worked. And it was pulled out of a fully functioning Premier that was driven into the garage for the swap, so it was known to be good.

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    Just to re-iterate just because it has a distributor does not mean it is good to go. There is no advance of any sort. the rotor is directly connected to the camshaft. For this reason you would need to switch to coil pack ignition with megajolt or full on fuel and spark with megasquirt. Both require a crank position sensor.
    Absolutely correct. *MAYBE* you could set up a jig to router out slots in the bottom of the distributor housing to actually *make* the thing adjustable. But the problem then exists where the screws that hold the dizzy in place are all internal. It's not like an traditional dizzy where you can have external flanges that are held in by bolts. At that point you'd then have to weld or epoxy on a custom external flange, and then drill & tap the Timing Chain Cover (somewhere it doesn't interfere with the internal moving parts) to mount a locking screw. Then you have to disasseble the dizzy again and torque down the internal screws, and hope it isn't off-kilter from bumping it. Otherwise you start again. Or to put it another way, it's so not worth it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    OR do some funky work with the heads and cams and fit in a delorean distributor. I believe bill mentioned he was going to pursue this.
    I've seen a 2.8L DeLorean PRV with 3.0 Internals using the stock cylinder heads. Aside from grinding the ribs under the rocker covers for clearance, it had a custom cut drive gear that was slid onto the camshaft. And I was told it was such a pain in the ass to get aligned just right (let alone fabricated), that it wasn't even worth it.
    Robert

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  8. #28
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    Even with "block rot" and a coolant leak the cheapest option is still to repair what you got. If that's not what you want then store the car till you can afford other, more expensive alternatives.
    David Teitelbaum

  9. #29
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    I can't just epoxy over the whole engine valley...
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I can't just epoxy over the whole engine valley...

    Sure you can. Or better yet you have a plate welded in. Worst case you get another block and move your internals over to it.
    David Teitelbaum

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