Angle Drive...May be needin a new one..How do you do that?

[Lwanmtr]

Speedo wasnt working, so I ran the check on the cables, drill easily spins it and the speedo registers (nope, didnt write down how fast my drill
got it up to..hehe)

Anyhow, the rod (looks like its wound metal) isnt attached to anything and came out with the dust shield. So, most likely I'll need to replace
it. I tried to look in the shop manual and elsewhere, but couldnt find instructions on replacing that...Anyone got a link or something to how
to replace the angle drive (incase thats what ends up happening)?

Heres some pics of the rod...

IMG031.jpgIMG032.jpgIMG034.jpg

[davidc89]

When I bought mine for DMC Midwest, it came with instructions. Pretty simple though, the hardest part of the whole install was transferring the nut over to the new angle drive... that can be a pain!

If you already have the wheel off, you basically just need to take an 1 1/4"? Wrench and loosen the nut that attaches the angle drive to the wheel hub. And then it just slides out of there.

[Lwanmtr]

I got a pdf from Toby at DMCNW...seems simple enough..though I dont have a breaker bar or torque wrench...have to see if I have a 32mm socket even...lol

Be a few days before I have the $65 or so (after tax and shipping) to get the new angle drive.

[Jonathan]

The inside nuts can work with a 1 1/4" open ended wrench, but some of the newer ones were a closer match (in tolerance) to 32 mm.

That outside nut is 32 mm on some cars and 36 mm on others. Not sure why there was a difference, or which cars got what. Measure it before you spend money on the socket.

I've found a number of uses for a two foot breaker bar (1/2" drive) over the years. They go on sale at times from what I've seen. Loosening that outside nut first makes your job easier of getting the inside one loose. That breaker bar will help immensely with that. Getting a torque wrench on that back nut is not possible from what I've seen on my own car. You can get good leverage on the outside one though.

And if you struggle with getting the old angle drive separated from the old nut, you can buy a replacement nut. I think they are about $19. It's those new ones that are 32 mm and not 1 1/4".

Having said all of that, there are replacement angle drives that have the ability to replace just that rod that came out with yours. I don't know if your car has one of these new designs (or how to identify it before taking the whole thing out.) Maybe someone else can chime in who is familiar with those? I thought they might have come from either the UK or Hervey.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The inside nuts can work with a 1 1/4" open ended wrench, but some of the newer ones were a closer match (in tolerance) to 32 mm.

That outside nut is 32 mm on some cars and 36 mm on others. Not sure why there was a difference, or which cars got what. Measure it before you spend money on the socket.

I've found a number of uses for a two foot breaker bar (1/2" drive) over the years. They go on sale at times from what I've seen. Loosening that outside nut first makes your job easier of getting the inside one loose. That breaker bar will help immensely with that. Getting a torque wrench on that back nut is not possible from what I've seen on my own car. You can get good leverage on the outside one though.

And if you struggle with getting the old angle drive separated from the old nut, you can buy a replacement nut. I think they are about $19. It's those new ones that are 32 mm and not 1 1/4".

Having said all of that, there are replacement angle drives that have the ability to replace just that rod that came out with yours. I don't know if your car has one of these new designs (or how to identify it before taking the whole thing out.) Maybe someone else can chime in who is familiar with those? I thought they might have come from either the UK or Hervey.

I incorporated that feature on my later "Hard core" rebuilt units. The new DMCH repro part also uses a replaceable cable. The last time I saw one Hervey's had a similiar design but with a fixed cable. I believe both of these are China sourced. I was thinking of making more H.C. rebuilt units but the cost of American made hardened gears alone is almost the price of the complete Chinese unit and most owners shop the lowest price on these.
Rob

[dn010]

I guess I am just lucky with mine - when that damn angle drive cable failed and slit into a million threads of steel I stuffed a long hex T handled wrench into the angle drive, cut off the handle, hammered flat the end the cap goes on slammed the cap on with the flattened hex end making it's own large slot instead of the usual square hole that can round out. With a slot there is no way the cap can wear out and somehow the other end of the hex is still driving the angle drive. That was 2003, still in service today after tens of thousands of miles.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I guess I am just lucky with mine - when that damn angle drive cable failed and slit into a million threads of steel I stuffed a long hex T handled wrench into the angle drive, cut off the handle, hammered flat the end the cap goes on slammed the cap on with the flattened hex end making it's own large slot instead of the usual square hole that can round out. With a slot there is no way the cap can wear out and somehow the other end of the hex is still driving the angle drive. That was 2003, still in service today after tens of thousands of miles.

It sounds like good luck could have played a role in its longevity. It's not like you pampered the poor thing!!!
Rob

[5875]

After trying to replace many parts on my speedo system and still getting a rounded dust cover, I decided to just place a dab of JB weld in the square socket. I let it sit for 4-5 days to really make sure it cured nicely before driving. Since I did that, I've happily placed over 2,000 miles on the car and the speedo works like a charm. Granted if I need to do any front suspension work I'll have to crack the dust cover off, but I've got tons of dust cover spares waiting! Obviously not the most clean fix and the purists will cry foul, but I just got frustrated buying speedo parts that never solved the issue.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

After trying to replace many parts on my speedo system and still getting a rounded dust cover, I decided to just place a dab of JB weld in the square socket. I let it sit for 4-5 days to really make sure it cured nicely before driving. Since I did that, I've happily placed over 2,000 miles on the car and the speedo works like a charm. Granted if I need to do any front suspension work I'll have to crack the dust cover off, but I've got tons of dust cover spares waiting! Obviously not the most clean fix and the purists will cry foul, but I just got frustrated buying speedo parts that never solved the issue.

When the reproduction adapter cup was introduced some years ago I noticed two problems with them. First there was a much tighter fit to the hub which often necessitated shaving the OD of the adapter down on a bench grinder so that it would not have to be installed with a hammer. They also were made from a softer plastic which led to a much higher failure rate. I don't believe any changes have been made as I recently bought another one for inspection. Because of this we recently had our own adapter cup made using a stronger material and more exacting tolerances. If anyone has noticed problems with the replacement cups and wants something better our part #105104G Adapter Cup is now in stock and sells for $24.95. That's about $9.50 more than theirs but I think the ease of installation and stronger material more than makes up for the difference.
Rob

[SS Spoiler]

Not wanting to steal Robs thunder, I fixed mine by going to Ace or a hobby
store for some square brass tubing that fits over the drive pin. Careful filing
with a tiny needle file allowed me to force a short section of tubing into the cup.
Did this 25 years ago, still going strong......