Location: Santa Cruz, Ca
Posts: 209
My VIN: 10588
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Dug through my records and I purchased that bushing from PJ Grady in April of 2015. It's beautius.
From a pm from PJ Grady:
Thanx Luigi the # is the same as DMCH's with a G at the end which means we source it elsewhere.
101994G $24.90. If the site doesn't work for billing (it IS secure if you go through the authorize.net portal) then you can complete the order by calling (800)350-7429.
Last edited by Nuclearbacon; 08-30-2017 at 03:15 AM.
-Luigi-
Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!
1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
We've been making these bushings for about 25 years or so. We've had an ongoing relationship with a local machine shop since the 80's and many of our tried and true machined products are made there to our specifications. A few years ago we switched the material from Delrin to Teflon for a little more vibration dampening effect and have never had a failure in either material. This steering bushing should last the life of the car.
Rob
When you turn the steering wheel, the bushing should not turn, right?
Has anyone ever tried to hold the bushing with a sheet metal screw on either side, 180 Degrees apart?
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Thanks Guys...
I think that maybe the hole in the firewall got sloppy from not having a bushing....and now the new bushing isn't seating tightly. To make matters worse, I had greased everything ahead of time...so there is no way that rtv will stick..
And like everything else on the car, it has been designed in such a way that it is almost impossible to re-engineer it. I was thinking of bolting in a bearing assembly...but the other side of the firewall (where the u-joints attach) is too tight. AND there is that stupid recess around the hole...
And the whole thing is recessed into the firewall...
I could go on and on...
I even thought of using door edge guard molding around the perimeter of the hole, (and skipping the bushing all together). The beauty of that is that you would not need to remove the column...
Not sure if it would be strong enough..
There is no end to the madness...