Tachyon Field Generator (wormhole emitter) 3D model for printing..
Hi guys.
In an attempt to find or buy a wormhole generator, I couldn't find either the original part used (and tried several industrial/electronics/military surplus stores), and didn't want to spend $500 simoleans on a resin one from people who make them.
So I figured it was time to learn how to model in AutoDesk Inventor and Fusion. This was my first attempt at 3D modeling this way, and it took about 5 hours over time (I know, that's super slow but I'm a beginner). I went off a bunch of photos Gary Weaver and I think Mark provided of the original screen used part with measurements. I made a schematic first in Illustrator to get it all pretty close, then started building this in 3D, using the measurements and then just eyeballing it.
So it's not 100% screen accurate. But it is free to all of you who want to either print it yourself or get it printed. You still have to do some model building, like drilling holes, adding the rubber grip, and so forth. This zip file has the whole thing, and then the parts broken out like the speaker screen, the back plate, the prongs, and the holder for the lights (one model you'll need to print twice).
It's close enough for a pro prop builder and the general public, but probably not screen-accurate enough for the certain folks. Like my R2, it's very passable, and to the average person who even knows it's there (unlike Mr. Fusion or the Flux Capacitor) they'll think it's real. I did not make models of the mounting plate or base. But I might.
For now, enjoy this and let me know how it works out for you.
Edit: I checked on Shapeways and altogether it would be about $326.98
I uploaded it after this post, just have to wait 24 hours before I'm allowed to publish it being it's my first upload. As soon as it is I'll post here. And thanks too!
I've found them to be much more cost effective than shapeways. Shapeways charges by the cubic centimeter of material used (meaning the more you can shell out the model the better. imaterialise charges based on the rectangular prism within which your part fits into. I've yet to have a model be less expensive on shapeways. Plus if you can make the part out of several smaller interlocking parts and glue them together, you can save even more money. Its all about the longest linear dimension. The more you can break it up, the better.
My full transmission shaft would have been $500 to print on shapeways, but was only $270 on imaterialise. Then when I broke it into smaller pieces that glued together I got it down to $125 total. Good luck! It would be awesome if we could create a repository of BTTF Prop 3D models for DIY folks. I use SolidWorks all the time so if I had dimensions (and time) it wouldn't be that difficult to model them.
EDIT: I tried your model at imaterialise and it said $160 to print in white Polyamide. I've printed several things in this; it's surprisingly strong and its completely solid through the part.
Last edited by Nicholas R; 11-12-2015 at 12:24 AM.
I've found them to be much more cost effective than shapeways. Shapeways charges by the cubic centimeter of material used (meaning the more you can shell out the model the better. imaterialise charges based on the rectangular prism within which your part fits into. I've yet to have a model be less expensive on shapeways. Plus if you can make the part out of several smaller interlocking parts and glue them together, you can save even more money. Its all about the longest linear dimension. The more you can break it up, the better.
My full transmission shaft would have been $500 to print on shapeways, but was only $270 on imaterialise. Then when I broke it into smaller pieces that glued together I got it down to $125 total. Good luck! It would be awesome if we could create a repository of BTTF Prop 3D models for DIY folks. I use SolidWorks all the time so if I had dimensions (and time) it wouldn't be that difficult to model them.
EDIT: I tried your model at imaterialise and it said $160 to print in white Polyamide. I've printed several things in this; it's surprisingly strong and its completely solid through the part.
Thanks Nick! That's good to know about imaterialize, and I'll have to give it a try.
Yeah I knew that, but didn't know you could find them on eBay more recently. I may have to make some mods to the speaker grill I made so it has that nice indent.
Thanks for the pics.
Btw if you have a pair, would you mind taking some more pics and measurements? I couldn't find any online for the moment.
Last edited by Timebender; 11-13-2015 at 12:33 PM.
Yeah I knew that, but didn't know you could find them on eBay more recently. I may have to make some mods to the speaker grill I made so it has that nice indent.
Thanks for the pics.
Btw if you have a pair, would you mind taking some more pics and measurements? I couldn't find any online for the moment.
I have one, I just need to find it in my collection of 'research material'. Happy to take measurements and photos for you. If you want, I can model one up for you.
Either would be great - actually photos and measurements would be better, as it gives me more practice time with Fusion. plus I haven't figured out how to copy and paste from one document or model to another. I can copy and paste within a document/model, but it's just not happening the way I expect like any other normal app. I was going to build the screen as a new model and either copy and paste it in, or just save and import but no such luck. (Okay, I didn't try saving and importing which to me seems counterintuitive.)