I abandoned my idea of a custom dash a long time ago, but at the time I found a font called "Roadway" which I thought would work OK for the gauges. Here's a sample.
roadway.jpg
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I abandoned my idea of a custom dash a long time ago, but at the time I found a font called "Roadway" which I thought would work OK for the gauges. Here's a sample.
roadway.jpg
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
New update, I rewrote the code for the needles. Now they pause during and and after the test sweep. I also fixed the needles so the if there are min/max values (like the volts), the needle will wait for the value to catch up.
You can also see the menu.
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 2,208
My VIN: 4877
Club(s): (PNDC)
Looks like good progress
Rob Depew
Tacoma, Wa
'81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
The Ressurection of 4877......
Website
YouTube
My Patreon
Is that the actual speed of the needles during initializing? If so (and this is purely from a UX/Kinetec design point of view), I'd work on mimicking more of a natural, analog feel to the needles, which would have more of a speed curve to them- i.e. start slow, speed up, slow down, and then the same as they go to their actual positions. I'd start the slow down around the 90% or even 95% point of their animation, even though it'll be very subtle it should provide more of a natural feel (and thus less jarring).
Just my .03 cents (as my opinion is worth slightly more than .02 cents).
Update, few nights of programming and I have made more progress.
- Changed needle from images to vector shapes
- Changed Font to closer match
- Added 140mph speedo
- Added 240km/h metric speedo
- Added metric for other gauges
I have my middle temp number set at half between min and max, I have to figure out how to make the rate change as the needle moves up.
Still need to do the icons,warning lights, and the metric red lower fuel ticks. Once that is done I'll be moving on to the prototype dashes
I have a screen coming tomorrow and should have access to a binnacle. As long as everything works out, Ill have a very rough prototype this weekend. Here is some sceenshots.
85mph
85.JPG
95mph Back to the future
95.JPG
140mph
140.JPG
240km/h (with all other us gauges)
240km.JPG
Full Metric Set
meteric.JPG
Example of secondary blue speeds turned off
blues.JPG
Now you just need to come up with little circuits to convert the sensors to read into your micro. And you will need to install a wheel sensor to replace the angle drive.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 2,208
My VIN: 4877
Club(s): (PNDC)
Could run something off the angle drive without replacing it, probably.
Rob Depew
Tacoma, Wa
'81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
The Ressurection of 4877......
Website
YouTube
My Patreon
Location: Poland
Posts: 329
My VIN: 6149 plus 2418, 3633, 5030, 17086
I like your project, great idea but there's something I would suggest you change about the metric readouts. Why use the uneven numbers and fractions? Makes no sense and no "metric" car has values like that.
For temperature 38, 88 and 126. Why? Do 40, 90 and 120.
For oil pressure 2.8 and 5.6? Do 3 and 6. Or 2, 4 and 6.
Look at the speedometer, there are no values like that for the blue metric numbers. Otherwise you would end up with 5=8, 15=24.1, 25=40.2, 35=56.3, 45=72.4 and so on. This is not how it's done. The metric values do not need to correspond exactly to the prehistoric* values They are separate and should use even numbers that are easy to understand with a quick glance.
* - metric is so much easier with just one value to remember - for distance there is only meter instead of inch, foot, yard, mile and whatever other values there might be. Once you have a meter you either divided with d (1/10), c (1/100), m (1/1000), n (1/10000) or you multiply it with k (kilo = 1000). Higher multiplication is not normally used. It makes life so much easier... you don't have to remember how many meters are in 1km because you already know that k is 1000. You don't have to remember things like 5280 feet per mile.
But I digress
For the screen I would suggest using a OLED or AMOLED display as they do not require any backlight and provide black that is really black. There is no bleed and no light - black is truly black.
Good luck with the project! I'd love to see it in person.
Greetings from Poland!
Tom
http://www.deloreana.com
Please excuse my typos... and watch this: Ben Champion - That Auto-Correct Song
It's been a little wile with no updates. I needed to button down a screen size, so I would not have to do a bunch of coding over again if the resolution changes.
So I have bought this LCD panel from a China (a bit of a long process)
c35a826b-74fe-45b9-9ee7-7d8e966ddfb9.jpg51679c79-228d-4000-9bc1-6fe108e10efa.jpga4128abc-b977-498a-9ae6-0a73bb4eb7d9.jpg
The resolution is 1280X390 which is not that bad, just a touch smaller than the images I posted.
It will fit the the binnacle, but is not quite as wide as the stock cluster, (like 2 cm on each side) but the height is perfect.
Best of all, it runs on 12v
Now I wait, I should get it in the next 2 weeks depending on how fast DHL ships it.
Once I get it, I'll start making a bracket and use the stock holes in the binnacle. I will also make some sort of bezel to cover the non screen parts of the panel.
-Kevin
Last edited by bttws; 12-18-2015 at 11:50 PM.