Headlight bulb type

[Mark D]

Buy spares while you can get them. They won't last as long as the OEM bulbs.

True, they do burn out faster than a regular sealed beam. In the 7 years I've owned my car I think I've burned out two low beams and I always replace in pairs so I'm now on my third set. I don't do much night driving so I'm still on my first set of high beams.

Are the silverstars in our size being discontinued or something that I should stock up?

[mr_maxime]

Sorry I messed up my post earlier. Dont know why I thought the high beams were H1, must have misread H7 as H1.

[DMCMW Dave]

Are the silverstars in our size being discontinued or something that I should stock up?

Not in particular, but as mentioned above they aren't building cars that use them any more.

[DL4567]

Is there any increased risk of melting the headlight switch with the Silverstars vs the OEM bulbs?

[Michael]

Is there any increased risk of melting the headlight switch with the Silverstars vs the OEM bulbs?

Only if the current draw is higher, which I don't think it is but check. I believe most of these are 55/60 or maybe its 45/55, I can't remember.

Some of the euro spec bulbs (both halogen and sealed beams) are rated at 55/80 and they will burn up pigtails, fuses, and in DeLorean's case, headlight switches.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is there any increased risk of melting the headlight switch with the Silverstars vs the OEM bulbs?

There is no change in the current through the switch. The headlights use two relays (high, low beams). So the switch current is only a concern if you used higher power running lights (side, rear, etc.). Or better yet, put LEDs in the running lights to lower the current through the switch.

[davidc89]

They might not make 4x6 headlights in cars anymore, but they still use them in commercial applications. So you shouldn't need to stock up quite yet.

[DL4567]

There is no change in the current through the switch. The headlights use two relays (high, low beams). So the switch current is only a concern if you used higher power running lights (side, rear, etc.). Or better yet, put LEDs in the running lights to lower the current through the switch.

This is a very interesting comment. I've had a "headlight switch saver" sitting in a drawer for a while now, and been putting off installing it because I don't want to remove the center console again. Would simply changing out the 4 fender running lights for LEDs (and maybe also the 2 in the front bumper) dramatically lessen the worry of my original headlight switch failing one day? (And save me the trouble of installing the "switch saver"?)

[Bitsyncmaster]

This is a very interesting comment. I've had a "headlight switch saver" sitting in a drawer for a while now, and been putting off installing it because I don't want to remove the center console again. Would simply changing out the 4 fender running lights for LEDs (and maybe also the 2 in the front bumper) dramatically lessen the worry of my original headlight switch failing one day? (And save me the trouble of installing the "switch saver"?)

Most likely yes. I don't have a switch save relay and don't plan to use one because my running lights are LED. I still need to LED the binnacle lights which also power from the light switch.

One of the problems when powering on incandescent bulbs is the current is very high until the bulb heats up. So switching lights on is harder on the switch. Switching inductive loads (like fans) is harder on a switch when they are turning off because the voltage spikes turning off power into an inductor.

So your four side lights, two front "parking lights", two rear "parking lights, your rear license plate lights, five binnacle lights, four AC panel lights and the cig lighter light are all powered through the switch.

[DMC-81]

Most likely yes. I don't have a switch save relay and don't plan to use one because my running lights are LED. I still need to LED the binnacle lights which also power from the light switch.

One of the problems when powering on incandescent bulbs is the current is very high until the bulb heats up. So switching lights on is harder on the switch. Switching inductive loads (like fans) is harder on a switch when they are turning off because the voltage spikes turning off power into an inductor.

So your four side lights, two front "parking lights", two rear "parking lights, your rear license plate lights, five binnacle lights, four AC panel lights and the cig lighter light are all powered through the switch.

This is great news. I originally planned to use all new Sylvania Long Life bulbs on the exterior, but after getting them, I didn't like the dimness of the incandescent or the heat that they gave off ( especially on the side marker lights), so I got DMC's exterior LED bulb kit. Now I have another reason to feel good about the upgrade.

I'll continue with the LEDs inside as much as possible.