Josh Q/VIN 3307's Custom DPI Twin-Turbo E.F.I. Project Build

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I am using a Volvo 3-wire PWM valve (same as the D valve just slimmer) and it has been working fine. I do not believe you can use them with MS2 without ECU modification, though. I cannot remember what coolant sensor the stock engine has, the stock Volvo ('87 780) coolant temp sensor I'm using is 2 pin (ground/signal) and has been working great, I'm sure you can interchange this Volvo one and the D one if it makes things easier. Instead of finding an actual MAT/IAT sensor, I replaced my Bosch MAF sensor with a Ford 6-wire sensor that has MAT built in so I cannot comment on that sensor.

I'm using Ford EDIS for my spark control, the MS ECU is connected to the EDIS but the EDIS computer does all the calculating etc. I do have the stock front mounted distributor that I was going to use if all else failed. It would be great to run sequential but I have not done any camshaft position sensor research, perhaps one day.

Yes, you are right, sigh. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm Thank you for the heads up!
So, the stepper motors seem like a pain to tune and the stock PWM valve requires modification to the MS2 and also is in the way of the fuel rail.
What would you recommend as the best option that is plug-n-play and clears the fuel rail?

Thoughts on this if stepper is best option? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/c...alve-p-69.html and then this: http://www.autozone.com/engine-manag...?checkfit=true with this plug http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...tail-p-70.html

For the coolant sensor, i planned on this closed element with pigtail. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tail-p-58.html . Josh at DPI says he has an adaptor to mate it to the water pump connector so I was going to go that route.

[opethmike]

I made literally zero modifications to my MS2 Extra 3.57 board to run the stock idle motor. I just set it up in Tuner Studio as a PWM valve. Works completely fine.

You can still use it with the stock manifold and the fuel rails. You'd simply have to mount it remotely, and run a hose to the "pipe of agony" that goes into the mixture unit.

Don't bother spending the money on a coolant sensor adapter. Just unscrew the existing adapter used by the thermotime switch, and drill/tap it to fit the new coolant sensor. All of 5 minutes of work, and costs you nothing if you already have a tap & die set.

[BABIS]

I believe this to be the correct and assembled to use MS2:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...unit-p-65.html
and Megasquirt ecu wiring harness- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1...ady-p-477.html
IMHO you will be fine with MS2 3.0, this is what a lot of people are using
Otherwise, this is the MS3 Pro:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ess-p-538.html

I'm still researching which one to go with. The MS2 is half the price. I don't have an unlimited budget. However, if it will make a big difference, I will go with the MS3P.

#2 Removing K-Jet Components that will no longer be used (for both fuel and ignition). I believe I will be able to remove the following: Cold Start Valve, Warm Up Regulator, Frequency Valve, The mechanical injectors and stainless lines, the fuel distributor and air metering assembly (the top half is being replaced with the nicely designed turbo inlet assembly to use the original throttle body). Does the Idle-Air Control Valve get reused? I will be removing the Lambda setup, Idle computer, and ignition computer as well, correct? How about any additional sensors or vacuum lines, distributor advance, etc?

#3 Fuel Feed Lines - Either I find adaptor fittings to the original line from the fuel filter and return line to the tank, or i cut off the fittings and use compression fittings and adaptors to the new setup that will use AN fittings. Any recommendations?
I want to do the "AN conversion in the near future, so I'm interested in this one. I figured all the things (it will start from the top of the fuel filter with a AN6 adaptor) but I'm having a doubt to reach the return hard line fitting, I guess someone here did it with a AN6 to AN5 adaptor

#4 Intake air temperature sensor. Looking for a part number and how to mount it to the lower air metering housing.
IMHO buy all the sensors from diyautotune. their sensors have a 3/8" npt thread and you can buy the "weld on" adaptors
#5 MAP sensor, I believe MS2 comes with one that will be plenty for what I am doing. I believe the MS3P does not. In this case, what would be a good part #?
MS2 has an integrated map but sometimes it can be difficult to route the vacuum hose to the cabin
#6 Coolant Temp Sensor, can I use the original or a different one? Research says they like the GM version, but I don't know how to adapt.
one tap in the Y pipe is already 3/8", you can use that one or you can buy a M18 to 3/8" adaptor for the water pump (as I did)
#7 Alternator relocation -Per last DPI conversation "use brass spacer as the turn buckle is for m8/5/16 and the timing cover is m7" Anyone have clarification on this? I am currently using a turnbuckle adjustment setup in place of the original adjuster bracket.
do you already have the relocation bracket? I guess he means that with the M8 turn buckle you will have some sloppiness since the timing cover bolt is M7
In addition, DPI did provide a recommendation on the:
-TPS sensor: TCI brand part # 377400 plus Holley Part # 20-40 fitting. Just need to figure out where to put the fitting specifically.
the remote TPS looks great, never thought of something similar
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator – Part # 13129
-Software - "free source tunerstudio is best free version and registered i would pay the 100 bucks for reg
unlocks a number of things that can help with drivability" I believe this to be correct: http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php.../tunerstudioms

I believe these to be the correct injectors at 24 lbs and at 45psi fuel system pressure: http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/150624/10002/-1
are those high or low impedance? consider also these ones http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/jeep-...3-generation-3 they were a perfect bolt on for my original efi manifold and rails (from the later PRVs)
I did find fuel injector pigtails (6): http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...-ev1-p-48.html
IMHO buy the uncrimped connectors http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...ev1-p-111.html
to do the efi conversion you should buy first some good electrical tools like a pin crimper with interchangeable dies, solder, heat shrinks sleeves, various crimp connectors and so on
I can buy the pre-built DPI fuel rails or I can source undrilled stock from work here, just need to measure length: http://www.jegs.com/p/FAST/FAST-Univ...rPage=60&pno=1
maybe just buying the DPI rails will save you from other headaches

also consider the Innovate LC2 lambda module

Some of the EFI guys have kept the stock idle system

maybe the best thing to do, in conjunction with you idle ECU

Thoughts on this if stepper is best option? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/c...alve-p-69.html and then this: http://www.autozone.com/engine-manag...?checkfit=true with this plug http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...tail-p-70.html

I bought that kit and ended reproducing it in a welded block on the "efi elbow" under the throttle body
A31aE3.jpg





a question open to all, have you ever tried this "open element" IAT sensor on NA engines? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-116.html it is said to be used on forced inductions, but I never completely liked the use of the same "closed element" sensor both for IAT and CLT http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-115.html

[Delorean Industries]

You can not used a closed element sensor for the IAT. This will heat soak and cause a false compensation for your short term MAP/CLT trim. Stock idle motors are not ideal for forced induction in this case. Also the cold start tube needs to be removed and the intake manifold plugged. The distance from the throttle plate to idle motor in the stock application is too great. You need the idle motor as close to the throttle body as possible.

[dn010]

I should have clarified: Josh said he was planning to use a 3.0 board, not 3.57. The 3.0 board still required the modification. After DPI Josh's post, I guess it doesn't matter anyway.

I made literally zero modifications to my MS2 Extra 3.57 board to run the stock idle motor. I just set it up in Tuner Studio as a PWM valve. Works completely fine.

You can still use it with the stock manifold and the fuel rails. You'd simply have to mount it remotely, and run a hose to the "pipe of agony" that goes into the mixture unit.

Don't bother spending the money on a coolant sensor adapter. Just unscrew the existing adapter used by the thermotime switch, and drill/tap it to fit the new coolant sensor. All of 5 minutes of work, and costs you nothing if you already have a tap & die set.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I made literally zero modifications to my MS2 Extra 3.57 board to run the stock idle motor. I just set it up in Tuner Studio as a PWM valve. Works completely fine.

You can still use it with the stock manifold and the fuel rails. You'd simply have to mount it remotely, and run a hose to the "pipe of agony" that goes into the mixture unit.

Don't bother spending the money on a coolant sensor adapter. Just unscrew the existing adapter used by the thermotime switch, and drill/tap it to fit the new coolant sensor. All of 5 minutes of work, and costs you nothing if you already have a tap & die set.

"Note that if you are using a PWM Idle valve, such as those used in some Ford products, the standard transistor on a V3 main board is not sufficient to power the valve directly (on a V3.57 SMD main board, or a MicroSquirt, the FIlde transistor *IS* sufficient to drive a PWM idle valve without modifications)." So I can run the 3.57 version board? I thought it wouldn't run right with odd-fire? Does it matter if i lengthen the hose to move it away from the fuel rail/will it affect idle?
I'll take you up on the coolant adapter idea. thanks!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

maybe the best thing to do, in conjunction with you idle ECU



I bought that kit and ended reproducing it in a welded block on the "efi elbow" under the throttle body
A31aE3.jpg





a question open to all, have you ever tried this "open element" IAT sensor on NA engines? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-116.html it is said to be used on forced inductions, but I never completely liked the use of the same "closed element" sensor both for IAT and CLT http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-115.html

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!!!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

You can not used a closed element sensor for the IAT. This will heat soak and cause a false compensation for your short term MAP/CLT trim. Stock idle motors are not ideal for forced induction in this case. Also the cold start tube needs to be removed and the intake manifold plugged. The distance from the throttle plate to idle motor in the stock application is too great. You need the idle motor as close to the throttle body as possible.

-Understand to use the open element sensor for the IAT. Where exactly is the best spot to drill and tap the hole to mount it on the lower housing of the mixture unit?

-Which Idle Motor do you recommend for my application and where and how do you recommend placing and plumbing it?

-What is the best method for plugging the intake manifold in place of the cold start tube?

I appreciate all of the help and support in this project and DPI product Josh.

-JQ

[cineman]

On my twin turbo, I'm actually running MS "II" with PCB 3.0, with "extra" firmware on it.
I started from this kit: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ase-p-119.html

I do control both fuel and timing. The 3.0 has his original distributor cap and rotor, in front of the right cam. I'm using his original Renault Safrane V6 Coil and power module, wich the engine used in oem renault configs also in turbo engine.
It's something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RENAULT-25-2...AAAOSwWnFWAW9I

You need just to bring a coil signal at +12V with no power, so could be directly from MS with a small transistor to buffer, and +12V power and ground.

I'm not controlling IDLE, i have just some air screw to regulate, but is quite stable.
I tried using the stock 3wire pwm motor, but was not happy with it. You cant' use the 3wire directly from MSII 3.0 board, you need to make an external 2 power transistor board, or mount a single power transistor inside it, and use a power resistor external, but I don't like this configuration.
I think i will do like my friend BABIS did, with the valve suggested.

My actual plan however is to go to MS "III" ; i bought also the new ecu: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...kit-p-398.html
for the purpose to go to WASTED SPARK ignition, with 3 double coils from Renault Laguna, with 3 of this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-Igniti...pWbqBX&vxp=mtr

You can upgrade from MSII 3.0 to MSIII with the new ecu, but you need also the new bigger box: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ase-p-442.html

I also have this: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...kit-p-522.html , using original OEM renault safrane V6 knock sensor on the engine.

I made from steel some laser cutted "half moon" to put in place of the stock 3.0 distributor cap, so i can put a phase sensor in place of it, for going wasted spark.

My prv is a 3.0lt even firing so i'm using his original intake, with some mods for the throttle body, with I'm not actually happy for. I'm using Renault 25 throttle sensor, but not suggest it, it was just was I was having around.

In my intentions is also to go back to the original Intake system, but I can't do it directly on the 3.0 heads, cause the heigh is different: i need to make 2 adapter spacer plates, and also find a solutions for the fuel injector.
On the 3.0 intakes the fuel injectors are on the intake side, on the old k-jetronic intake the inj are on the heads, so my plan will be to make that adapter spacer with injector bung welded on it, it space permits, or to modify the k-jetronic intake
welding in some place the fuel inj bungs.

I would like to do this for having more a stock appereance, i do have a "V" turbo Legend cast from Chris N. I would like to use, but I need the k-jetronic intake.
I like the idea of the remote throttle body that JoshDPI suggested, so i can use all the original throttle body parts of the stock engine.

[Delorean Industries]

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