Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Current configuration. (minus oil filter relocation that has been relocated again)
twin turbo DPI.jpg
Location: Houston
Posts: 707
My VIN: 16113
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
Don't go with the 3.57 board. Two of us got the 3.57 board and we spent hours trying to get it to work properly. We we borrowed a 3.0 box and installed it, the Delorean ran great. I still have the 3.57 board but Matt at DIYAutotune had to modify it for it to work and even now it's not 100%. I have to open it up and make another change inside. The other owner had his box switched out from 3.57 to 3.0 and now the car is running fine. Spittybug can go into more detals on why the 3.57 didn't work.
Shannon
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
Is it just ignition control when you have trouble with the 3.57? I am running fuel only and have zero problems with mine.
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Yes. There are work around solutions and I believe it can be/is addressed on all current boards.
Location: Houston
Posts: 707
My VIN: 16113
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
Location: Houston
Posts: 707
My VIN: 16113
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
To let everyone know what issues we had with the 3.57 box and what was done, here is an email from Matt with DYIAutoTune:
"The main difference between the V3.0 and V3.57 is the input impedance -
it's higher on the V3.0. I have shipped this one with three
resistor-on-a-wire jumpers to let you change the impedance. The one I
think will be the best bet is a 15K with green leads, and I have put
that in your ECU. There is also a red 10K and a blue 20K - use the red
one if it won't sync at low RPM, or the blue if it's having high RPM
problems but low RPM is fine."
This was the change he made in my box. When I took my car in to the dyno shop, there was sync loss (?) at very high RPM so I plan to swap the green lead with the blue one to see if that makes a difference.
Shannon
Posts: 841
Posts: 841
Here is my current "Twin-Turbo DeLorean Road Map" Please let me know if you see anything missing or out of line. Thanks!
-Purchased "Custom" Kit from DPI
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/performance/
-Turbos- Garrett 1548, "largest T25 flanged water-cooled available undersized for lower boost applications, they spool very fast and give a very nice power range. They do top out from testing at 390+ ft lbs"
-oil feed and drain lines and fittings (short one Eaton fitting for the oil feed on drivers side to turbo, DPI won’t have it until Friday, Dec 4th, so that will come separate in USPS envelope; don’t have it as of 12-11-15)
-Turbo coolant lines and fittings
-Compressor inlet piping
-Partial Compressor outlet piping
-K-JET bypass adapter plate and piping
-Silicone connectors and clamps
-header to turbo adapter pipes
-tail pipes
-Waste Gate dump pipes/adaptors (waiting from DPI; don’t have it as of 12-11-15)
-PCV fittings for valve covers
-Oil pan gasket
-Gussets between turbo and flange double gaskets one on each side of that others are waste gates and intake pipe supports
-To Buy List
-2 K&N air filters to fit in pontoons or inside lower trailing arm air deflectors, measure and select from here: http://www.jegs.com/v/K-N/599
-2 Blow-Off Valves – Vee Port Pro Turbo Smart http://www.jegs.com/i/Turbosmart/911...-1131/10002/-1
-2 Wastegates – Ultra-gate 38 Turbo Smart http://www.jegs.com/i/Turbosmart/911...-1102/10002/-1
-(2) 5 psi spring kits for the wastegates http://www.jegs.com/i/Turbosmart/911...-2002/10002/-1
-(6) 24 lb injectors – 45psi, http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/150624/10002/-1
-Fuel injector pigtails (6): http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...-ev1-p-48.html
-Fuel Rails - DPI Fuel Rails or
-Make my own from F.A.S.T. rail stock http://www.jegs.com/p/FAST/FAST-Univ...90014/10002/-1
-14MM is the diameter of the hole for the injector with spacing. Rail length is around 14”
-Special Drill bit borrowed from another DMCtalk member and have tracking number
-Wide band O2 sensor - Innovate http://www.jegs.com/i/Innovate+Motor.../3795/10002/-1
-Megasquirt base ms2- 3.0 (not 3.57 as the fly-back has odd fire issues) http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...unit-p-65.html
-Megasquirt ecu to relay board wiring harness- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...able-p-47.html
-Megasquirt Relay Board - http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...unit-p-32.html
-Megasquirt Relay Board Main Harness Wiring- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ong-p-101.html
-Megasquirt Tuning Cable- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...8c2e6fbfcef9f3
-Idle Motor Housing http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/c...00ec93729dfe37
-Need to figure out how to plumb this correctly into throttle body
-Step Idle Motor http://www.autozone.com/engine-manag...?checkfit=true
-Idle Motor pigtail http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...tail-p-70.html
-Software - tunerstudio is best version, registered unlocks a number of things that can help with drivability http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php.../tunerstudioms
-Alternator relocation bracket - Still need to find the pivot part; i can source the adjuster with rod ends like this:http://www.jegs.com/p/March-Performa...63396/10002/-1
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator – 13129 http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/13129/10002/-1
-Coolant sensor with pigtail – http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tail-p-58.html
-Coolant adaptor for at water pump – from DPI or drill out original to correct size (trying this first).
-map sensor – megasquirt MS2 already comes with one
-tps sensor – TCI brand part # 377400 plus Holley Part # 20-40 http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/377400/10002/-1
- http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20-40/10002/-1
or something more compact?
-intake temp sensor with pigtail – http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...8839d47a99c7c2 - mounted in lower metering housing.
-misc fuel lines (will you black hoses and fittings from JEGS)– the lines going to the return-to-tank and supply-from-tank lines, the threads are:
-M12 x 1.5 (Metric) fuel line will end in a male fitting that threads into the fuel filter
-http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/670510/10002/-1
-1/2-20"/-5 AN flare for the return to the tank. http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%...91907/10002/-1
-Better valve cover gaskets-Looking for a source for these
-To Do List
-drill and tap holes in block for turbo drain fittings
-lock advance mechanism in distributor and don’t connect vacuum line
-weld PCV system bungs into valve covers
-Remove old K-Jet Components –Cold Start Valve, Control Pressure Regulator (Warm Up Regulator), Fuel Injectors, Fuel Mixture Unit, Fuel Distributor, Fuel Hoses, Frequency Valve, any electronics, sensors, plugs, etc.
-Remove Cold Start Tube and plug intake manifold
-Map out the wiring for the relay board and MS2
-Tune for fuel first, then for igniton with MS2
What do you all think of this? Any other major specific parts I am missing or that I have incorrectly listed?
Last edited by DeloreanJoshQ; 01-01-2016 at 10:04 PM.
Location: Houston
Posts: 707
My VIN: 16113
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
Are you able to convert to EFI before installing the Turbo. If so I would recommend that in order to get it running first.
Shannon