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Thread: Ground Location List

  1. #21
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2011

    Location:  Gatlinburg, TN

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    My VIN:    1968

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    You can get into the pontoons if you remove the board...I'm just not sure that is what he was talking about.
    Oh, I see what you mean. I'll check that out.
    Thanks!
    Alex

  2. #22
    Senior Member aludden's Avatar
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    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    FYI,
    I just removed the back panel above the parcel shelf (just remove 4 cargo net hooks) and actually there you can see the back of the bulkhead connectors, no need to get into the pontoon.

    Once you do that, you see:
    1. the back of the bulkhead connectors
    2. a fat ground junction
    3. the back of the ground bolt by the coil, which connects to the harness
    4. the back of the positive bolt by the coil, which connects to the harness
    5. The harness that goes to the relay compartment

    So all those connections are well protected, inside the car.

    DSCN7174.jpg

  3. #23
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jan 2012

    Posts:    5

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    This is a collection of posts listing ground locations/information.
    If you know of any others, please add them here.
    Please start a new thread (or PM) for questions not related to the list.

    "There are two connections to the frame that are especially important.

    1. The battery negative cable is connected to the frame at the RH trailing arm bushing mount. The front M8 bolt fixes the cable to the frame. It must be clean and tight. That point is subject to a lot of suspension movement and the mounting bolts have a way of working loose. Not only can this be dangerous, but it will play hob with the electrics. Check these bolts as often as you check the TRBs themselves-twice a year at least.

    2. The other important ground is in the front, right behind the LF wheel. The M6 bolt that fixes the LH radiator stay also connects to ground an eyelet with a number of ground wires in it.

    A black cable attaches to the frame underneath the header bottle and bolts to the post, which is a piece of M8x1.25 brass stock, behind the coil in the RH front of the engine bay.

    The grounds up front go through the big connector above the washer reservoir.

    There's one near the radiator.

    There's one near the starter.

    There is one ground point on the left top of the intake manifold drivers side, several black wire cluster.
    It would be great if someone could put up some pics of these points.. They're descriptive of where to find them, but I want to be sure I know what I'm looking for..

  4. #24
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

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    Quote Originally Posted by john.frisina View Post
    It would be great if someone could put up some pics of these points.. They're descriptive of where to find them, but I want to be sure I know what I'm looking for..
    Pm me if you want Bill Robertson's email address. He has lots of pictures.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Fluxat88MPH's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Dayton, Ohio

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    So is ther a pdf with a final complete list with pictures? That would be a great resource.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluxat88MPH View Post
    So is ther a pdf with a final complete list with pictures? That would be a great resource.
    I'll take an action to draft rev 0 of that document. I don't have photos for everything yet, but let's see how it looks when I get it compiled and go from there. Give me a couple days and I'll have something for you.
    One damn minute Admiral...


  7. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by nullset View Post
    Thanks. Maybe now I can get 2930's instrument cluster working….

    --buddy
    Would it be beneficial to take those earth wires apart and run them to the chassis somewhere?

  8. #28
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmc4087 View Post
    Would it be beneficial to take those earth wires apart and run them to the chassis somewhere?
    It would be hard to get at that cluster of wires on the instrument panel. I found if you just remove the inertia switch ground (just cut it off) and connect it to the frame, that will fix the problems with that ground.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #29
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I'll take an action to draft rev 0 of that document. I don't have photos for everything yet, but let's see how it looks when I get it compiled and go from there. Give me a couple days and I'll have something for you.
    Did you ever draft that pdf?

  10. #30
    DeLorean owner since 2011 Stainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Syracuse, UT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I'll take an action to draft rev 0 of that document. I don't have photos for everything yet, but let's see how it looks when I get it compiled and go from there. Give me a couple days and I'll have something for you.
    Has it been a couple of days yet

    If a document like this exists, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks!
    Jared L.

    June '81, manual, black inter. VIN 2087
    Other cars: 2007 Mazda 6, 2000 Corolla, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
    DeLorean blog: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/

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