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Thread: 16949

  1. #11
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    123

    Okay, i'll order an ignition coil. Is the original stock the way to go? I see the pertronix, etc available.

    (All other things being equal, I'd like to stay original unless the original equipment is flawed.)

    On another note: what is the fix for this? I'm guessing it involves taking the door apart? I'd like to see if I have any hieroglyphics some day but not a priority. I've been stuffing it back, but it seems to be coming more undone. Is is okay to lower and raise window without this in place? Maybe I can just restick and tweezer it into place..?


  2. #12
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Vancouver, BC

    Posts:    3,384

    My VIN:    thirty two 'o five

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Just the upper door panel and then a nice big philips screw driver for the 8 or so screws holding that brace/guide/retainer in place.

    Go stock coil.

    Here, somewhere.

  3. #13
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    2,190

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I have been very happy with Bosch parts, so I would stay with the original.

    That part that's hanging is the inner drop glass seal (part 106063). Actually, I just replaced the same one (passenger side) last weekend as part of the window motor job. You have to take off the upper door trim, and then take off the black support bracket (108319) Edit: as Dave mentioned ^.
    The seal just clips on to the bracket.

    Here's a pic with the trim off...

    There's a video in this thread that shows how to remove the door trim:


    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  4. #14
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

    Posts:    2,659

    My VIN:    01643

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by sdg3205 View Post
    Go stock coil.
    Agreed; they are surprisingly robust.

  5. #15
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    123

    Although I am not happy with the replicar thing, I do have to give credit that DMCH shipped my order super fast, and everything was packaged well and labeled and all that. Very nicely done and professionally packaged. I like that each part had my name on it, it will be easier to keep track of parts that I've replaced versus other owners, in my paperwork files. I'm impressed with my order but otherwise still

    The unboxing: I bought the coil and some random things like the brush for the rims, covers for the stupid vent holes so my ac doesn't end up cooling my elbow, a cover so I don't keep hitting the window switches, and the car cleaner box. I don't know if those liquids will be any good (isn't this NOS?) after decades, but I wanted the scrubbie and I didn't like not having the box from the original owner as part of my collection.. so if the cleaners actually work that will be cool.

    This weekend I will figure out how to replace the coil. I will be so happy if this solves my issue.

    The Ikea container bev holder hack also came. I don't know what these things were meant for, maybe to hang off railings? If it works I will have some extras to ROAK..


  6. #16
    Senior Member Domi's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  France

    Posts:    2,413

    My VIN:    16951

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DOA) (DCUK)

    We are only 2 VIN away, I own 16951
    It's funny to see you have the ASI radio and mine had the Craig.

  7. #17
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    123

    Here's a link to a walk around I did

    I need to splice together the one of replacing the ignition coil.

    Unfortunately, I think the new ignition coil didn't fix the 40 minute issue. It was not as bad, but I think it still did it in an afterwards drive. So next step is to replace the rpm relay, remove the fuse box covers, and replace the fuel pump (again) with the all-in-one. Although if replacement boots are available, I may buy one and hold off on the all in one, since the fuel pump is new, the boot got cracked though and now it's rigged.

  8. #18
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    123

    Quote Originally Posted by Domi View Post
    We are only 2 VIN away, I own 16951
    It's funny to see you have the ASI radio and mine had the Craig.
    That's weird, I thought the Espey Buyer's Guide says that all 83 models had the ASI. But I know with the consolidateds that they used whatever parts they had.

    I have the skinny exhaust tips but I read there or somewhere that the late models got whatever tips were laying around.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Riley88's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2014

    Location:  Virginia Beach, Virginia

    Posts:    443

    My VIN:    5312

    Quote Originally Posted by 16949 View Post
    Emptied the fuel tank upon purchase. Breathed on the fuel pump, had to replace that and now the boot needs replacing. I plan to just swap for the all in one, I didn't want to replace with the old style in the first place and now I have a bunch of variables that have been changed.

    Meanwhile, I have to figure out what is causing it to run differently after 45 minutes. I am taking over repairs, where possible and I can plug stuff in so this is as good a place to start as any.

    I took some pics of my fuse box. Ordering bitsyncs rpm relay. Probably need other things too?

    Anyway, here's the Delorean porn:

    Attachment 39243Attachment 39244Attachment 39245Attachment 39246Attachment 39247

    the rpm relay is A MUST! Its awesome

  10. #20
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,851

    My VIN:    03572

    When we said to remove the fuse box cover, we meant the black plastic that shows the fuse numbers and only covers the fuses. I can see where you might have confused that we suggested the wooden cover over the whole relay compartment.

    So you don't need to leave that wooden cover off. Just remove the little black plastic cover hiding the fuse block.
    Dave M vin 03572

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