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Thread: 16949

  1. #21
    Mostly Harmless... refugeefromcalif's Avatar
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    Location:  Duncanville, Alabama USA

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    When we said to remove the fuse box cover, we meant the black plastic that shows the fuse numbers and only covers the fuses. I can see where you might have confused that we suggested the wooden cover over the whole relay compartment.

    So you don't need to leave that wooden cover off. Just remove the little black plastic cover hiding the fuse block.
    I've found that in Alabama, (in the summertime), I Have to leave that whole area uncovered to keep things cool enough. (DMCFL kept my fuse box cover last time they had it for service)...
    Might just be my cars electrical issues though...

    George
    George.



    1974 BMW RS90 motorcycle
    1981 DeLorean. Cruise Control, Wings-A-Loft, Eibach springs, Spax shocks, Stage1 exhaust, Manual, Grey and Grooved, LED clock and fixed pulls.
    1993 del Sol S (With a Few, Upgrades)
    2017 Chrysler Pacifica Limited

  2. #22
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  Florida

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    When we said to remove the fuse box cover, we meant the black plastic that shows the fuse numbers and only covers the fuses. I can see where you might have confused that we suggested the wooden cover over the whole relay compartment.

    So you don't need to leave that wooden cover off. Just remove the little black plastic cover hiding the fuse block.
    Yes, thank you, I did pick up that it was a cover inside, I just haven't gotten to it because I wanted to confirm that it was the black piece with the diagram

    In the meantime, I left the wood off thinking it would help circulate air. I thought about it and it didn't do the 40 minute thing back when the wooden cover was off. It might have been coincidence but I wasn't sure. There were too many tweaks the first weeks which makes trouble shooting hard.

  3. #23
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  Florida

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    Quote Originally Posted by refugeefromcalif View Post
    I've found that in Alabama, (in the summertime), I Have to leave that whole area uncovered to keep things cool enough. (DMCFL kept my fuse box cover last time they had it for service)...
    Might just be my cars electrical issues though...

    George
    Your experience is good to know, I'm in Fla and I can't rule out the trapped heat in there causing a problem. I need to rule out the replaced fuel pump, but then my focus is on this fuse area.. Judging by the sounds I hear I feel like the 40 minute problem is stemming from something in there..

  4. #24
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by refugeefromcalif View Post
    I've found that in Alabama, (in the summertime), I Have to leave that whole area uncovered to keep things cool enough. (DMCFL kept my fuse box cover last time they had it for service)...
    Might just be my cars electrical issues though...

    George
    Everything in there creates some heat. The RPM relay was the worst heat generator which is why that was my first item to redesign. A few people have created some fan and or vent holes in the wood cover.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #25
    Senior Member aotmfilms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16949 View Post
    Here's a link to a walk around I did
    https://youtu.be/yhParO_kFYk

    I need to splice together the one of replacing the ignition coil.

    Unfortunately, I think the new ignition coil didn't fix the 40 minute issue. It was not as bad, but I think it still did it in an afterwards drive. So next step is to replace the rpm relay, remove the fuse box covers, and replace the fuel pump (again) with the all-in-one. Although if replacement boots are available, I may buy one and hold off on the all in one, since the fuel pump is new, the boot got cracked though and now it's rigged.
    Just watched your video. Cool beans! For your seats you can do memory foam cushions and T-shirts over the seatbacks to save wear and tear on the covers until you can get them replaced. I do it so if people sit in my car and have something in their pockets it will go into the $50 dollar cushion instead of the $400 cover. (also if they are all sweaty it goes on the t-shirt and not on your leather, ewwww)

    (I like seeing other people's DeLoreans)

    --Doug
    Last edited by aotmfilms; 02-03-2016 at 12:27 PM.
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  6. #26
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida

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    Angry What is going on with this clicking?

    I apologize for how many times I say "clicking" in advance:
    https://youtu.be/dYAu4R3l040

    What is going on? I don't feel like this amount of clicking (and the (?blower?) fan not staying on) is not normal...

  7. #27
    Senior Member Gregadeth's Avatar
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    Location:  Los Angeles, CA

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    Quote Originally Posted by 16949 View Post
    I apologize for how many times I say "clicking" in advance:
    https://youtu.be/dYAu4R3l040

    What is going on? I don't feel like this amount of clicking (and the (?blower?) fan not staying on) is not normal...
    The clicking is from your fan relays (the two relays on the bottom left of the compartment). Sounds like your relays are bad.
    Last edited by Gregadeth; 03-22-2016 at 03:34 PM.

  8. #28
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregadeth View Post
    The clicking is from your fan relays (the two relays on the bottom left of the compartment). Sounds like your relays are bad.

    Clear and simple, thank you. I'll add to my shopping list. It doesn't sound like that would contribute to the 40 minute issue, but might (?) contribute to why my ac isn't working again. (PO just fixed ac <1000 miles ago when I bought it 7 months ago).

  9. #29
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    When your AC is switched on, that turns the compressor on which also turns the radiator cooling fans via the fan relay. There are two circuit breakers, one for the radiator fans and one for the blower which also would click if they are going open circuit (to much current draw).

    If you run the AC without running the blower at a high speed, the AC will probably cycle (turn on and off) very quickly.

    Your blower circuit breaker should be a 30 amp. breaker. Some early cars they used a 25 amp breaker and it would cause the blower to cycle.

    If your AC is cycling that quickly, you may be low on refrigerant. The fan relay is normal to make a clicking sound when it turns the radiator fans on and off.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #30
    Senior Member 16949's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    When your AC is switched on, that turns the compressor on which also turns the radiator cooling fans via the fan relay. There are two circuit breakers, one for the radiator fans and one for the blower which also would click if they are going open circuit (to much current draw).

    If you run the AC without running the blower at a high speed, the AC will probably cycle (turn on and off) very quickly.

    Your blower circuit breaker should be a 30 amp. breaker. Some early cars they used a 25 amp breaker and it would cause the blower to cycle.

    If your AC is cycling that quickly, you may be low on refrigerant. The fan relay is normal to make a clicking sound when it turns the radiator fans on and off.
    AC was working I think up until this week. This is fla so it's hard to tell for sure since I'm coming off of winter a/c usage

    The clicking was worse in the video when I had the fan on high so I don't think it was cycling for the ac/low blow reason.

    The car had only been running a few minutes in the driveway so it wasn't the 40 minute issue. But I think there's a connection and the clicking is related to the issue. It may just be the symptom and not the problem, though. Car temp isn't getting hot (although the temp gauge always seems lazy) that I can tell. If there was an issue with the radiator fan wouldn't the temp start to rise?

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