Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
Yes if the radiator fans fail, your temp gauge should show you engine is running hot. Now in the winter, you may have enough air passing over the radiator when driving to not overheat.
Your oil gauge seems to be jumping when the fans were turning on and off. I would check the two power feed throughs (+12 volt and ground) which are behind the rear wood panel below the rear window.
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
That's the relay turning on the radiator fan. It should not be cycling that much. Usually that's indicative that the AC system needs a re-charge... which could indicate a bigger problem.Originally Posted by 16949
Take it to someplace that does AC work and have them drain the system adn pull a vacuum to see if there's a leak. If not, then a recharge should do it.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
Connected to fan failure wiring unit, looks fried...
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Location: Florida
Posts: 124
http://store.delorean.com/p-7225-wire-link-fused.aspx is this the way to go or is there something better?
Eta:Looks like i have the blue unit, guess i need to get the relay update kit, or the improved. .
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Last edited by 16949; 04-10-2016 at 01:37 PM.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
Those BUSS manufacturer fuses will not blow open if your current is close to the rating (20 amps.) I have seen this from about 5 other owners. Get fuses made by LITTLEFUSE. And your fans are probably drawing way to much current.
How can I tell that is a BUSS fuse? It has a "Z" shaped fuse element. The other manufactures use the "little bump" shaped element.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...t=fuse+testing
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 04-10-2016 at 02:21 PM.
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
Scary to hear of the fire someone had from it, wow.. mine was tucked up, over and into the corridor so it was hidden and not even specified in the old manuals. So i never looked there until i was looking in another Delorean's compartment last week and wondered where my fuse was..
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Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Hi Ms. 16949 (sorry, don't know your name),
When you hear people talking about the "blue unit," it's in reference to what used to be in that spot on your car, thankfully.
Have a look at this service bulletin. It explains what the issue was, what the solution was, and how that three-way wire link was supposed to be (and which spots it plugged into on the blue socket).
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-06-9.82.html
You don't need to change out the blue socket, although confirming the connections underneath are still good wouldn't be a bad idea.
But, yes, getting that fused three-way wire link from DMCH, in addition to the other fuses and relays that are part of that kit is a good idea and a good thing to upgrade on your car if still running all the originals.
And if Dave advises against the "Z" shaped fuse element types, then I would think that's good advice to follow too. That's out of my area of expertise, so I'd go with his suggestion on the in particular type of fuses.
This is a photo of how it looked on my car when I put the replacement in soon after getting the car:
Fan fail relay socket wiring.jpg
And this is about what it looked like the day I got the car (it had the three-way wire without the fuses in it like the bulletin mentions):
IMG_1406.jpg
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
That makes sense, thank you. .. Since mine is an 83,it would have already had the replacement, altho reading the bulletin that sounds like it was not intended to be the permanent fix (?). .
Now to read about fanzilla and joe cool, i guess..
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Location: France
Posts: 2,457
My VIN: 16951
Club(s): (DCO) (DOA) (DCUK)
I have the joe cool unit and it's working really nice
42.JPG
No more worries
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
Not really anything to update the past month, no parts and no time.
I ordered specialt's relay upgrade kit last week. I sent them an email today for shipping eta, as next weekend I really need to work on this, I don't want a fire. I researched locally, o'reilly sells littelfuse's so I stopped there and bought some fuses and a fuse holder to replace the melted one. I hate wasting money on buying stuff twice but I was tired of not driving my car at all. I got home and realized that the existing 2nd fuse holder did not match (and wouldn't really work with the one I bought) so I would have to go back anyway and buy another one (not to mention the two I am waiting for from specialT) so rather than keep hacking I gave up and emailed specialt for an eta on shipping. I did change out the fuses in the meanwhile just not the one I am concerned about (the fan fail replacement inline). My #2 was burnt out, I put it in with the number "upside down" so I can track it if burns out again.
I also ordered the all-in-one fuel pump today (from dmc). More "wasted" money because I just paid for the old style pump in October and a few other related parts back when I let my bf order and replace that when I first bought it. I don't want to keep throwing good money after bad, so I bought the all in one and I guess I will fire-sale the original. I didn't want the original in the first place, so annoying to flush a couple hundred but I'm learning that's how year one ownership works
And, after reading through the concours manual, I am 88% of the way to giving up that concours one-day goal. Even though I think my car is as close to an ideal starting point for concours as you can buy for a 33 year old car, I am just not sure the work is worth the payback to get the rest of the way to concours. (I welcome opinions on that, if I am right or wrong?) And then at the end of the day, do I want a concours car or one that has some more reliable components installed.. (?) I may need to give some thought into the cost versus the value to get from "here" to "there", I guess.
I also ordered the Major Service kit today (from dmc) with:
"(1) 100523 Fuel Filter with Pad (1) 101069 Lambda Sensor (1) 102114B Oil Filter, Bosch (1) 102249 Gasket, Rocker CVR RH-123 (1) 102256 Gasket, Rocker CVR LH-456 (1) 102442 Belt, Alternator (6) 102443 Spark Plug - Silver (1) 102575 Air Filter Element (1) 102604 Rotor, Distributor (1) 102606 Cap, Distributor (1) 102702A Aftermarket Ignition Wire Set (Improved boots) (1) 105505 Drive Belt, A/C" ---
because I already saw some wear on the belts so it can't hurt to replace all that this year.
It's a bit overwhelming to figure out who to order what from, and why, and how long it will take to receive. I'm generation X so I <3 the 80s, but I also buy most everything from Amazon prime same day arrival... I am sure it is frustrating to companies that have been supplying parts for 35 years to suddenly operate under the modern expectations for shipping. I remember in the 90s buying something online and not expecting it for a month - if ever! But I still don't want to wait a long time for parts and I do have to say that DMC has a great shipping department/process. (So is Bitsynmaster great at shipping faster than I can even get to repairing).
So nothing new, just parts ordered. I haven't driven my car in a couple of weeks because of my concern over the inline fuse being melted. When I started it today, it didn't start for many attempts. I had the battery off for weeks so I knew it wasn't that and it was turning over fine. So I kept turning to let it prime and back a bunch of times and I guess that got enough fuel loaded up to where it started. I didn't have the problem again today. I'm not going to worry about that too much until I get the all in one put in. This is the first time it wouldn't start for a dozen attempts, though...
I am really looking forward to putting the all in one in, because it will rule out the big UNKNOWN I've had for the 40 minute quirk.
Last edited by 16949; 05-01-2016 at 05:11 PM.
Dave M vin 03572
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