Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
We have many if not all of the parts mentioned here and many other DMCH NLA's either new, used, or reconditioned but please don't ask that they be put on our website just yet as my priorities need to be elsewhere at this point in time. If anyone is really curious about a rare or unavailable part all they need to do is call, text, PM, or email me and I'll be happy to provide info.
Rob Grady
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
I agree, the original boots are terrible. Even before my engine swap, mine were always tearing. I replaced my boots about 2 years ago, and within 6 months, 2 had torn. Totally unacceptable. At that point I was done with using original boots and started searching for other options.
The first picture is my stock boots, which tore shortly after. I bought the boots in the middle picture and never looked back. The picture on the right is the new boots installed.
1 Old.jpg2 Boots.jpg3 New.jpg
These guys take CV joint boots pretty seriously since loosing a boot on a dune buggy or rock crawler, can mean the quick destruction of a CV joint. They have several different options, including a double boot system (inner boot and outer boot) for extreme protection.
The options are:
Conical Boots: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501111b-930.html
Tapered Boots.jpg
If I still had the stock boot flanges, I'd be using these. The extra ridges ensure that the rubber never exceeds the elastic range when the joint pivots and rotates. The stock boots can be under a lot of stress when fully the joint is at its extreme angle.
Barrel Shaped Boots:http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501111be-930.html
Barrel Boots.jpg
Not sure if there are any advantages to these, but it seems like these would only be advantageous if you were rarely angling the joint. I'd take the conical boots over these.
Large boot: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501112b-930.html
Large Flange Boot.jpg
This is what I have now. Very robust. You do however have to change your boot flanges over to the large boot flange. (below)
Large Flange: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501112f-930.html
Large Flange.jpg
These are required to use the large boots. Since the boots go over the bolts, you have to install the shaft, then slide the boot onto the flange. You also dont need the little crescent moon shaped washers with these flanges because the material is 3 or 4 times the thickness. The main advantage of these is that because of how they're designed, they allow the ball bearings to safely travel a bit further, meaning that axles can safely operate at a larger angle than the stock flanges. This was one of my biggest considerations for using them. These flanges are machined for 3/8-24 bolts instead of M10 bolts, so it is necessary to run a 10.5mm or 11mm drillbit through them to be sure the M10 bolts clear.
Double boot: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501114f-930.html
Double Boot.jpg
Not sure why we would ever need these, but they're still cool. Need a flange that has an attachment for both boots.
Hope this helps! Here's to no more torn boots!
Last edited by Nicholas R; 02-05-2016 at 03:01 AM.
Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 342
My VIN: 02261
Club(s): (PNDC)
Many years ago the then Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club president Arnie Brandon recommended to me do not throw away any used parts as they may be of value some day, to some one, some where. DMC Northwest has a collection of used corroded parts from DeLoreans that have been used and abused. I'm referring to miscellaneous engine parts, metal brackets for the muffler, brake caliper pistons, old original alternators, fuel lines with the banjo fittings still attached. These parts aren't worth much today or tomorrow but some day they could be.
Josh thanks for the info regarding the Universal Joint. Back in 2013 I just blindly believed I had to buy good used instead of a new replacement universal joint.
Rob thanks for chiming in on the replacement parts. I have been getting more and more paranoid about parts scarcity.
Mark Vanyo
Links to DeLorean related web sites!
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19...s-Part-I-of-II.
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,108
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
I've seen some pictures of your stamped stainless ones of the day. If you could get more that were stamped like the factory ones that would be great and I'd definitely be interested in one! Plates in either stainless or aluminum are easy to come by but they're flat aside from the front lip! If I need to pay upwards of $300 for one that isn't stamped, I'll just put a sheet of stainless or aluminum in my brake and make my own!
-----Dan B.