Striker pin adjustment needed?

[Edwin5814]

I found it very useful to slacken the striker pin just enough so that when the door latch comes down to meet it it pushes it into position. The secret is to hold the exterior handle up ALL the time whilst gently pushing the door down. Don't let go of the door handle, keep it in the up position until you bring the door back up again. That way the door latch doesn't close on the striker pin. Hope that makes sense.
Let me know how you get on.

Roberto

+1

Thanks this worked for me. Tighten the striker pin finger tight. Pull up and don't let go of the door handle as you close and then open the door.

[DMC-81]

Excellent feedback everyone. Many thanks.

I'll post my results.

Cheers,

[DMC-81]

I found it very useful to slacken the striker pin just enough so that when the door latch comes down to meet it it pushes it into position. The secret is to hold the exterior handle up ALL the time whilst gently pushing the door down. Don't let go of the door handle, keep it in the up position until you bring the door back up again. That way the door latch doesn't close on the striker pin. Hope that makes sense.
Let me know how you get on.

Roberto

Interim update: I was able to mostly correct the driver door misalignment within 10 minutes using this technique and a thin wooden shim at the bottom of the door. Then I used painters tape to mark reference points to further adjust. When i removed the rear pin, I discovered that it was very loose....root cause! It corrected the door getting stuck as well.

After I put the new seals on, I'll fine tune it.

Thanks all for the great advice!

Question: is there a torque spec for tightening the striker pins?

[Patrick C]

After I put the new seals on, I'll fine tune it.

Thanks all for the great advice!

Before you do that, lubricate the new seals well and let the car sit in the hot sun for a few days so the seals take the shape of the door better.

[David T]

Interim update: I was able to mostly correct the driver door misalignment within 10 minutes using this technique and a thin wooden shim at the bottom of the door. Then I used painters tape to mark reference points to further adjust. When i removed the rear pin, I discovered that it was very loose....root cause! It corrected the door getting stuck as well.

After I put the new seals on, I'll fine tune it.

Thanks all for the great advice!

Question: is there a torque spec for tightening the striker pins?

Very tight! Make sure it doesn't move as you tighten it.

[DMC-81]

Before you do that, lubricate the new seals well and let the car sit in the hot sun for a few days so the seals take the shape of the door better.

Thanks for the tips.

Very tight! Make sure it doesn't move as you tighten it.

Thanks David. I was hoping for a spec, as there is a plastic/fiberglass infill panel involved. I don't want to crack it. I understand the pins are an M12? A zinc plated 8.8 grade M12 bolt has a general tightening spec of 55 ft/lbs on a Fastenal chart. Do you know if it's more or less than that?

I noticed the pin's tendency to move while tightening. I'll watch out for that.

[David T]

There is no torque spec. The fiberglass is only captured between the captive nut and the striker pin. I doubt you can overtighten it or strip the threads. if you want a torque aim for over 55 ft/lbs. Do it in steps so it doesn't move around. Before you really crank on it make sure it is right where you want it.