Brake light switch replacement?

[Timebender]

Hi guys,
My brake light switch has been a bit problematic. At first it was just stuck, and a little WD40 seemed to fix the issue. I noticed the other night my brake lights weren't working again, and so checked the fuse first. It looked fine, but there's a 15 amp vs. 30 (or should it be 20?). So I checked the switch and the plunger was stuck. So I wd40'd it again, and I could see it sparking inside the case, but it on,y did that a few times then stopped.
So I'm guessing it's time for a new switch.
Does Radio Shack have an equivalent, and I'm guessing it's held in with a nut on the plunger side.

Thanks,
Greg

[David T]

Hi guys,
My brake light switch has been a bit problematic. At first it was just stuck, and a little WD40 seemed to fix the issue. I noticed the other night my brake lights weren't working again, and so checked the fuse first. It looked fine, but there's a 15 amp vs. 30 (or should it be 20?). So I checked the switch and the plunger was stuck. So I wd40'd it again, and I could see it sparking inside the case, but it on,y did that a few times then stopped.
So I'm guessing it's time for a new switch.
Does Radio Shack have an equivalent, and I'm guessing it's held in with a nut on the plunger side.

Thanks,
Greg

It is #18 (bottom right side) and it should be a 20 amp fuse. That you can get locally. While you are at it check all of the other fuses to make sure they are the right size. Refer to M:07:03 in your Workshop Manual. They should have put the sizes on the fuseblock cover. You won't find a replacement switch at the Shack. Try your favorite Delorean vendor and you can probably fill out the order with some filters (oil and air) at least. R & R ing the stop light switch M:14:02 Fig 59. There is no spec on adjustment but you should adjust it so when the pedal bracket just touches the plunger it turns off the brake lights.

[Timebender]

Thanks Dave! I actually don't have the fuse block cover, so looks like I should get one.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks Dave! I actually don't have the fuse block cover, so looks like I should get one.

Don't install the fuse box cover over the fuses. The fuses can produce a lot of heat and the cover just makes it worse.

[Timebender]

Got it. I should get the work shop manual though.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Hi guys,
My brake light switch has been a bit problematic. At first it was just stuck, and a little WD40 seemed to fix the issue. I noticed the other night my brake lights weren't working again, and so checked the fuse first. It looked fine, but there's a 15 amp vs. 30 (or should it be 20?). So I checked the switch and the plunger was stuck. So I wd40'd it again, and I could see it sparking inside the case, but it on,y did that a few times then stopped.
So I'm guessing it's time for a new switch.
Does Radio Shack have an equivalent, and I'm guessing it's held in with a nut on the plunger side.

Thanks,
Greg

The switch is readily available from most venders (including us) for around ten bucks. It's not worth the trouble trying to crossreference it in the interest of saving money. Your biggest problem will be getting the wrench in there at the proper angle to replace it. You'll need a stubby M14 wrench.
Rob

[DMC5180]

Fwiw: not all cars use fuse 18. Some have an inline fuse in harness.

[Timebender]

I bought a Volvo switch just to test if it's the switch that's bad or something else, and it is the switch. And it looks like it might fit where either stock one is. I did order a new one, but have a car show Wednesday I have to go to, and don't want to be driving without brake lights.
So the question is, what tool should I use to loosen the nut on the backside of the plate? It's a very tight spot and I can't get a crescent wrench in there, and normal needle nose pliers are too long.
Maybe angled needle nose pliers, or a teeny tiny vise grip?

[Timebender]

I managed to replace my brake light switch last night with one from a 1981 Volvo- pretty much the same fit though the hole had to be made slightly larger.
No one told me what looked like a 10 minute job would take almost 4 hours. Why 4 hours you may ask?

First, getting the old one out wasn't easy, as the nut that held it was seized. A liberal spray of WD40 kind of helped but not much.
Second, ever try getting a pair of needle nose or very small vice grips in there with the pedals in the way?
Third, if someone told me the DeLorean was built mostly by Leprechauns before I had one I would have thought it was a fun Irish joke about the car being made in Ireland.
Turns out it was built mostly by Leprechauns, as no normal sized person (or normal sized giant in my case) can fit comfortably in there to get the switch out using both hands, and then get the other one in, which was almost impossible. Not completely, but almost.

At the end of my 4 hour journey, I was able to get the nut behind the mount, get the switch in, and turn it to accept the nut, as well as tighten down enough. Hooked up the two wires which went on fine, and now I have brake lights once again.

It should not have taken 4 hours and I'm sure it would have been less had I the shop manual, or some advice here at the least on how to remove and replace it.

Next purchase: Shop manual.

The nice thing about the Volvo switch is it's not cheap plastic.

[Timebender]

Even if I had downloaded the manual, it's not all that helpful.



Really? Man am I GLAD that I looked it up to see if I did it right...

They obviously forgot to add a disclaimer that all work must be performed BY A LEPRECHAUN...