VIN: 2964 Fuse Box, ID some stuff

[1batt4u]

Hi all,


Good to see the forum back up!!!

I just finished installing, FINALLY the lock/unlock solenoids!! Bought both door upgrade, door poppers with alarm unit, and trunk opener from Wings-A-Loft!! At the moment installed just the solenoids for the door poppers!! Opened the fuse box to connect the Door upggrade new fuse and harness! Here is the picture of how I found everything!


I found the harness for the door locks unplugged as you can see. I circled 3 in green. 2 are unplugged, I have no idea from what, and another seems like a metal relay, what is that for, and would that needed changing? MEaning need an new imprived relay or anything else you guys see that need to be fixed/upgraded??

Thank you all!!

[Chris 16409]

The big metal relay is one of the main relays that is powered when you turn the key on. There are two of them, one turns on with the first key position, and the second turns on at the second key position. Currently, there are not really any "upgrades" for this relay. The are supposed to be pretty reliable.

The white plastic relay socket is for an optional "hot start relay" that never made it into production. People have since made their own hot start relays over the years. I have one of Bitsyncmaster's solid state hot start relays. Don't worry if you don't have one.

The next thing I have to ask is whether your car currently runs. The third plug appears to be the socket for the RPM relay. I don't see a relay there, so your fuel pump isn't going to run. Did you pull the relay, or did your car not come with one? Unless perhaps the RPM relay was bypassed or something.

I've noticed you've still got the original door lock module installed. I think this would be a good time to get rid of it and get one of the new units from DMCH.

[Mike C.]

Chris pretty much has it right on the head.

The Top white socket is not used, so it is ok if that is empty.

The middle one (the one slightly to the right) is DEFINITELY for your RPM relay. Where it be, i do not know. It should be plugged in there.

The lower relay, judging by the wiring schematic is your auxillary relay, and it should be mounted and not just dangling there.


A great tool for helping you decode weird little plugs and whatnot is the color wiring diagram, which can be found in our resources section It has saved me a number of times!

Good luck with your install!

-Mike

Edit: More help - With the large aux relay (lower left circled relay)... If you look down and to the right approximately 2 inches, you will see another relay just like it. The loose one mounts to the screw hold just above that mounted relay.

[1batt4u]

Thank you for the reply guys!!

MY car does run!! The fuel pump actually works when the car is not running, even when the key is turned to ON position it still pumps.
I guess the previous owner or before him did some stuff.

I just started to work on my car now. I'm pretty much almost done with the doors. I did everything on them. I bought from Wings-A-Loft the door lock upgrades, door popper/alarm system, and trunk opener!
I instelled the door lock upgrade harness yesterday after I took the picture. I should have taken a picture of it. Chris, you mentioned about getting rid of the old door lock module? Don't I need it cause some wires to the old harness are connected??

Thank you!

[Chris 16409]

MY car does run!! The fuel pump actually works when the car is not running, even when the key is turned to ON position it still pumps. I guess the previous owner or before him did some stuff.

As I suspected, a previous owner must have bypassed the RPM relay. They probably couldn't find a replacement part, so they had to bypass it. I don't think it's good in the long term to run the car without the RPM relay. You might consider returning the wiring to the stock set up. I'm sure Dave (Bitsyncmaster) can chime in and help you reverse this modification. Some wire must have been jumpered to allow the fuel pump to always run. Usually you can install a jumper wire on the connector itself to force the pump to run. But obviously this was done a different way on your car.

You mentioned about getting rid of the old door lock module? Don't I need it cause some wires to the old harness are connected?

I can't tell from your picture, but other wires from the harness should't be connected to the pigtail coming off the module itself. It's best to splice any wires from your alarm or remote unlock system to the main harness side of the lock module wiring. If it's wired like this, then you can easily replace the door lock module in the future.

I suppose since you've got Toby's door lock actuators, you may be able to get away with using the original door lock module. The old style solenoids is one of the reasons the original lock modules would wig out.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You better check how they wired that fuel pump. If they wired it to an existing relay or just the key signal. The pump runs about 8 amps so it would not be good running it from the key switch. Also the circuit may be overloaded depending on how it was wired. Since you still have the RPM connector I would guess to revert back to normal would just be removing a jumper. Do you have the inertia switch in the drivers side foot well?