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Thread: Uh oh. A/C not blowing cold.

  1. #41
    Senior Member Morpheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Have you watched the assembly videos? It's a piece of cake!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKExoJPH9NQ

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pN8906gP1wU
    Those videos DO make it look easy. So I take it these hold up well over time? Has anyone (that has gone this route) had any issues?
    Brandon S.

    2014 Honda Civic EX
    2007 Volvo S60R


  2. #42
    Senior Member Morpheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik View Post
    That's right, Brandon. I recommend addressing that leaky shaft seal before the compressor clutch's wear surfaces get coated with oil; when/if that happens the slipping clutch will overheat and potentially cause all sorts of damage.

    As far as serviceability, the SD-510 is no longer in production so finding the (so called) mechanical seal (as opposed to the SD7's lip seal), you are likely not going to find the parts or tools you need. I looked at Sanden's SD7/SD5 service manual; it covers all service aspects of the compressor but it does not cover shaft seal replacement. It does list the SD7's lip seal tool at the end but as far as the 510: No mention of how to replace the seal or what the tool would (or rather, used to) look like.

    Long story short - replace that pump!
    Am I also right in assuming that leaky shaft seal = losing freon as well? I have noticed a reduction in cooling ability as of recent.
    Brandon S.

    2014 Honda Civic EX
    2007 Volvo S60R


  3. #43
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    PJ Grady also sells hoses and his ends at the compressor come off so they can be installed easily. Replacing the compressor is the way to go, no way to tell if the new seal you get will also leak! Be careful with the new one, make sure it has enough of the proper oil in it. Some come dry and some have -134 oil in them. A leaking shaft seal means you lose oil AND refrigerant. I do not recommend field crimping unless there is no other way. You are dealing with HIGH pressures and if you don't do it exactly right the fittings can blow off. Also if you do not index the fittings correctly and put any twist on the hoses it will shorten the life of the hose.
    David Teitelbaum

  4. #44
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheus View Post
    Am I also right in assuming that leaky shaft seal = losing freon as well? I have noticed a reduction in cooling ability as of recent.
    Correct.

  5. #45
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    make sure it has enough of the proper oil in it. Some come dry and some have -134 oil in them.
    During my years at Sanden, we never shipped dry compressors, and I do not believe that has changed. And once R134a became the de facto industry standard - in the mid 90s - we always shipped it with SP-15, i.e. "134 oil".

    BTW, the type and amount of oil shows right on the compressor's label: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...l=1#post200761

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik View Post
    During my years at Sanden, we never shipped dry compressors, and I do not believe that has changed. And once R134a became the de facto industry standard - in the mid 90s - we always shipped it with SP-15, i.e. "134 oil".

    BTW, the type and amount of oil shows right on the compressor's label: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...l=1#post200761
    Often parts like A/C compressors are shipped "dry" because some shippers are very fussy about packages dripping oil. In any case good practice would be to check that it has oil in it BEFORE you try using it! It won't last very long at all if it IS dry. If you go to the Sanden website there are instructions on how to make a dipstick and in the Workshop Manual it tells you how to measure the oil level.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #47
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Often parts like A/C compressors are shipped "dry" because some shippers are very fussy about packages dripping oil. In any case good practice would be to check that it has oil in it BEFORE you try using it! It won't last very long at all if it IS dry. If you go to the Sanden website there are instructions on how to make a dipstick and in the Workshop Manual it tells you how to measure the oil level.
    I give up...

  8. #48
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheus View Post
    Those videos DO make it look easy. So I take it these hold up well over time? Has anyone (that has gone this route) had any issues?
    I'm about to install this system over the next week with a new compressor, dryer, and condenser. In hand all parts seem quality and there isn't much negative about it on the internet. I like that it will be easy to index and crimp once the hoses are routed to keep the connectors as stress free as possible.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  9. #49
    Senior Member Morpheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I'm about to install this system over the next week with a new compressor, dryer, and condenser. In hand all parts seem quality and there isn't much negative about it on the internet. I like that it will be easy to index and crimp once the hoses are routed to keep the connectors as stress free as possible.
    I look forward to seeing your results! Will you be posting pics of the process?
    Brandon S.

    2014 Honda Civic EX
    2007 Volvo S60R


  10. #50
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheus View Post
    I look forward to seeing your results! Will you be posting pics of the process?
    I'll try to take some as I go. I have a bunch of stuff before DCS and its a bit like cramming for an exam!
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

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