1. I had a brake problem a while back (some of you probably remember this), and a lot of the symptoms of that problem stemmed from braking extremely hard. Thanks to Sean coming over and helping me replace the brake master cylinder, everything seemed to be working again. Unfortunately last week I was driving the car and had to brake hard, and the exact same symptoms have resurfaced - after hard braking the brake pedal becomes easier and easier to push, eventually going to the floor with ease, and only pumping the brakes to build pressure can make it easy to stop the car. No brake fluid leaks that I can see.
2. This noise has been happening for quite some time. I talked about it at the last SEDOC get-together, but by the time I'd gotten there (presumably after the engine had warmed sufficiently), there was no trace of it. But after sitting overnight I can start the car and reliably reproduce it every time.
Best guess is that it's possibly a bearing in the water pump. It doesn't seem to be a slipping belt. Anyone have any other thoughts before I start considering the massive project that is a water pump replacement?
You can pull the belts and run a cold engine for a short time to narrow down that noise problem.
I thought about this, but the idea of running a 35 year-old engine without the belts didn't sound like a dream plan. I guess the idea is to take them all off then add them back one by one to find out which component is causing the noise?
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Brakes....my guess is your MC is bad again. Are you using DOT 4 fluid?
Yup. Valvoline DOT 3/4 Synthetic. Sean would have rightly beaten my ass if I didn't buy the right stuff.
I sure as hell hope the MC isn't failing. It's barely 3 years old, if that.
The bearing noise is probably the alternator (most likely) or the idler pulley bearings (usually sounds like an old washing machine w/cold). Remove the a/c belt first and listen. We always change the a/c belt, idler bearings, and cam plate o-ring at the same time. The water pump would be my last choice as the bearings almost never go bad. If you take off the alternator belt and the noise is gone spin the alternator and the water pump and see if either squeaks or feels slightly rough when turning it.
Rob
I thought about this, but the idea of running a 35 year-old engine without the belts didn't sound like a dream plan. I guess the idea is to take them all off then add them back one by one to find out which component is causing the noise?
Yup. Valvoline DOT 3/4 Synthetic. Sean would have rightly beaten my ass if I didn't buy the right stuff.
I sure as hell hope the MC isn't failing. It's barely 3 years old, if that.
We use only Castrol LMA DOT 4 which is the factory recommended fluid. Where did you get the master as some new ones don't last too long these days.
Rob
The bearing noise is probably the alternator (most likely) or the idler pulley bearings (usually sounds like an old washing machine w/cold). Remove the a/c belt first and listen. We always change the a/c belt, idler bearings, and cam plate o-ring at the same time. The water pump would be my last choice as the bearings almost never go bad. If you take off the alternator belt and the noise is gone spin the alternator and the water pump and see if either squeaks or feels slightly rough when turning it.
Rob
Thanks for the tips. That's (sort of) good news. I was not looking forward to the idea of a water pump replacement. I'll give your ideas a go this week.
Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc.
We use only Castrol LMA DOT 4 which is the factory recommended fluid. Where did you get the master as some new ones don't last too long these days.
Thanks for the tips. That's (sort of) good news. I was not looking forward to the idea of a water pump replacement. I'll give your ideas a go this week.
DMCH.
Yeah I've seen that before as have others I'm aware of. Perhaps you would try one of our brass sleeved units if longevity is important to you. Sometimes it pays to spend a few extra bucks up front to get something that will last a lot longer.
Rob
Yeah I've seen that before as have others I'm aware of. Perhaps you would try one of our brass sleeved units if longevity is important to you. Sometimes it pays to spend a few extra bucks up front to get something that will last a lot longer.
Absolutely. I'd be happy to give yours a shot, especially if it's built to last.
I thought about this, but the idea of running a 35 year-old engine without the belts didn't sound like a dream plan. I guess the idea is to take them all off then add them back one by one to find out which component is causing the noise?
Not an issue, so long as you dont run it too long (>2-3mins) or drive it. The concern is overheating as the waterpump is not spinning. if the engine dies due to lack of an alternator in this short time you should be buying a new battery. Id put my money on the A/C belt idler.
Not an issue, so long as you dont run it too long (>2-3mins) or drive it. The concern is overheating as the waterpump is not spinning. if the engine dies due to lack of an alternator in this short time you should be buying a new battery. Id put my money on the A/C belt idler.
The idler is the most common bearing failure on the D for sure but not usually with such a high pitched squeal. I've seen a lot of poor quality bearings in Delco alternators over the years do this however so if a Delco is involved here it would be my prime suspect.
Rob