Carb Conversion "Kits" ETA March-April 2016

[content22207_2]

If any owners would like to run a mechanical fuel pump, and don't want to tap in new barbs themselves, just send me the pump and I'll be happy to do it.

I still recommend leaving the electric pump in the tank. Just unplug it. Mechanical pump can pull through a de-energized electric pump no problem. You need some way to interface a fuel line to the tank anyway, either a de-energized electric pump or a hose barb screwed into the carrier where the pump used to be.

Plus a de-energized electric pump can serve as a backup in case of mechanical pump failure (converse also is true: electric pump can push through a stationary -- failed -- mechanical pump diaphragm no problem. That's how I fill an empty bowl rather than cranking and cranking until enough fuel is drawn from the front of the car -- my electric pump is wired to an on/off switch under the knee pad).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[MountainGoat]

I actually suspect my KJet problems are fuel pump related so I have no attachments to my current pump. I'd rather run the electric pump provided by Bill, so I will get a replacement boot from DMCH.

The mechanical pump is interesting and might be a cool future enhancement, but for right now I just want to get the basic setup to run.

[content22207_2]

That would be my recommendation, not only for the fuel pump, but also for things such as plugging disused sensors in the coolant distribution pipe, rerouting or removing disused K-Jet wiring, even painting the engine compartment. Since it's so easy to pop the intake manifold off, there's no reason not to tackle other projects one at a time -- no need to do them all at once.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

there's no reason not to tackle other projects one at a time -- no need to do them all at once.

If your coolant hoses are old or suspect I would do them while the intake manifold is off (or soon after an inaugural test drive around the block).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[MountainGoat]

If your coolant hoses are old or suspect I would do them while the intake manifold is off (or soon after an inaugural test drive around the block).

Bill Robertson
#5939

Yeah, I would assume something is leaking or in bad shape in there. There's definitely coolant in the valley. I was going to research tonight how to diagnose where it's coming from. I'm probably the first person in the valley since the car was assembled, and those hoses look quite old.

[content22207_2]

Could well be coming from the steel coolant return pipe. Those things are known to rust through. That pipe serves no purpose other than locating a barb on the backside of the engine to facilitate assembly line manufacture. My recommendation is to replace it with a contiguous length of hose.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

My intake valley with a contiguous heater core return hose (my pump back has a 3/4" barb so I made a brass fitting to transition from 5/8"):

IntakeValley.jpg

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

Most failures I've heard about have been related to the check valve, and has been fixed by adding an external valve.

Three owners in this thread had their Houston combination pump fail: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...ed-How-to-test

Apparently replacing the combo pump requires special pliers. And the pump itself comes from Houston/franchise (doesn't appear to be a parts house item).

Personally I'd hate to be 1,000 miles from home, have my pump die, wait for Houston to send a replacement, then find special pliers to install it.

Low pressure pumps I provide are stock items at all parts houses. Pump screws into a carrier that rides in an OEM tank boot. If the ever pump dies, simply unscrew it and screw in a replacement. If you get the new pump at Autozone you can get a free replacement under my name and phone number (pumps come with lifetime warranty when I buy them).

Owners can of course use a Houston combo pump regulated down to 6 PSI, but I really don't see any advantage.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[kbrown84]

Bill,
Would you be willing to sell just a manifold? I've already got everything else...
If so, whats the going rate?

Thanks,

[content22207_2]

I should have one more intake manifold from the last batch I had welded up. Let me see exactly how many Byrne wants next month (I'm pretty sure it's three). Rich wants one. That should leave one left.

IIRC they cost me right around $500 to make. I posted the cost earlier in this thread -- try around January-February.

Bill Robertson
#5939