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Thread: Carb Conversion "Kits" ETA March-April 2016

  1. #121
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    With Duke Power pouring coal ash into all our rivers, I think the EPA has bigger concerns.

    If deviating from stock configuration poses a moral dilemma, by all means do not convert your car to carburetion. That certainly is a consideration to factor, alongside carburetion's other pros and cons.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    You're a slam-dunk case, Bill. You don't have an LLC, you don't have any warning statements, and best of all you've apparently committed fraud with that emissions label. Corporations are difficult to fight, but people like you are not. Your arrogant thinking might just cost you. You're the perfect resume padding for some ambitious prosecutor's resume.

    It isn't a moral dilemma Bill, it's a legal one. And you can start this entire thing up once again where you make installing a carburetor into some sort of quasi-political statement in order to get people to rally behind you once again. But of all the "pros and cons" of this, have you ever bothered to tell anyone the potential legal ramifications? Or the environmental ones? Or how when touting carburetion's superiority over K-Jetronic, the fact that it probably never worked for you because you really didn't know how to make it work? Was that apart of your disclosure?
    Robert

    People they come together, people they fall apart...

  2. #122
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2016

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    I have assisted 18 owners to date. Only two of them are complaining, one of whom extols his carburetor and posts video that shows it working normally (problems he has with me are personal, not carb related).

    Only one person is having problems, which most likely are self induced (this owner was running more than 20 volts through his electrical system when I first met him, yet stubbornly refuses to swap out what may well be a damaged ignition ECU. Pickup coil in the distributor could also be damaged. You can't run 20 plus volts though your electrical system without *SOME* repercussions).

    By the numbers I have a 95% success rate.

    In school they would give me an "A".

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  3. #123
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    I rebuild carburetors that were previously installed on Ford or AMC automobiles:
    And those carburetors were approved for installation from the factory in accordance with existing Federal regulations for those specific applications. Yours are not, and people need to be aware of that.


    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    I assure you: I did not invent carburetion, nor am I the first person ever to work with it.
    No, but the intallation onto this specific application has not been properly documented at all. And that needs to happen, which you still refuse to do. I'm guessing because you perhaps want to ensure you're to sole source for information on this conversion process?


    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    I make intake manifolds, same as Edelbrock and Weiand. When you buy an Edelbrock intake manifold the thing shows up in a box. Edelbrock assumes you know how to bolt it on.

    Same with the carb. When you buy a rebuilt carb from Champion or Nation Rebuilders, it shows up in a box. They assume you know how to bolt it on.
    Because there is an existing Workshop Manual already in print for that car that gives the instructions on how to install said manifolds. And with carbs you do have documentation on what cables to attach, and how to set up the linkage, etc. You have none of this. So again, you have no documentation here, and your comparison is invalid.


    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    On the old .com you complained very loudly that I wasn't providing step by step illustrated instructions. That's not my target audience. If you don't know how to bolt down an intake manifold, please don't buy anything from me.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    And is it any wonder? You've got two people so far who claim to be unhappy with your product. And what do we tell people when they have difficulty with a product they purchased from a vendor? We tell them to go back to the vendor. And yet here you are, in the role of a Vendor, and you're refusing the help people. That isn't going to make the carburetion conversion procedures standard. In order for that to happen, there needs to be permanent, public documentation so that people can proceed with this without your help. From the installation & tuning to the fabrication of manifolds. You clearly do not want that. Because if is was a zero-profit operation for you, why do you insist upon never letting go?

    Now you know just as well as I do that the problem here isn't simply bolting parts on. You have all of these other concerns for vacuum hoses, environmental controls, transmission kickdown switches, emissions laws, etc. Things that would normally be in a Workshop Manual, but are not because such things do not exist. That is a concern for the community. If Chad and Lou have problems with their carbs, you should just be able to tell them to read their manuals and be done with it. But they don't seem to have that option, do they?

    Why aren't more people complaining? I dunno. Maybe you did a good job. Maybe they're afraid of you since you've set yourself up as their only lifeline if they have problems. Because where else are they going to turn? I mean, you can talk all you want about how any mechanic *should* be able to work on a carburetor with no problem. But hell, we have people with bone-stock cars that get turned away from shops as it is. Where are these people supposed to turn for help once you inevitably become unavailable to them?
    Robert

    People they come together, people they fall apart...

  4. #124
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2016

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    Carb conversions are 1-2 weeks away from completion.

    If you do not know what you are doing, please do not buy one.

    If you know what you are doing, PM me to discuss payment, shipping, etc.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  5. #125
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2016

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    Just so everyone's clear: you can run evaporative emissions with a carburetor if you want. OEM manufacturers did it throughout the late 70's/early 80's.

    Most of us carb guys throw the charcoal canister away, but that's a choice, not a necessity. I provide a charcoal canister blockoff plate, but an owner doesn't have to use it -- it's an option.

    If an owner wants to plumb the charcoal canister into his carb, just tee into the spark advance line (ported vacuum) for the purge signal, and into the PCV line (manifold vacuum) for canister evacuation.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  6. #126
    Bad Apple Lou and "Boo"'s Avatar
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    Very useful info, I may revert to my charcoal canister someday now that I know how to hook it up.

    Thanks Bill !
    I know with the Fiero swap it can be hooked up if there's any raw fuel fume smell but I didn't hook mine up on that either.
    I haven't noticed any raw fuel smells in or around either car though.

    I've always said Bill does have great mechanical knowledge and ingenuity.
    Lou and "Boo"- The man you love to hate.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Boo" VIN 5835
    Born October 1981 - Brought back to life December 2011
    "Fastest naturally aspirated PRV" Delorean
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Blue" - 1985 Fiero GT
    3800sc series 2

  7. #127
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    This is getting ridiculous.

    You act as if I invented carburetion, or as if I was the first person ever to put a carburetor on a car.

    I make intake manifolds, same as Edelbrock and Weiand. When you buy an Edelbrock intake manifold the thing shows up in a box. Edelbrock assumes you know how to bolt it on.

    Same with the carb. When you buy a rebuilt carb from Champion or Nation Rebuilders, it shows up in a box. They assume you know how to bolt it on.

    On the old .com you complained very loudly that I wasn't providing step by step illustrated instructions. That's not my target audience. If you don't know how to bolt down an intake manifold, please don't buy anything from me.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    Haha agreed.

    There are plenty of resources out there to help people learn how to tune a carburetor. If someone is putting a carburetor on their car, common sense would say to learn how to operate and adjust it properly. Figuring out the vacuum hose routing for a carburetor shouldn't be difficult either.

    Assuming the parts are functioning correctly, if you can't bolt down an intake manifold, bolt on the carb, and set the idle mixture and speed, you probably shouldn't be running a carburetor (or should research and figure out how ).
    Last edited by dmruschell; 03-15-2016 at 03:26 AM.
    -Derrin

    5786: DPI cams and cat-less exhaust, galvanized and powder coated manual frame for a proper 5-speed conversion

    3196 - My wife's DeLorean: DMCH new build, DPI rebuilt engine with performance cams and exhaust

    1956 Oldsmobile Super 88
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  8. #128
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmruschell View Post
    Figuring out the vacuum hose routing for a carburetor shouldn't be difficult either.
    3 or 4 hoses in my installations:
    - 3/8" hose: manifold vacuum to the HVAC and brake booster tee
    - 5/16" hose: from PCV valve
    - 3/16" hose: ported vacuum to spark advance
    Automatics only:
    - 3/16" hose: manifold vacuum to the modulator valve

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  9. #129
    Bad Apple Lou and "Boo"'s Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmruschell View Post
    Haha agreed.

    There are plenty of resources out there to help people learn how to tune a carburetor. If someone is putting a carburetor on their car, common sense would say to learn how to operate and adjust it properly. Figuring out the vacuum hose routing for a carburetor shouldn't be difficult either.

    Assuming the parts are functioning correctly, if you can't bolt down an intake manifold, bolt on the carb, and set the idle mixture and speed, you probably shouldn't be running a carburetor (or should research and figure out how ).

    Agreed, and lesson learned...

    Educate yourselves people ,,, I didn't and I'm paying the price because I had a falling apart with Bill. It was my fault too for getting out of hand and I have apologized to Bill but I understand he is done with me. And I have to respect that.

    That's what my posts are all about here. An honest and fair education.
    If I knew how to get the carb tuned or working correctly, none of this would have happened.

    "If woody went straight to the police, none of this would have happened." <- I love that woody woodpecker episode.
    Last edited by Lou and "Boo"; 03-15-2016 at 10:16 AM.
    Lou and "Boo"- The man you love to hate.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Boo" VIN 5835
    Born October 1981 - Brought back to life December 2011
    "Fastest naturally aspirated PRV" Delorean
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Blue" - 1985 Fiero GT
    3800sc series 2

  10. #130
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    2,497

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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    I provide a charcoal canister blockoff plate, but an owner doesn't have to use it -- it's an option.
    If you're speaking of a "block-off plate" to just leaving the canister connected without any way to purge itself, that is HIGHLY dangerous.

    Fuel tanks build pressure up from residual heat (usually exhaust lines, but in our cases the water pipes next to the tank do quite nicely), and that pressure has to have somewhere to go. Meaning it will leak out through either the gas cap, or the fuel sending unit. Best of all will be the fact that thanks to the pressure differential, if you use a pickup hose with the pump it's going to collapse. Which leads to noisy fuel pumps, low fuel pressure, and best of all a shortened lifespan of that pump since it's being starved so bad. Worst of all will be those leaking gas fumes which are as much of a danger in a garage with a furnace or a water heater as they are for someone driving when those fumes all get sucked into the engine compartment.

    Going over everything we've covered with this just being the latest of items, are you really making everyone aware of the hazards & risks involved with your kits?
    Robert

    People they come together, people they fall apart...

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